SMITH & WESSON 38 SPECIAL

[BRUCE A. HOFER]

TO WHOM THIS MAY CONCERN---I AM NEW TO THIS FORUM SO PLEASE BEAR WITH ME. MY FRIEND HAS A S&W 38 SPECIAL---FOUR INCH BARREL---MODEL 12-2---SERIAL NUMBER D522930---THAT I AM COSIDERING BUYING. I WOULD LIKE TO HAVE ANY AND ALL INFORMATION YOU MIGHT BE ABLE TO SUPPLY ME WITH, BECAUSE I AM NOT FAMILIAR WITH THIS PIECE AT ALL, IT IS FOUR HUNDRED MILES FROM ME,SO THIS IS ALL THE INFO I CAN GIVE YOU AT THIS TIME. THANK YOU FOR YOUR TIME, AND EFFORT, HOPE TO HEAR FROM YOU SOON---HOF

 

[Muley Gil]

Welcome to the Forum.

The M12 is an aluminum frame revolver and these are prone to cracking where the barrel screws into the frame. If you intend to shoot a lot, I would go with a steel frame revolver.

 

[peterdeb]

Welcome to the forum.
The Smith & Wesson (S&W) Model 12 is a .38 Special revolver on Smith & Wesson's medium-sized K-frame. It is an aluminum alloy-frame version of the Model 10 (also known as the M&P). It was made from 1953 to 1986 in both two-inch (50.8 mm), 17 ounces (482g) and four-inch (101.6 mm), 19 ounces (539g) configurations. Early models used an aluminum cylinder as well as frame. Personally, I prefer a steel revolver.

In addition to the help here, I would suggest doing some homework for yourself. Start with youtube videos on what to look for in a revolver, such as lock-up, pushoff etc. Good luck on your first S&W, it won't be your last.

 

[Truckman]

It might be helpful also to note that the grips which would ordinarily fit a steel framed K-frame will not work with this 12-2......Ben

 

[robertrwalsh]

Welcome aboard. PLEASE DON'T SHOUT. The revolver is probably from 1973 or 74. It is pretty much the same thing as a classic Model 10 Military and Police except that it has an alloy frame rather than a steel. It is what is called a K frame which is still around. This basic gun has been in continuous production since the late 19th century. The exact sub-model (i.e. 12-2, 12-3, 12-4 etc) can make a difference as far as buying grips for it if necessary as they changed at some time along the line. If it has been shot a lot you need to be aware of the possibility of cracking in the frame, which will make it unsafe to use. Some of them were made with a manual safety for the French government. If the box is still available the numbers on it will provide a lot of information.

 

[chief38]

I agree with Muley Gil's assessment above. The M12 is not truly the S&W you want for shooting. Basically the M12 is more of a Collector's piece. I'd get a vintage M15, Combat Masterpiece for your first Smith. IMHO it is one of the finest revolvers the Company has ever made - (at least pre-1995). Because the vintage model won't be under the Company's warranty, have someone who knows S&W's inside and out check it out BEFORE you buy it! We don't want to hear about how you got a "Bubba Special", hear your regrets and about how much you lost on it - this can all be avoided if it is checked out by someone in the know!

 

[alwslate]

Model 12-2 four hundred miles away? Simple answer. Buy a steel frame S&W a lot closer to home that you can examine or see good close up pics before you spend your money.

 

[rct269]

What these folks said!!

Light alloy frames make my teeth hurt! You've already heard about the pitfalls, so I'll just talk about things I know---fishing tackle.

Were you to go out on the street and ask folks why fishing tackle is made, it's a good bet most of them will tell you it's made to catch fish. I------and those who look a little deeper, every now and then at least, will tell you fishing tackle is made to sell to fishermen!!

So too it is that what I'll call novelty firearms are made to sell to folks who don't know any better. As it stands right here and right now, you know better!!

Ralph Tremaine

 

[gmborkovic]

Have not heard a price yet. If its a $200 gun, might take a chance.

 

[Oldengineer]

Seems to me that a 4 inch barrel model 12 is neither fish or fowl. It's not a concealable carry gun nor a working duty gun. I believe that there are many better options.

