smithing files ?

[Doc1500]

I would like to freshen or sharpen front strap on my 4006 TSW.
where could I purchase files to do so ?
suggestions , alternatives to perform this job ?

 

[WR Moore]

Brownells. Don't over do it. There's a fine line between sufficient grip and being abrasive if you do a lot of shooting.

 

[ken158]

Hogue Grip sleeve or Talon Grip wrap. Once you take a file to a gun... the value can drop like a rock.

 

[bigggbbruce]

Bubba.. NO..!!

 

[diyj98]

Just make sure you get the Smithing files and not the Rugering or Colting files. You need the right tools for the job.

 

[Doc1500]

Brownells. Don't over do it. There's a fine line between sufficient grip and being abrasive if you do a lot of shooting.

I completely understand over doing.
just looking for the proper size or # file . or tools to do the job.

Is there a specific name brand of files used by those that do checkering. HELP please !!!

I don't want to wrap the grip, just want to sharpen checkering.

 

[Doc1500]

Just make sure you get the Smithing files and not the Rugering or Colting files. You need the right tools for the job.

that's why i'm asking for names of specific name brand files to do this.

 

[Doc1500]

Bubba.. NO..!!

why...BUBBA..NO ?

 

[drgbike]

checering files

you need to determine what size the checkering is, how many per inch. for checker files. you can sharpen with a triangle file, one line at a time. Brownells, call them they can help you,very nice people. no such thing as smith, colt, ruger files they are spoofing you.

 

[Doc1500]

you need to determine what size the checkering is, how many per inch. for checker files. you can sharpen with a triangle file, one line at a time. Brownells, call them they can help you,very nice people. no such thing as smith, colt, ruger files they are spoofing you.

Ya sorry checkering files. thanks for reply . I'll get info from brownells. No joy here.
Yet. I'll PM bmcm.
Not happy with those playin games.

 

[lefty_jake]

I am sorry if people gave silly answers, or made jokes about "Bubba," but I will offer a serious thought about the concerns that may have lead to these jokes.

There are many tasks in gunsmithing which take a fair amount of practice. After you do a task the first time, you realize how to do it better the next time. After four or five attempts, your results are significantly improved, but still nowhere near the results of an experienced craftsman. Depending on the task, sometimes the results of the first few attempts are acceptable, and sometimes they are a real disappointment.

When someone asks about the tools to do a job, that is a hint that the next attempt will be their very first try. And this makes people concerned that the results of the first attempt will be unsatisfactory. This concern is amplified when the tool in question is a file, since files can do a lot of damage quickly in unpracticed hands. I think this is the underlying subject of the jokes that were made.

Note that I have no knowledge of your skills or experience, and I am not making any comment whether to sharpen your checkering. I just wanted to offer some perspective in a non-joking way.

I would also say that when someone wants to learn to do hand checkering, they are always advised to checker a piece of scrap steel before working on a gun frame. But your situation is different, so that advice might not apply. Good luck.

 

[Doc1500]

I am sorry if people gave silly answers, or made jokes about "Bubba," but I will offer a serious thought about the concerns that may have lead to these jokes.

There are many tasks in gunsmithing which take a fair amount of practice. After you do a task the first time, you realize how to do it better the next time. After four or five attempts, your results are significantly improved, but still nowhere near the results of an experienced craftsman. Depending on the task, sometimes the results of the first few attempts are acceptable, and sometimes they are a real disappointment.

When someone asks about the tools to do a job, that is a hint that the next attempt will be their very first try. And this makes people concerned that the results of the first attempt will be unsatisfactory. This concern is amplified when the tool in question is a file, since files can do a lot of damage quickly in unpracticed hands. I think this is the underlying subject of the jokes that were made.

Note that I have no knowledge of your skills or experience, and I am not making any comment whether to sharpen your checkering. I just wanted to offer some perspective in a non-joking way.

I would also say that when someone wants to learn to do hand checkering, they are always advised to checker a piece of scrap steel before working on a gun frame. But your situation is different, so that advice might not apply. Good luck.

Thank you very much I appreciate your honest comments.
I have been doing a little bit of research and yes I will probably get a piece of scrap stainless and do a little practice first. And I'm sorry if I was a little harsh on everybody but even the best experts at doing checkering did their
"first one" at some time or another.
Any other good suggestions are greatly appreciated.
I'm a pretty handy guy, and a MacGyver type.
My first try at polishing the sides of the slide on my 4006 TSW turned out pretty good. I know to go slow and take my time, also a bit OCD.

