Kernel Crittenden
US Veteran, Absent Comrade
Read my first post. I specifically said not to take anything apart. There's no need at this point. Just remove the sideplate and clean it properly.
Smith and Wesson 686 Range Report
- Thread starter le_butters
- Start date
OP
le_butters
Member
I miss read, I apologize. I'm not a fan of wd40 on my guns. I have taken a few guns in to the shop to get a detailed cleaning. I always ask what they use for cleaning solvent and lube.
I don't mind paying a gun smith to look over and give my gun a deep clean. This is the first used gun I've ever bought so I feel even better having a smith take a look at it.
I do appreciate the advice and I see where you are coming from. I just want the smith to give it bath and a check up.
There's a little more to it than that. And putting it back together has even a couple more steps . . .
Kernel Crittenden
US Veteran, Absent Comrade
Reading comprehension isn't your strong suit. I didn't say to lube it with WD-40. FLUSH out the crud with WD-40. Soak it in WD-40 to dissolve the varnish. It's very good at those two things. If you don't like WD-40 you can use kerosene. Hint: they're 99% the same thing. Use unicorn tears if that's your preference.
Lube with something else. I like Breakfree CLP, but there are dozens of good lubes on the market.
You may want to check to assure there is no shim or washer under the strain screw.
OP
le_butters
Member
You miss read mine. I don't like wd40 on my firearms, period.
If I took every part out I still wouldn't use wd40. I understand it's properties and what it's suppose to do. But I'm not a fan of it. I understand you are saying to spray then lube. My issue with it is, you spray the gun with wd40 some gets under the components and it doesn't get out of there. It gets all gummy and you start having issues. You can use an air compressor and blow out everything but with out taking every part out it will still leave a small amount. The lube would probably keep the gun running but just more a hassle to me.
I use pro shot cleaner and lube. I'll run a dry rag first get everything I can. Then run a rag with cleaner. Once it's clean I hit it with a dry rag. Then I'll use slip2000 on rails or anything that sees alot of movement. I won't play with internals unless I know what I'm doing.
I've only done one complete tear down on a mossberg mkii and did the same thing. It shoots like a dream.
I don't like getting in to online arguments. We all do things our own way, and that's fine. We all have our own products we like and don't. Nothing wrong with that.
OP
le_butters
Member
There wasn't. The strain screw was very loose. I tightened it up and that was that. Once I took the sideplate off and saw how dirty it was I gave it to a gun smith and had him do a complete tear down. He checked everything and then cleaned and lubed it. Just got it back before I went on shift.
I will take the side plate off later and check it out. The gun smith told me everything was in tip top shape. He said I did good.
Coastie762
US Veteran
Sounds like you have it figured out. Easy fixes are always the best. Please be sure to let us know how it works when you get it to the range!
Kernel Crittenden
US Veteran, Absent Comrade
I get it. It's like showing Dracula the cross. Just being in the same room with it, bad things will happen.
Redlegvzv
Member
Sounds like $25 for the gunsmith was money well spent. Congrats on the new revolver.
Lou_the_welder
Member
Hey Kernel. Im a mechanic. I had a pair of pliers in a plastic bucket and sprayed it with wd-40. The pliers WERE stainless steel. They turned orange. Rust.I get it. It's like showing Dracula the cross. Just being in the same room with it, bad things will happen.
While wd40 is good for blasting- i would never recommend on a firearm. I would use rem-oil over it. ....and clp over rem oil usw.
