Smith and Wesson post war M&p value

Gary, it may have very well received two refinishes at Smith & Wesson. But my observation is that whenever the last finish was done on it, it wasn't by the factory. The polishing is too rough and overdone and frankly it doesn't look very professional. The stamp is R-S which I believe stands for "refinish standard." If I remember correctly, that was for a brush blue finish and R-B or a large B was for a bright finish.

Guy
 
S8299##

On my list is S8290xx which shipped in 7/46. I still believe that $250 is not a bad price for any functional M&P despite other opinions to the contrary. I would not spend a penny to refinish it.

BTW, I have an acquaintance who had a very similar postwar M&P, except it was a civilian SV-series. The blued finish was fairly good, but it had a replacement barrel. He recently sold it for $350.
 
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Few more pix in some bad lighting after work. I might see if anyone is interested locally as id feel guilty giving it the cold blue treatment
 

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While the magna stocks in your pics will work, they are newer than the gun. Correct ones would have a diamond in the center of the panels. No big deal, just letting you know.

Also, the backstrap is marked with MDC followed by a number. The letters would indicate it was once owned by ?? Department of Corrections. The number would have been the rack number of the revolver.
 
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Cool, I was wondering about that marking thank you and everyone else for the info

QUOTE=kscharlie;140143600]While the magna stocks in your pics will work, they are newer than the gun. Correct ones would have a diamond in the center of the panels. No big deal, just letting you know.

Also, the backstrap is marked with MDC followed by a number. The letters would indicate it was once owned by ?? Department of Corrections. The number would have been the rack number of the revolver.[/QUOTE]
 
Sorry, I'm still not happy about the pictures to come to a sound final judgment :)

But I see nothing that looks so bad it would justify a refinish. Thr gun has obviously seen a lot of service since the refinish. And the agency stamp adds a bit of interest.
 
Cool, I was wondering about that marking thank you and everyone else for the info.

It was not unusual for various LE agencies, etc. to add a property stamp on the butt or backstrap. A couple of months ago I found a Model 15 with a "DPD" stamped on the butt. The prevailing opinion here was that it likely meant Dallas Police Department. But it could also have been some other city with a name beginning in D. In your case the state might be Maryland, Missouri, Minnesota, etc. It's a situation where the opinion of a cop gun collector could be helpful.
 
I might see if anyone is interested locally as id feel guilty giving it the cold blue treatment

If you wish to pass that revolver along to someone else it certainly is your prerogative. However , if you are interested in trying some DIY bluing you have the ideal subject to try it out on. You really can't hurt that M&P , as long as you are reasonable and well informed in what you do to it.

A while back I bought a $200 model 15 just to have a no risk "learn to work on it" gun. Money well spent.
 
this was my thoughts as well

If you wish to pass that revolver along to someone else it certainly is your prerogative. However , if you are interested in trying some DIY bluing you have the ideal subject to try it out on. You really can't hurt that M&P , as long as you are reasonable and well informed in what you do to it.

A while back I bought a $200 model 15 just to have a no risk "learn to work on it" gun. Money well spent.
 
I mean, bad finish, no finish, good finish, it is still a nice revolver. I would think about refinishing it too. And putting some period correct stocks on. It would make for a fantastic range gun. And if it works well a good home defense gun. Tapered barrels for the win.
 
I see that Dura Coat has a finish that kind of looks like bluing now. Has any one tried it? I have a Hand Ejector that left the factory in 1913-14 with no finish left on it. Been thinking about trying it as the mechanical condition is spot on.


PS: OK to move to another forum if this not OK here.
 
I like weapons with old property markings and enough wear that I do not agonize over how much they depreciate with each round fired. If I needed a utility .38 I would consider this piece a far better value than the currently manufactured Model 10.

I would consider any money spent on refinishing as madness. I agree the rubber handles should go, but instead of worrying about 'correct' grips I'd look for low priced and pimpy, such as plastic stag or fake ivory with a raised carving of a cow.
 
I would have offered $200 but cheerfully paid $250 if it's mechanically sound with a good bore and charge holes.

I would clean it up, maybe do a little cold blue touchup. Or not. Then wax it and shoot the hell out of it.
 
This here is a fine example of : You never quite know which gun is going to spur a lengthy discussion. Interesting phenomenon.
 
I tried two shades of durablue. It works. Looks fake. That revolver has perfect patina/tells a story. Leave it as is and enjoy it...
 
I just noticed the serial number on the rear cylinder picture and think I see 329XXX? If so, the gun is much earlier than 1948 and probably 1922 ship date. If the barrel has a diamond or rectangle stamped on the bottom flat, it was replaced and the ejector rod knob was updated t fit the replacement barrel groove?

A pre-war law enforcement revolver is worth more than $250 and one in good working order would sell easily for $300 or more if the initials were identified.

The only serial number option for these tired eyes is 829XXX, which would have shipped from the factory in 1941 era.
 
Sorry, I'm still not happy about the pictures to come to a sound final judgment :)

...OP...you got it out into the sunlight...but placing it on that white background forced your camera to under expose it...

...try a gray or beige background next time...
 
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