 

[mikerjf]

Also keep your file clean and unclogged - there are special brushes made for that, and you can also rub some chalk on it to help.

Anything trapped in the teeth will make an unclean cut.

 

[dfariswheel]

You might be better off to get a piece of mild ordinary steel bar stock with about the same curve as the pistols front strap to practice on, it's easier on files and much cheaper.

Just to point up the checkering you might also be better off buying a good triangular needle file and do one groove at a time.
A Swiss 4 to 6 inch needle file with a finer cut is about right. It needs to have very sharp edges.
This will take longer but is much less likely to damage the checkering since you can see the progress on the tips better.
One slip with a standard checkering file and you can ruin a wider area.
Also a top quality needle fine is a LOT cheaper then a checkering file.

Also buy or make a small handle for the file. This gives better control and is more comfortable.

A critical piece of equipment is a magnifier visor as well as a small well-padded vise to hold the frame, plus a good light.

When using any type of file, always keep clear in your mind that the idea is to sharpen the tips of the diamonds, NOT deepen or widen the grooves.
You also have to keep the grooves uniform not varying depths.

 

[Doc1500]

You might be better off to get a piece of mild ordinary steel bar stock with about the same curve as the pistols front strap to practice on, it's easier on files and much cheaper.

Just to point up the checkering you might also be better off buying a good triangular needle file and do one groove at a time.
A Swiss 4 to 6 inch needle file with a finer cut is about right. It needs to have very sharp edges.
This will take longer but is much less likely to damage the checkering since you can see the progress on the tips better.
One slip with a standard checkering file and you can ruin a wider area.
Also a top quality needle fine is a LOT cheaper then a checkering file.

Also buy or make a small handle for the file. This gives better control and is more comfortable.

A critical piece of equipment is a magnifier visor as well as a small well-padded vise to hold the frame, plus a good light.

When using any type of file, always keep clear in your mind that the idea is to sharpen the tips of the diamonds, NOT deepen or widen the grooves.
You also have to keep the grooves uniform not varying depths.

Wow thanks for the tips I certainly do appreciate it.
I figured since the files have their own task name on them like checkering that they would be more expensive, I also know there's others out on the market that will probably do the same job if not better without a label on it. From my experience anytime anybody puts a specific label on something the price goes way up.
I always think out of the box what can do the same job but less expensive.( doesn't always work that way but I try).
One time made an effort to do my own thing on a motorcycle, wanted LED lights. Any motorcycle site wanted $129.00 2" s in diameter looked on the website for trucks, found a set of lights that were brighter and bigger 4" for $29 a pair.

 

[2152hq]

Many 'Checkering Files' cut straight walled line furrows. Not diamond shaped pyramid shaped furrows as with wood checkering.

The resulting look is what you see on the top strap and bbl rib on the S&W Model 27.

You can sharpen those nicely cut parallel lines up to produce the diamonds commonly seen with the use of either a tri-square (3 sided file) which gives you 60* diamonds. Or you can use a small square file which will give you 90* diamonds.
On metal the 60* diamonds look the best IMO.

You can buy the Checkering Files in different lines per inch specs.
Brownells sells a few different choices.
Grobet offers a few more than Brownells does.
(Grobet calls them 'Florentine' cut files from the engraving style cut that they make when used criss-cross style.)

Brownells used to sell a 2-line file in each LPI spacing for use on curves and tight spaces. BUt I don't think they do anymore.

With all that,,surfaces already checkered like on the OP's pistol are most likely cast or impressed in place. I'm guessing as I am completely unfamiliar with the particular pistol.

I would not try to match up a multi line/cut checkering file with the existing checkering and expect it to perfectly recut and sharpen up whats there.

Even off by a couple .000 in spacing, the job will become a nightmare as the file can't quite sit down correctly in the bottom of multiple lines.
The same thing happens in wood checkering.

To sharpen the metal checkering up a bit, I would simply use a 3 sided needle file. Cut each line individually cleaning up whats there and sharpening them up as you desire.
It's no different again from what is done in wood checkering when recutting and existing checking pattern on a stock that just needs to be cleaned out and 'pointed up'.

