Slightly bulged 357 cases?

[DennisE]

I notice that most if not all of my 1000s of 357 brass have a slight buldge about a 1/4" or so above the base. I never noticed this before cause I reload it for my S&W revolvers and they slip in and out of the cylinder and fire with no problems. They also slip in and out of my Wilson 357 case gauge with no problem.

This week I tried loading them in a Ruger GP100 357 and they won't slip into the chamber.'

Q1 Does Ruger have tighter chamber dimensions?
Q2 Any idea why my Hornady dies don't resize the brass so it works in the GP100?
Q3 The bulge where observable is very slight and they work fine in my Smiths. Do I have a reloading problem or a Ruger problem?
Q4 If I have a reloading problem, what do I do to solve it?

Thanks! Help!

 

[ontargetagain]

It might simply be how far your resizing die reaches, you may or may not have a little more room to adjust to get complete coverage?
Karl

 

[mikld]

Any time there is a fit problem, measure! Measure the OD of your handloads in a few places to see where and how much they are bulged. Then you can compare either to SAAMI specs or factory ammo or handloads that fit the Ruger...

 

[LoboGunLeather]

I would be surprised to find a fired .357 magnum case without some body expansion as you have described. Perfectly normal behavior for cartridge brass used in higher pressure loadings. Cartridge cases always expand to fill the chamber dimensions during the firing cycle; upon completion of the firing cycle the pressure drops and cartridge cases will spring back somewhat (which will vary considerable depending on chamber dimensions, the brass in use, and relative pressures of the loads used).

Every revolver is different, and every chamber of every cylinder is different; some will simply allow greater expansion of the cartridge cases than others. One of the first steps in reloading ammunition is resizing the cases, and that brings in other factors. Not all reloading dies are machined or finished to the same exact dimensions. Not every reloading press provides full ram travel without some springing within the frame, affecting relative positions of the die and shell holder under pressure. Not every shell holder is machined to the same dimensions.

For the past 40 years or so most reloaders of straight-wall cases (such as the .357) have been using tungsten carbide sizer dies, which feature a tapered entryway (of varying dimensions among the many makers and production runs) with an annular ring of tungsten carbide inserted to do the actual resizing (sans lubrication). The exact design, machining, finishing, and final dimensions of your die will provide slightly different results than just about any other die.

Finally, the process of resizing fired cartridges will always involve some movement of the metal making up the cartridge case, with the usual result that case metal is moved backward toward the case head during the pressures of resizing. Multiple uses of the brass can, over time, result in measurable changes in case dimensions caused by the movement of metal.

From the OP's description I can say with little doubt that one or more of the above factors are at play within his combination of revolver, brass, and reloading equipment. Whether the solution will be found in a change of cartridge cases, a change of sizing die and/or shell holder, a change of reloading press, or changes of the revolver's chamber dimensions remains to be determined by careful experimentation. I would recommend the following, in order:
1. try a couple hundred new cartridge cases.
2. try another resizing die and shell holder (ask a friend or two).
3. try another reloading press (ask a friend or two).
4. finally, if nothing else seems to provide satisfactory results, try a gunsmith experienced with revolvers for possible chamber reaming.

 

[DennisE]

One more piece to the puzzle, factory 357 rounds drop into the cylinder ok but are difficult to extract after firing.

 

[Nevada Ed]

If the factory cases are extracting hard with a new "Cleaned chamber"........
it means that your revolvers chamber is a little on the large size,
letting the case to expand more than it should.

If you can drop your sizing die down 1/8" more or to its maximum
where it is just off the shell holder, you might help the problem.

Otherwise you will need to shoot lighter loads.......
to keep the expansion to a minimum.

 

[BruceM]

If you can drop your sizing die down 1/8" more or to its maximum where it is just off the shell holder, you might help the problem.

If the sizing die is steel, it should already be down on the shell holder. If carbide, there should be a gap between the die and shellholder about the thickness of a playing card. That gap is there to prevent the carbide insert from cracking. I don't know where 1/8" is coming from.

As mentioned, it's not unusual for there to be a slight bulge in the area you mention AFTER resizing. If your resized cases fit in your Smith revolvers and a case gage, I'd say it's time for the gun to go back to Ruger. If factory ammo will fit satisfactorily in the Ruger but not reloads with brass which fits your other revolvers and the case gage, Ruger may not remedy the situation. In that case, it's time to decide if a trip to a gunsmith is in order or the gun goes down the road.

From what you've said, Ruger gets the nod first. I never had this type of issue with the Ruger I had so the chambers may be snug on your gun and they'll ream them out or replace the cylinder.

Bruce

 

[ageingstudent]

I notice that most if not all of my 1000s of 357 brass have a slight buldge about a 1/4" or so above the base. I never noticed this before cause I reload it for my S&W revolvers and they slip in and out of the cylinder and fire with no problems. They also slip in and out of my Wilson 357 case gauge with no problem.

This week I tried loading them in a Ruger GP100 357 and they won't slip into the chamber.'

Q1 Does Ruger have tighter chamber dimensions?
Q2 Any idea why my Hornady dies don't resize the brass so it works in the GP100?
Q3 The bulge where observable is very slight and they work fine in my Smiths. Do I have a reloading problem or a Ruger problem?
Q4 If I have a reloading problem, what do I do to solve it?

Thanks! Help!

A couple things to check...

I know you say you have a bulge in the .357 brass, but have you fired a lot of .38 in the GP? A carbon ring from shooting .38 will hold up a .357 case about 1/4" from chambering. I'm looking at easiest issues first not trying to be a jerk lol.

