source for 66-1 ejector center pin and endshake washers

[Lou_NC]

I picked up a 66-1 recently and have been checking it out thoroughly following the Kuhnhausen shop manual. I'm having some dragging/sticking when opening the cylinder and I believe the ejector rod center pin is a tad short. I'd like to replace the rod and trim the new one to length per Kuhnhausen's suggestion.

I've tried searching the Brownell's website with no luck. I don't know if it's how I'm searching, or whether they don't carry that particular part. If anyone could suggest a source for this part, I'd appreciate it. The revolver has a 4" barrel, so I believe this is a "full length" ejector rod and center pin.

I'm also looking for a few endshake washers, ("bearings", according to the Power Custom product on the Brownells website). I've calculated that I need to remove 0.006" of endshake. (When pushed forward, the cylinder face to barrel gap is .002". When held back, the cylinder face to barrel gap is .010". I figure about .006" of washers should do the trick.) I plan to check headspace after correcting the endshake.

The kits of bearings I see on Brownell's website are $18. I need three 0.002" washers, or one 0.004" washer and one 0.002" washer. Is there any other way that I can accomplish this for less than $18? I don't mind spending money on guns but $18 for washers.......ouch.

Last but not least, I've always been able to loosen ejector rods easily using the chuck of my drill press. This one is a little stubborn. Is the Brownell's "extractor rod tool" a good solution, or is there a better choice out there? Would drizzling some Kroil down the outside of the ejector rod and leaving the cylinder ejector-rod-up overnight possibly help loosen the threads? What about using a heat gun to warm the cylinder/ejector rod? One last thought......the s/n of the revolver is 72K37xx. Is it possible that this revolver has RH threads and not LH threads on the ejector rod?

Thanks for the help!

Lou

 

[bgrafsr]

It's not a good idea to use too many endshake washers together, so no more than two would be okay. .004" & .002".

Your drill chuck should work, just be sure it is clamped tight and put empty cases in at least three chambers before loosening. Also, if you're not aware, of it, loosen by turning clockwise (left hand threads).

Midway may have the center pin or try Popperts Gun Parts. Search for Popperts on Google. Nice guy to deal with and if you send him an email, he usually responds the same day.

 

[FRAN357]

CALL SMITH FOR THE CENTER PIN AND ROD.

 

[judge]

Sir - If you are having trouble opening the cylinder because the pin is a "tad short", you may not need a new pin at all. Install the shim washers first to eliminate excess end play. The end play allows the complete cylinder assy to move fwd when the thumbpiece is operated. This can allow the center pin not to meet the end of the rod, causing a release problem. Try again after installing the shims - if the pin is still too short, trim the end of the rod a few thousands until the opening is to your satisfaction. Usually a few thousands will do the trick - this is a common fix and is done all the time.

 

[Lou_NC]

Ahh, this makes perfect sense, thanks! I can see that if the cylinder assembly is too far forward, then the "relative" spacing of the end of the center rod to the ejector rod could be out of alignment. I will add the shims first before ordering & swapping the center pin.

Lou

Sir - If you are having trouble opening the cylinder because the pin is a "tad short", you may not need a new pin at all. Install the shim washers first to eliminate excess end play. The end play allows the complete cylinder assy to move fwd when the thumbpiece is operated. This can allow the center pin not to meet the end of the rod, causing a release problem. Try again after installing the shims - if the pin is still too short, trim the end of the rod a few thousands until the opening is to your satisfaction. Usually a few thousands will do the trick - this is a common fix and is done all the time.

 

[climbcut25]

It just so happens that I have a .005, .004, .0025, .002 ans a .0015 spacer/washer that I machined up for a kit gun. They worked in my k-22 also. I made them out of Starret shim stock.

Pm me with your address and I will post what you would like to you... For the cost of "Doing someone else a solid."http://smith-wessonforum.com/images/smilies/smile.gif

 

[jepp2]

Midway has both:

Extractor Rod link

Center Pin link

It's not a good idea to use too many endshake washers together, so no more than two would be okay.

Hmm, news to me. A slight coating of oil and they stick together like glued and they are captive and not going any where. Can you share why the limit is two? I'm just trying to learn why, not tying to be a smart aleck.

 

[bgrafsr]

Midway has both:

Extractor Rod link

Center Pin link



Hmm, news to me. A slight coating of oil and they stick together like glued and they are captive and not going any where. Can you share why the limit is two? I'm just trying to learn why, not tying to be a smart aleck.

Sorry, I heard about not using too many shims, but I don't remember from who or if I read it. This was many years ago though.

 

[TAROMAN]

Shims work well to correct endshake. I have used them successfully a couple times.
A word of caution is to carefully check the mating surface inside the cylinder for flatness. If there's a groove worn into it, your washer(s) will likely fail in short order.
I dressed this area flat before installing the washers. For this, I faced the butt end of a W drill bit flat. Then super-glued disks of wet/dry sandpaper to it. made short work of smoothing things out.

My $0.03. YMMV!

 

[climbcut25]

Taroman is exactly correct. Be sure both mating faces are flat and true. (See my post regarding "recent auction score" for some horrorific pictures of what happens when someone does not know how to correct end shake.) I use some "Dotco" grease on shims/washers before putting them in just to provide a little more wear resistance.

 

[jepp2]

The specifics are covered very will in post 10 of the Sticky at the top of the Gunsmithing section link

 

[Lou_NC]

A follow up........and a public "thank you very much!" to climbcut25 for sharing several endshake washers with me! The 0.005" washer corrected both the endshake and cylinder release problem. Barrel to cylinder gap and headspace are both in spec now, and I can't wait to take this beauty to the range again. It's amazing how five thousandths in the right place makes all the difference in the world.........

Thanks to all who helped me out, this is truly a GREAT forum!

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