If the 60* 3 sided file is too steep of an angle to match the original checkering present on the gun,,Try a square needle file for a 90* diamond peak.
Straight handled files are the most common and cheapest. Usually come in sets or can be bought separately.
You can buy whats called 'Rifflers',,in this case Needle File Rifflers'
No difference other than the file has a slight curve to it instead of being straight. It is very comfortable to use on the straight verticle lines on a grip strap for example. The slight curve allows your hand to be above the work and not dragging your knuckles on the work trying to file out those lines. Think a fork or spoon with or with out a curve in the tang,,which is easier to eat with.

Any of the single edge files you want one with a sharp edge where the sides come together. That edge will be the bottom of one of the checkering lines in the metal.
Some files have a blunt, rounded surface there and as a result, your checkering will look wide and somewhat crude when done up with that type of edge.
Look for the finer edge. I sometimes grind the teeth off of one of the flats entirely. That leaves the file with an absolute knife edge of file teeth on the opposing flat.
You are left with a 'safe' edge of course on the file and have to file both sides of each row of diamonds to shape them with this type of file and it takes a bit more effort. But I think it's worth it for the better looks of the work.

When done,,a very light wire wheel brushing over the recut area with a little oil applied first will burnish the new cuts and result in a nice smooth look.

Take your time and have fun with your project.

 

[Doc1500]

2152hq, thank you for taking the time to type up all that information I really do appreciate it.
I'm definitely not going to jump into this project willy-nilly, but will gather all information I can.
Buying the correct tools and taking my time is first priority.
I will be doing a good bit of practice before I even touch this pistol. I don't think my OCD would allow me to Jump Right In without practice.
Thanks again. Doc

 

[BMCM]

I did the math once... The machine cut checkering on those TSW guns in something like 17.3 lines per inch. You won't find a checkering file to fit that pattern. What you have to do is point up the checkering one line at a time with a three square needle file. I used Brownells bent 60° needle file for this in the past.
BROWNELLS THREE SQUARE 60^0 BENT NEEDLE FILES | Brownells

Be warned this is a very tedious process requiring lots of patience. And the result when you get it pointed up is very VERY aggressive. Somewhere between gripping a cheese grater, a cactus, and a porcupine

But should you find it too aggressive for your taste you can knock the points flat with a fine pillar file, say a 2 or 3 cut and wind up with a fine 'grenade' pattern that's not as harsh on your hands.

Those pics are of two different 4566TSW guns BTW.

Cheers
Bill

 

[Doc1500]

I did the math once... The machine cut checkering on those TSW guns in something like 17.3 lines per inch. You won't find a checkering file to fit that pattern. What you have to do is point up the checkering one line at a time with a three square needle file. I used Brownells bent 60° needle file for this in the past.
BROWNELLS THREE SQUARE 60^0 BENT NEEDLE FILES | Brownells

Be warned this is a very tedious process requiring lots of patience. And the result when you get it pointed up is very VERY aggressive. Somewhere between gripping a cheese grater, a cactus, and a porcupine

But should you find it too aggressive for your taste you can knock the points flat with a fine pillar file, say a 2 or 3 cut and wind up with a fine 'grenade' pattern that's not as harsh on your hands.

Those pics are of two different 4566TSW guns BTW.

Cheers
Bill

Thank you sir I appreciate that. I think I remember seeing that's thread that You resculpted one of your pistols and redid the checkering. Can you send me a link to that I never did finish the whole thread.

 

[DCC]

I would also say that when someone wants to learn to do hand checkering, they are always advised to checker a piece of scrap steel before working on a gun frame. But your situation is different, so that advice might not apply. Good Advice...

 

[WR Moore]

One item that none of us mentioned. I don't particularly like checkering on the front strap of handguns. This is because with checkering, where ever your hand lands, that's where it stays. This is not always a good thing when you consider drawing the firearm from a holster. Sometimes, you need for your hand to be able to move a bit to make sure you've achieved the proper hand placement.

So, be very, very cautious. My personal preference here, if you just have to do something, is horizontal serrations. Your hand can slide into proper position, but once you clamp down, the frame isn't moving.

 

[Doc1500]

Thanks guys, I really appreciate the do's and don'ts and what to watch out fors.