 

[ImprovedModel56Fan]

It is certainly true that at least a few aluminum frame revolvers have cracked. Many, many more have not. It is more fun to shoot a steel revolver than an aluminum. It is more fun to carry an aluminum revolver than a steel. Only with a 12-4 did S&W start making the 12s so that the same grips could be used. OTOH, some folks (including me) like the factory grips, with a Tyler grip adapter.

I have two 12s and like them.

You should not buy a 12 instead of a 10 unless you know why you are choosing the light 12 instead of the standard 10 made out of better metal.

 

[Alk8944]

Bruce,

A lot depends on what you want to do with the gun. If you want a shooter that will be used extensively then I would agree a steel framed revolver would be preferred.

It is true that Model 12 frames crack from time to time, just not as often as many will tell you. I have been gunsmithing for over 60 years and can tell you honestly that I have never seen a Model 12 with a cracked frame.

Frame cracking in the lunette, the area the barrel screws into, does happen to all Airweight revolvers more often than steel frame guns. This applies to all makes and models that have aluminum frames!!! Steel frames do crack too, infrequently.

A lot depends on your "friend". Is he truly a friend, or just an acquaintance! Will he agree to take back the gun and refund your money if you find a major fault on receipt? How far can you trust him? All these things should be considered on any used gun purchase. The price is also a real consideration. Anything around $400 is reasonable if the gun is sound.

If the gun is sound and you have good reasons to want this model you should be happy with a Model 12 4".

 

[Grayfox]

If you want a collectible, fine. If you want a shooter, go with something else.
I had a 2" Model 12 for a while. Nice gun, light, easy to carry, but the stories of the frame cracking worried me. So I sold it.
I'd have your friend open the cylinder and provide pictures of the frame below the barrel to check for a crack before driving 400 miles.

 

[SGT ROCK 11B]

Bruce, 400 miles to buy a 50 year old revolver that might be worth $400 (if it is not broken)?

 

[22hipower]

I have a 12-3 4 inch in 98+% condition. I bought it because I wanted an example of a Model 12 in nice condition. I will never shoot it but probably haven't shot half the guns I own so worrying about the aluminum frame isn't a concern for me. I paid $510 for this one ten years ago which probably was too much then and might be too much now for that matter. If you want a 38 Special to shoot, then as others have said there are better options. If you want it because you don't have a Model 12 or because a friend owns it or for whatever other reason then buy it. Good luck. And welcome to the Forum.

Jeff
SWCA #1457

 

[toddimusnimski]

Frame cracks

Hi Bruce! Google "S&W airweight frame crack" to see pics of the issue (there are multiple airweight models, not just the 12). Some think that the frame cracks occur when the barrel is over-torqued during factory installation, rather than through actual use. I can't speak to that belief, just mentioning the theory. If your friend can provide a good pic of the area in question it may save you a long drive.

I believe the risk is minimized if you plan to shoot it occasionally, using standard pressure .38 special loads. My M&P Airweight was shipped in 1957-ish and remains crack-free. No telling how much use it received before it came to our family in the 1980's.

Welcome to the Forum!

Todd

 

[two-bit cowboy]

Bruce, welcome aboard from ol' Wyo.

Here's the photo folks say you should see. It a .38 Chiefs Special
Airweight Model 37, but a cracked .38 M&P Model 12 would look
the same or at least similar.

Please take note of all the good information the others have
offered.

Best of luck with your decision.

 

[steelslaver]

Ir might crack or it might fire thousands of rounds. I would advise not using +P high pressure ammo. I have one, but I got it cheap because it was finish challenged.

 

[bobsguns]

Ir might crack or it might fire thousands of rounds. I would advise not using +P high pressure ammo. I have one, but I got it cheap because it was finish challenged.

Smith says any J-frame model with a dash is rated for +P ammo.

Having said that, I doubt anyone thinks a steady diet of it in an airweight frame would think it's a good idea, IMO. I know I wouldn't.

 

[shown50]

Learned my lesson on the Airweights/aluminum frame models. I had a late 80s model 37 with the dreaded cracked frame. Here's a picture to show you what to look for.