After telling everyone for the last couple of years that if they lighten the pull they will suffer light strikes, and having everyone call me a liar. What have you done to lighten the DA trigger pull? I would like to use a 617 in the Steel Challenge matches.
So what are you doing for a trigger job on a 22 revolver
- Thread starter sar4937
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HEADKNOCKER
Member
I would aquire a Wolff mainspring in full power with the two ridges in it..Also use a RP rebound spring of your likeing, Probobly #14-#15 lb..
I would stone the rebound slide & smooth the inside of it's hole, polish the outside of the rebound spring & make sure the DA sear is square, Make sure there's no drag anywere on the insides of the frame around all the moving parts, hammer, rebound & trigger..
Alot of times the hammer & trigger have pins that extend out just a bit & stone them smooth, Mark the trigger & hammer while in the frame with a pencil so as not to make any marks that will show, this will rub right off with some oil & a rag..
Lube & reassemble..
You may also want to add an overtravel stop in the back of the trigger as well..
You don't wanna go too light on the mainspring but making everything smooth & the wolff springs should get you to were your wanting to go..
Rimfires take a bit more power to ignite than centerfire plus most 22lr ammo is dirty & when the charge holes get caked & cartridges aren't seating fully you'll be glad you have the standard power mainspring..
Good Luck!
I need to aquire another 617.. A 6 shot Sqaure butt would do but realy want a 10 shot round butt, Pre lock of course..
Gary/Hk
I would stone the rebound slide & smooth the inside of it's hole, polish the outside of the rebound spring & make sure the DA sear is square, Make sure there's no drag anywere on the insides of the frame around all the moving parts, hammer, rebound & trigger..
Alot of times the hammer & trigger have pins that extend out just a bit & stone them smooth, Mark the trigger & hammer while in the frame with a pencil so as not to make any marks that will show, this will rub right off with some oil & a rag..
Lube & reassemble..
You may also want to add an overtravel stop in the back of the trigger as well..
You don't wanna go too light on the mainspring but making everything smooth & the wolff springs should get you to were your wanting to go..
Rimfires take a bit more power to ignite than centerfire plus most 22lr ammo is dirty & when the charge holes get caked & cartridges aren't seating fully you'll be glad you have the standard power mainspring..
Good Luck!
I need to aquire another 617.. A 6 shot Sqaure butt would do but realy want a 10 shot round butt, Pre lock of course..
Gary/Hk
OP
"you'll be glad you have the standard power mainspring", so are you recommending the reduced power or carry duty spring? Thanks for the response.
HEADKNOCKER
Member
For the 617 I'd go with the Carry Duty Spring but you could always use the reduced power & use an allen set screw in place of the strain screw & adjust it till it misfires & then increase it till it doesn't, Put teflon tape or locktite on the screw to keep it from backing out..
I have a few at the house & I can give you the size pitch & lenth, I bought them at Home Depot under $2 for a pair..
I did use a RP mainspring in a 617 before & had trouble with light hammer strikes untill I tried the allen set screw which was a suggestion by someone here on the forum, The wolff mainspring is much smoother than the factory or the Jerry Mickulick springs I tried in it..
You'll have to shoot it a bunch to see what works out best for you and your revolver..
Gary/Hk
I have a few at the house & I can give you the size pitch & lenth, I bought them at Home Depot under $2 for a pair..
I did use a RP mainspring in a 617 before & had trouble with light hammer strikes untill I tried the allen set screw which was a suggestion by someone here on the forum, The wolff mainspring is much smoother than the factory or the Jerry Mickulick springs I tried in it..
You'll have to shoot it a bunch to see what works out best for you and your revolver..
Gary/Hk
tomcatt51
Member
The reduced power spring is fine if you have a long enough strain screw. I replace the stock strain screw with 8-32 socket set screws and loctite them.
Stainz
Member
The problem with the excellent Wolff hammer leaf is that the smaller ends on the strain screws these days, especially if, like in the 'Pro' series, the screw has been 'altered', intrudes into the backside of that 'Power Rib'. That lessens the pre-load - and hammer energy. I used a full power Wolff and an adjustable set screw type strain screw. Great improvement, albeit a tad time consuming to 'tweak'. Of course, it isn't far from the mark compared with my 625JM and 627 Pro (My SPC revolvers!), but pales when compared with a few of my other 'tweaked' cf revolvers. Of course, on the other end is my new 63 - a J-frame 8-shot .22... pretty stiff, but shootable in DA.
