SMITH & WESSON 3RD MODEL HAND EJECTOR 32 LONG

Your .32 has the original nickel finish. If it were mine, I would locate a set of J frame Magna grips for shooting purposes. If you reload, it is possible to shoot a .32 Long cheaper than .22 Long Rifle.

I do reload. I actually got this pistol to shoot because I was given dies, wad cutter loaded ammo and about 1000 lead wad cutters from a friends wife after he died. Not interested in selling for that reason. Just fun to shoot with my boys. Just curious what the value is for the pistol if anyone has an idea.
 
For $200 that is certainly a good old revolver. I would personally prefer a worn nickel finish with character to the current Scintillating Stainless Eternity-Proof All-Weather Mud and Snow finishes.

My unsolicited suggestion: Use the original grips and get the proper size Tyler T grip (or from the other guy who makes them) as a compromise between authenticity and shootability.
 
I finally got the old girl put back together after a good cleaning and she definitely seems a bit smoother in function. Looking forward to loading up some rounds and taking my boys shooting. For us that’s walking out on the porch. ��
Also, I found two more matching serial numbers. One was on the bottom of the ejection star and the other on the back of the crane facing the front of the cylinder. Or is it the yoke? It’s the arm that swings out the cylinder. Anyway do these serial number locations sound correct? Any way to tell the exact date of manufacture? I’ve been told 1918 or 1919. Thanks again for the help.
 
The Smith & Wesson Historical Foundation will provide a "letter" for a fee that will give you the ship date. Records of manufacture are not available.


This is my S&W .32 Hand Ejector Third Model [pre-war] that was shipped well after the war ended.
 

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Yes current ammo is safe for your gun. The cyl wasn't heat treated until 1920 so I'd stick to the lowest factory ammo loads available.

The hard rubber Gutta Percher grips were standard and walnut with the gold plated medallions (until 1920) were optional. Grips broken like yours are from the gun being dropped. Butt always hits first.

Yes, Factory serial # stamp locations in that period are:

1. Gun butt - or fore strap on I frames/single shots with grips that cover the butt

2. Barrel - bottom of barrel or in extractor shroud
3. Yoke - on rear face only visible thru a chamber with a flashlight (except the .32 Model 1896 and no doubt a few others)

4. Extractor star - backside
5. Cylinder - rear face
6. Right stock only - on back; stamped, scratched or penciled depending on vintage and stock material. (except most post war target grips because individual fitting not required.)

Almost for sure from 1918 IMO.
 
Should I try to polish/shine up the original Nicole finish or is that a sin? There is a dull area of the buckle on the left side. Is this indeed a thinning of the Nicole so that polishing will only worsen and not shine up? Don’t want to ruin anything.
 
It won't hurt to use a good polish like Flitz or Simichrome. Any bare spots will only get brighter and be a closer match to the nickel.
DO NOT use them on the hammer and trigger. They will remove any case colors that you have left.
 
I appreciate the suggestions. Before I try anything I want to make sure my question is clearly understood. As can be seen in most pictures, the original nickel playing is in very good. It really only needs a good wiping down to remain shiny.
The focus of my question has to do with the left side of the frame, between the top Of the grip panel and The cylinder release catch. It looks dull as if worn by years of use.
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This is the main spot I’d like to try and polish so it matches the rest of the nickel if possible. I don’t think I’d Dod any polishing to the rest of the gun, unless it would only help it’s looks and not ruin its value. I just don’t know if this area of nickel will polish up as desired or is it already so thin that I’ll just polish away any remaining nickel down to bare metal? I don’t want to ruin its originality.
 

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Based on my experience with two old nickel guns from the 20's, the nickel will probably never "match" again. that's from years of use and holsters. but, that's what makes an old orig. gun cool. you got a good deal on it! I us mothers mag and aluminum polish on mine, go carefully! if the bore is good, that old dude will outlast us all and provide a lot of shooting fun....IMHO
 

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