Is all the brass you are shooting in your Ruger all fired in one of your Smiths first?

Try a box of factory in your GP, then resize them and see if the sized empty cases fit. If they fit reload that box making sure your dies are adjusted properly. If that works then fire them in a Smith and reload and try them in the GP.

If they don't fit and your dies are adjusted properly check the dimensions on your die vs. Your chambers on the Ruger before you send the gun back.

You say it's a steel sizing die? How old? It might be getting a little long in the tooth.

I would measure everything like 3 times and make sure of all adjustments being correct before sending the gun to Ruger or a gunsmith.

 

[muddocktor]

One more piece to the puzzle, factory 357 rounds drop into the cylinder ok but are difficult to extract after firing.

This statement right here is telling me that you have a problem with the chambers on that Ruger. Whether it is buildup from firing a bunch of 38 Special in it and making a carbon ring or maybe a rough finish on the chamber walls I can't tell. But if you are having extraction problems with factory ammo, then the problem is definitely with that Ruger.

 

[AlHunt]

I would suggest firing a few factory rounds in the Ruger, resize and see if they drop back into the Ruger. I'm thinking the Ruger may have a chamber on the smaller end of whatever spec there is and the Smith may be on the looser end of the spec.

Also, maybe all your brass has just been reloaded multiple times and doesn't squeeze back to factory spec and stay there.

 

[H Richard]

You might try a different brand of resizing die, either RCBS or Redding. I have no love for any of the Hornady reloading equipment.

 

[bigedp51]

One more piece to the puzzle, factory 357 rounds drop into the cylinder ok but are difficult to extract after firing.

Did you fire .38 Specials in this .357? You may have a carbon ring in the chamber or a rough chamber.

Like stated above chambers and dies vary in size. I have a standard Lee full length .223 die that reduces the case diameter and pushes the shoulder back more than my RCBS .223 small base die.

I also have RCBS carbide 357 dies from 1976 and new Lee 357 carbide dies. And the newer Lee dies reduce the case diameter less and do not over size the base of the case.

I would try another brand of sizing die and the Lee die would be the cheapest.

 

[BruceM]

And the newer Lee dies reduce the case diameter less and do not over size the base of the case.

Just a question for my information; how do you oversize the base of a straight walled pistol case such as a .357 magnum? Reducing the case diameter a smidge more is usually NOT a bad thing in a magnum pistol case as long as the expander is the correct diameter for the bullets you are using.

For me, Lee dies would be my last choice regardless of price considerations but it's a personal thing as much as anything else.

Bruce

 

[buck460XVR]

New factory brass hard to extract after firing tells me you either have dirty chambers, scored chambers or bulged chambers. They also could be excessively tight, but I would think most factory ammo would still be mild enough that extraction would be easy.

 

[H Richard]

When it comes to reloading equipment, "cheapest" isn't always the best. Think long term.

 

[Joed49]

You are not running the .357 brass far enough into the sizing die. Tell me you aren't using the supplied washer on the sizing die.

Had a friend that thought the washer should always be used with .357 brass. Problem is if you use it on the sizing die it doesn't size the whole case leaving the bulge.

 

[Nevada Ed]

BruceM;
per post #6

The 1/8" came from when I started reloading revolvers.
Being new at the game, I had a 1/8" clearance from the die when the ram was fully raised.
I know better now and also did the "Washer thing".

Some times one needs to read the instruction twice, back in the old days.
Internet......... what's that ?? !!

Make mistakes..........
Who, me ??

Later.

 

[bigedp51]

Just a question for my information; how do you oversize the base of a straight walled pistol case such as a .357 magnum? Reducing the case diameter a smidge more is usually NOT a bad thing in a magnum pistol case as long as the expander is the correct diameter for the bullets you are using.

For me, Lee dies would be my last choice regardless of price considerations but it's a personal thing as much as anything else.

Bruce

If the case is wasp waisted after sizing, meaning sized smaller than the base diameter of the case then its over resized.

I had this problem with a .357 RCBS carbide die made in 1976 and switched to a standard die and lubed the cases.

Chambers and dies vary in size and as another example I have a standard .223 Lee full length die that resizes the cases smaller in diameter than my RCBS small base die does.

And as far as you not liking Lee dies we are talking pistol ammunition here and not long range rifle ammunition. My preferred rifle dies are Forster full length benchrest dies because they produce very concentric cases with very little to no neck runout.

Look at the link below and the charts for neck diameter as another example.
Are Your Sizing Dies Overworking Your Rifle Brass? - MassReloading

 

[rwsmith]

Depending on when they change the tooling.....

Depending on wear on the tools and when they change them. One chamber on my 686 is a little tighter than the others, if a round won't drop right in I put it in another hole. I think the right solution is to get the chamber reamed/polished a little larger IF the ammo proves to be within specs. You may want to try another die, maybe yours is sized slightly large.


If the die is not getting the swelled part sized, you need a new die.

A cartidge gauge is a good thing to have but all guns are a little different.

 

[bigedp51]

A cartidge gauge is a good thing to have but all guns are a little different.

And not all case gauges are made the same and do not measure case diameter like you would assume. And many are only good for checking cartridge headspace and trim length and not case diameter.

Below a Wilson, Dillon and JP Enterprise .223 case gauge. I reversed the cases and put then in backwards to check the case gauge diameter. As you can see the Wilson and Dillon are at maximum SAAMI diameter and the JP Enterprise gauge is closer to minimum SAAMI diameter. I also swapped the cases around between gauges and measured their rim diameter. So its not a dinged rim on the right hand case holding it higher.

And like you have all read and been told before your chamber is your best gauge.