Stainz
Stainz
500 Magnum Nut
Member
When I lighten them I do a little polishing, then change out the rebound to something lighter, around a 14LB. A little lube and it's better and 100% reliable.
If you want more, then trim a few coils off the bolt spring, file the rear of the bolt 3/32 so the bolt will travel further into the rear of the gun.
What this does, is loosens the drag on the center pin and causes the cylinder to have less resistance as it rotates. Less resistance means a lighter trigger pull.
Don't mess with the springs inside the cylinder!
If you want more, then trim a few coils off the bolt spring, file the rear of the bolt 3/32 so the bolt will travel further into the rear of the gun.
What this does, is loosens the drag on the center pin and causes the cylinder to have less resistance as it rotates. Less resistance means a lighter trigger pull.
Don't mess with the springs inside the cylinder!
mstuhr
Member
Thanks
Howdy 500 Magnum nut,
Great tip, thanks a million. This will be another of the little things that add up to a nicer trigger.
Thanks
Mike
Howdy 500 Magnum nut,
Great tip, thanks a million. This will be another of the little things that add up to a nicer trigger.
Thanks
Mike
Bullseye Smith
Member
500 and Gary are right on, you can polish the rebound till you can see yourself in it, but if you don't finish the inside of the frame you are doing it for nothing. Just smooth the serface of the rebound and inside the frame, look at the side of the hammer for wear. Add a bearing on the side of wear, if you are left handed add a bearing to the right side of the hammer and trigger. Take a stone and go over every parts edge easy. Square the sear and polish the face that the trigger slides down. Go over the hammer block from one end to the other. Should be able to get it down to about 6 pounds on double action. I have a 617 and a 32 long set-up to have the same trigger pull to shoot Bullseye with.
SW357Addict
Member
I purchased a 10-shot 617 last weekend and I did the following:
1. Installed a Wolff Standard Power mainspring.
2. Installed an 8-32 allen set screw in place of the strain screw to be able to increase the preload on the mainspring. With the Wolff mainspring, the standard length screw did not give enough tension.
3. Installed a Power custom trigger shim on the left side of trigger.
4. Installed a wider trigger to be able to have a reduced trigger pull "feel".
1. Installed a Wolff Standard Power mainspring.
2. Installed an 8-32 allen set screw in place of the strain screw to be able to increase the preload on the mainspring. With the Wolff mainspring, the standard length screw did not give enough tension.
3. Installed a Power custom trigger shim on the left side of trigger.
4. Installed a wider trigger to be able to have a reduced trigger pull "feel".
OP
Bullseye Smith, where are you getting the bearings you are installing on the side of the hammer? Are these the Power's shims? As I stated in the other thread, I installed a reduced power Wolff mainspring, and a 14lb rebound spring. The MIM parts were already very smooth, so I reassembled it with Slide-Glide. I initially got the expected light strikes, but I got the idea of using a gutted small pistol primer cup as a shim under the stock strain screw. With this set-up I got 1 FTF in 50. It is a work in progress. I have located stainless set screws at West Marine, but have to buy way to many to justify. But they do have marine applications, so it's just a matter of time before I find one.
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Stainz
Member
I bought my #8-32 hardened Allen headed SS setscrews at Home Depot - plastic bagged 2/$0.56 last September. Clean the screw and frame threaded hole with acetone or some other solvent with a high VOC rating. If you haven't replaced the original spring yet, try to measure the separation of the hammer leaf from the frame at the strain screw. Replicate that with the new spring and set screw. Test fire - if no ftfs, unload and unscrew the screw 1/2 turn and reload and fire again. Keep on until you get a ftf - then screw it back in a half turn - put one drop of blue Loctite on the screw in place and fire a bunch - tighten a 1/4 turn more until no ftfs - with your regular, but decent, ammo.
Stainz
Stainz
tomcatt51
Member
I've never had an issue with the set screws rusting and I have 2 revolvers that have had them 15+ yrs.
A high 7 lb DA pull (with a Wolff 11 lb rebound spring) is the best I can get with acceptable ignition reliability (shooting DA) for bowling pins/pin heads and "steel challenge". That's shooting CCI Mini-Mags.
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