Slightly bent model 65-2 ejector rod

[stonebuster]

A "new to me" Model 65-2 has a very small ejector rod wobble when I spin the cylinder above a straight edge. The B/C gap is tighter to the top of the barrel on two chambers noticeably when held up to a light. Because it also had some end shake I installed a .003 cylinder end shake shim/bearing which helped both issues but still tighter to the top of barrel on two chambers. The cylinder has always opened and closed easily and the cylinder release pin in recoil shield lines up with the ejector rod. Could this be caused by the slightly bent ejector rod?

 

[Protocall_Design]

It's possible, but more likely the cylinder face is out of square. Many come that way from the factory, and have for 70 years that I know of.

 

[gwpercle]

Considering the modifications you have already made , if the M65 shoots nice groups and ejects easily ... I would " Leave Well Enough Alone " and just enjoy the revolver as is .

I have a M64 with a very slightly out of square cylinder face , like your's , but it will put 20 rounds of 38 special wadcutter handloads into one 1 1/2" ragged hole at 25 yards ...( from a rest...I'm +70 yrs old) ...
I'm leaving well enough alone !

How does your M65 shoot ?
Gary

 

[stonebuster]

I agree with you but figured I'd ask anyway. It shoots great and my shooting doesn't do it justice but I'll work on getting better. I'm 73 myself and a little more shaky now. I've got a Model 64-5 3" to keep the Model 65-2 3" company. Great guns.

 

[Imissedagain]

Sounds like this thread needs a tune.
Shaky and Blind, A Six Gun Lullaby.
The B side.... Red Dot Fever.

 

[gwpercle]

Sounds like this thread needs a tune.
Shaky and Blind, A Six Gun Lullaby.
The B side.... Red Dot Fever.

I reckon so ... And let me add ...

My favorite tune of late ... "Shake , Rattle and Roll " !

All Good ones !
Gary

 

[Babysitr]

I can relate to all of this!. Wonder why?

 

[WR Moore]

Once upon a time I was working on a model 57 and going nuts trying to set various specs. Finally started measuring and found the front cylinder face was out of square by 0.007 inches. I'd already aligned a yoke that was visibly off. Back to the factory. Wish I'd noticed that before I did all the work on the yoke, I'd have griped that too.

 

[Alk8944]

Protocol Design is absolutely correct about S&W cylinders. I have worked on many over the past 60+ years and .001"-.002" out of square is pretty much normal, sometimes just a bit more. The .007 that W R Moore cites is an extreme, I have never seen one that far out. This is really easy to check on your own gun just by checking the barrel-cylinder gap with feeler gauges as you rotate the cylinder. Be aware the barrel is rarely perfectly square either!

 

[Vtgw938]

Put a combination of shims in until it starts to bind and see if feels the same on all chambers or binds up more on a couple.

 

[stonebuster]

Protocol Design is absolutely correct about S&W cylinders. I have worked on many over the past 60+ years and .001"-.002" out of square is pretty much normal, sometimes just a bit more. The .007 that W R Moore cites is an extreme, I have never seen one that far out. This is really easy to check on your own gun just by checking the barrel-cylinder gap with feeler gauges as you rotate the cylinder. Be aware the barrel is rarely perfectly square either!

Tightest chamber b/c gap is .005 pushed back and I can't quite get a .0015 in pushed forward. That's after installing .003 cylinder end shake shim. The gap looks normal at the bottom of barrel but barely any space at the top. After shooting 100 rounds it starts to wear the carbon build up off the cylinder face at the top of the two tightest chambers. I guess I could add another shim or just leave it alone.

 

[chief38]

Not to mention that MOST of the barrel ends (forcing cone end) are usually never 100% flat! Some are better than others, but can't remember seeing a perfect one on decades!

ER's are easily straightened out, however if it operates smoothly and there is no binding or excess wear on it from rubbing against metal, best off leaving it alone. If it is causing rubbing or has hesitation in movement, remove it and straighten it out. You can use a known perfectly flat surface like a piece of thick glass to roll it and see where it's off and has to be corrected.

Remember, if you do remove the ER, use empty cases in at least 3 holes. The threads on your model should be left handed (opposite of conventional threads).