So I want to get a S&W M1917

Phillies

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After getting a nice S&W Victory revolver here on the forums about a year ago I got an itch to get an M1917. To my surprise they seem hard to find and pretty damm expensive. Was the market always so scarce and high priced for these in more recent years?
 
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They show up fairly often in every condition imaginable from really nice originals to shortened barrels, sights added, really rough, refinished, etc. Prices are up on everything but I think serviceable 1917s can still be had for not unreasonable prices. Last ones I've seen locally in original but worn condition, maybe with wrong grips, were about $800. Almost any N frame these days is getting to be a $1k gun. You can post in the "want to buy" section or perhaps your post here will generate some PMs with offers to sell. Good luck.

Jeff
SWCA #1457
 
How long have you been looking for a 1917?

And what level of condition/originality are you looking for?

Like Jeff posted above, they're out there in every conceivable condition. The nicer it is that you want, the longer it takes to find. But the longer you look, and the more you see, the more you'll learn about which ones are "right" and which ones to avoid at any price. And you'll get a good feel for what a good price is.

When thinking about prices, keep in mind that Victory Models were made in the millions. Only 164XXX or so 1917s were made and 1917s are a lot older.

Good hunting and don't worry, you'll find one,
 
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This is a great revolver to hunt for. It took me three plus years and over $1000 to find the one I wanted. I passed on many below 1k and the prices rose in the time it took me to find one. I found mine at the Colorado Gun Collectors Show last year and would suggest "collectors" style gun show and personally visit good gun shops. September 1918 and numbers matching, $1200 and I'm happy with it:
 

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My own search was for a “shooter-grade” gun, and it took a while. In fact, the number of beat-all-to-hell guns with filed-off butt markings and $1500 price tags had me so discouraged that I stopped actively looking. Than last fall I stumbled across this at a gun show. Based on the information acquired from the experts here it appears it made a trip back to the factory for a refurb in 1971, and wasn’t used much since. It probably holds no appeal to a collector of military guns, but it was worth the $800 asking price to me. She’s a sweet shooter.

They’re out there, and if you’re at all like me yours will pop up when you least expect it.


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I've continually upgraded my S&Ws over the years and I now have a virtually new S&W 1917. As it's in such pristine condition, I shoot a Brazilian 1917 when the urge to shoot one hits.

If you don't need one from the US Military, you might look for the Brazilian 1917. At one time, they were only about a third of the price of a GI 1917.

As you can see, the Brazilians shoot just as well. This was a 20 yard target fired DA from a Weaver stance.
 

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I got this one last summer for $880 off gunauction.com. All original early gun (under 10k S/N). The grip adapter is my addition. It's definitely been knocked around, but it's an Army gun --- I'm not one to pay x2 or x3 for a pristine example. Mine went to war!

So there are still deals. But the days of stumbling over them at gun shows for $350 are back in the early 2000s somewhere.

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Phillies,
My favorite S&W; bought my first one in 1959 for $24.99 and it 0was nearly new in condition. Have owned probably 100 over the years, but at 79 I’m down to only six. If you want to actually carry one regularly (I do so) the Brazilian or post 1925 civilian models are safer to carry due to the new hammer block safety. The 1st hammer block (moves into the hammer path from the side-plate) must be check for free movement. This type of safety was not working on a WWII victory model .38 and a sailor was killed when the gun was dropped. The newest such safety (moves up from the bottom of the hammer slot when activated by a pin on the rebound slide) always works and cannot be rendered ineffective by accumulated grease/dirt.
 
Thanks for all the replies. I'm definitely looking for a US military example and one I can use as a regular shooter. For thr past 2 months I've been searching I've seen alot that have some pitting in the bore. Is that typical for these old guns or maybe I just need to do more searching ?
 
Military .45 ACP ammunition had corrosive primers all the way into the 1950s as I recall, so pitted chambers and bores are unfortunately common. This probably doesn't affect accuracy much but is ugly. One more detail to check out before a purchase.
 
I picked up my Model 1917 (ca. late 1918) at a local gun shop about 8 years ago for under $700. It's about a 90% revolver, and an excellent and accurate shooter. Those prices are long gone, and I haven't seen a decent 1917 for under $1000 in quite a while. Enjoy!
 

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Phillies,
If you want to actually carry one regularly (I do so) the Brazilian or post 1925 civilian models are safer to carry due to the new hammer block safety. The 1st hammer block (moves into the hammer path from the side-plate) must be check for free movement. This type of safety was not working on a WWII victory model .38 and a sailor was killed when the gun was dropped. The newest such safety (moves up from the bottom of the hammer slot when activated by a pin on the rebound slide) always works and cannot be rendered ineffective by accumulated grease/dirt.


• No hammer block safety until 1933 when 1917s first included the 2nd style side plate mounted hammer block safety (which uses the hand spring in front top of trigger) at ~ # 185,000 per SCSW 3rd Ed., pg 163 w/o an S prefix to butt # because of course it’s prior to 1946.
 
Hondo,
Saw the page 163 to which you referred, that includes the 185,000 serial range, but didn’t see the 1933 date. You may be correct, but I remember seeing a friend’s late Brazilian shipment sent in 1946 (built on old WW1 frames) that looked to be un-molested, but didn’t have either the side-plate hammer block nor the new rebound slide block. I thought that was a bit cavalier of S&W to send out a revolver without either hammer block safety.
 
Hondo,
Saw the page 163 to which you referred, that includes the 185,000 serial range, but didn’t see the 1933 date. You may be correct, but I remember seeing a friend’s late Brazilian shipment sent in 1946 (built on old WW1 frames) that looked to be un-molested, but didn’t have either the side-plate hammer block nor the new rebound slide block. I thought that was a bit cavalier of S&W to send out a revolver without either hammer block safety.

Yeah the reference to page 163 was only for the serial #. The date came from one of Roy's books or Roy himself.

The reason some '46 Brazilians don't have the hammer block like the 1937 models is because most of them were WWI surplus frames S&W purchased back from the Army.
 
As part of my hunt for a S&W M1917 I often look at Legacy Collectables. I know they usually charge a but more for things but they always seem to have great stuff for sale. I've seen some for sale at Check Point Charlie's as well. (New owner there). Are there any other retail type places that I could also check out ?
 
Watch the larger auction and sales sites on the Internet. You can get a very good sense of the 'Condition + Price = Value' equation. You can then set your sights on what you want and what you are willing to pay. Be aware that there are many out there that have been refinished, and that is a detraction to the value. This forum has a lot of information about the 1917, and a lot can be learned about the variations as well as determining if a piece has been reblued. I have seen some real beauties on the auction block within the last several years, and the prices have been climbing quite a bit for really nice examples. Within the last week I saw a very nice one hammer down at $3K+. I think that is high, but obviously several other folks didn't think so. That is about double what it may have been just several years ago. Lesser condition will sell at a lower price of course. I like to buy good condition when possible, but it certainly limits my buying when prices are soaring.
Here's a 1917 I picked up several years ago based upon condition. It turned out to be a good buy when looking at current prices.... I bought a couple Brazilians to take out for fun at the range.

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My suggestion would be to post a WTB advertisement on this forum and shake the tree for a while to see what falls out. Most members here are quite fair and honest with fellow members.
 
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