smoothng groved triggers

deadear dan

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I have a model 15-4 with a grooved trigger. I would like to polish down the trigger so it doesn't grip my finger in double action shooting. Not to remove the grooves, just slick it up. And how to touch up the color case hardened steel afterwards? thanks.
 
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It might be better to just get a replacement trigger so you can restore the 15-4 should you ever wish to sell it.
 
Taking the model 10 trigger to a buffing wheel was a standard mod for members of the NYPD Firearms & Tactics Unit when I was there. No touching up needed. Just go shoot the darn gun!

We'd also take off the sharp edges from the hammer and cylinder release latch as well. Made for a more practical and comfortable gun to shoot and carry.

Rich
 
I've had every grooved trigger I ever owned smoothed and radiused--I hate the serrations. But having the mechanical skills of a sea cucumber, I pay a smith to do it; and I've never bought guns as investments, but for using.
 
DR505, is giving you great advice. I always did the same modification when triggers were readily available but would hesitate to do it now. The same applies to cutting off hammer spurs.
 
As part of my Mdl 65 mods I smoothed and radiused the trigger. Fairly easy job with a sander and a buffing wheel. Don't know if I'd do it to a case-hardened part.
 
TAKE THE TRIGGER OFF THE GUN. then use a dremel tool with a sanding drum. Just whisk it by a couple passes. don't have to be polished smooth.


Charlie
 
I've had every grooved trigger I ever owned smoothed and radiused--I hate the serrations. ....

Ditto, except that I do it myself. I smooth out the serrations, radius the edges, and round the tip. The serrations are still visible but I don't feel them with my finger. It's a pretty easy job-- remove the trigger from the gun, clamp it in a vise, and use a dremel with a fine sanding drum. Just be careful- material comes off a lot easier than it goes back on! :confused: I finish up with some fine emory cloth.
I have one 1985-ish no-dash model 60 with the .312" wide combat trigger, and I find I prefer a smoothed-out .240" service trigger. FWIW I've dropped in a different hammer once and it worked fine, but I haven't had any luck just dropping in a different trigger-- I had trigger return issues both times I tried it..
 

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What ever you do .............

Do NOT take any power tools to the trigger while it is still in the gun. One little slip and you will then have a screwed up finish. After removing the trigger, do as much and go as far as you want, then reinstall. No real way of touching up case coloring that will last any length of time, so be extra careful not to take off anything unintended. A small scratch or slip can be hit with some cold bluing, but won't last that long if the gun is shot regularly.
 
I just used a scotch brite disc after I have removed the trigger.
Smoothens and polishes in one step and it is hard to remove to much materia
 
Here's what my smooth model 10 trigger looks like. Done around 30 years ago....


 
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