Solved: sticky cylinder release

[gotigers]

I picked up a new to me 629-5 last week. It is in great shape, i am very happy. The only negative is the cylinder release is a little stiff.

I have a 642 and a GP100 that are much easier to release.

Can this be normal or do i need to look at the internals? This is my first larger frame S&W revolver.

 

[Durango Slim]

Have you done a deep clean on it?

As in removing the side plate and making sure it is clean and lubed.

 

[steelslaver]

Some times there is a burr on the back of the thumb pice

 

[Pisgah]

Be sure the ejector rod is screwed in tight.

 

[gotigers]

I took the side plate off and cleaned it. All surfaces are in clean with no burrs. The ejector is tight.

While handling the cylinder, i noticed the detent on the star is what has the catch not the thumb slide. I put a drop of oil on it and cycled it a bunch and it is getting better. However, i do think my next disassembly will be of the ejector.

 

[steelslaver]

dirty or slightly bent center pin

 

[sctman800]

My 625-8 JM developed the same problem after many rounds, with the cyl swung out pushing the button would show the problem. Pulled the ejector and on the front of the rod a burr had developed. Took a hard stone and got rid of the burr and all is well. Jim.

 

[cmdrcody]

Try soaking it in Hoppes 9 and then blow it out with air. Some oils break down and turn gummy. I’ve used this fix for years.
One guy had used “water displacement 40” on his and it pretty much glued his cylinder closed. After soaking and using better oil it was good as new.

 

[chief38]

Sometimes the ejector rod needs proper fitting at the front and has a bur on it. They will stick. Easy to remedy if that is the issue.

 

[gotigers]

I disassembled the cylinder. All looks good and clean.

Regardless, it felt like the stickiness is in the far end of the ejector rod. I wasn't sure how to disassemble it so, i stopped until i see it done.

Edit: after looking at a few disassembly videos, i think the mushroom of the far end of the detent in the pic below is the issue. Shouldn't i be able to pull that detent rod out?

 

[Vtgw938]

Center pin does look flared, it shouldn't be and likely your problem. Even when all clean, at least half of the revolvers I handle are not smooth enough on opening and closing to my liking. Sometimes the rod end that engages the lock bolt in the shroud needs squaring up or slight trimming. But you want to make sure everything else is right before removing any metal.

 

[gotigers]

If i wanted to replace it, is this what i need?

Center Pin, Stainless, New Factory Original N FRAME SMITH & WESSON

 

[gotigers]

bump for the last question

 

[steelslaver]

That pin should work, but may need trimmed for lerngth as they are actually a fitted part. It should only prodrude from the rod a tiny bit when the other end of it is pressed flush with center of ratchet.

But you could just take a fine file and file away the flare from the sides of the one you have. Don't make it shorter. Just uniform OD. Even if you get it slightly under sized OD wise it would not effect anything. You could put it in a drill and hold it against a piece of sand paper held on a flat piece of steel.

 

[gotigers]

Solved: i slowly turned the end of the center pin on some high grit emory paper, with oil. That removed the rolled edge on the end.

The cylinder now releases as intended. No stickiness.

Thanks for everyone's input.

Merry Christmas

 

[Hawg Rider]

Try soaking it in Hoppes 9 and then blow it out with air. Some oils break down and turn gummy. I’ve used this fix for years.
One guy had used “water displacement 40” on his and it pretty much glued his cylinder closed. After soaking and using better oil it was good as new.

I had a sticky situation when using Hoppe's No. 9 (I understand that the original formula was slightly changed a few years back)! I cleaned a few stainless steel handguns (S&W 1911, Model 627-5, and 642-2), and did not follow the Hoppe's No. 9 with some CLP. After a couple of months of sitting in the nightstand drawer and gun safe, the 1911 slide was almost frozen, and the revolvers' cylinder pins/extractor rods were extremely sticky and wouldn't operate properly. After a thorough cleaning and lube, the issue was resolved. Hoppe's is a great bore solvent, but definitely not a lubricant or protectant.

I'm glad to hear that the OP was successful with his DIY fix!