Splitting Axe VS Maul

[raver]

While I may be skirting the no politics rule here, I was wondering what you all preferred.

I've never used a splitting axe, my father was of the opinion that a cheap maul from the local hardware store was good enough and any deficiency could be made up for in elbow grease.

That's all well and good, but as I roll into my third decade and stop needing to borrow his tools, I find myself poised to purchase my own splitting implement. And, unlike my father, I don't have three children to support, so my budget is a bit higher.

I looked online and the two main contenders seem to be the Fiskars X27 and the Gransfors Bruks Maul, with the "Monster Maul" being a distant third.

I'd have to save up for awhile before purchasing the Gransfors Bruks, so I went with the Fiskars for now, as I need to get wood in before it gets to darn hot around here! If it works well I'll get one for my pops for his birthday. If not, I'll try to get him the Gransfors. (and go back to borrowing)

Anyway, which do you prefer?

 

[NYlakesider]

I always used a maul, (25 years) but as I’m getting older if I still had the need to split wood would get something gasoline powered! I now have a pellet stove so the maul is basically retired sitting out in the back garage.

 

[Autococker07]

They make an axe just for splitting? I never knew that.... always used a maul and elbow grease growing up with a fireplace.... now I don't have a fireplace

 

[Hunter8282]

#1 - My Dad's gas powered vertical log splitter
#2 - Monster Maul

The Monster Maul is nice because if it doesn't crack it, it doesn't really "stick" into the wood causing extra effort to get it back out.

 

[Steve in Vermont]

We burned wood for 25 years and in the beginning I bought a Craftsman 8# maul that I still have. It has a fiberglass handle and the back of the maul is flat for pounding stakes, etc. I seldom sharpened the maul, like you do with an axe. If it's to sharp sooner or later you will pound into a large block and it will be stuck. Remember, a maul is for splitting, not cutting. As to weight, that's an individual decision for each person. It depends on your physical ability and the size of the wood you're splitting. The more weight, the more force, the easier the split. And while you're buying a maul, consider a couple of steel wedges for those tough jobs. That's where the back of the maul comes in handy, for pounding them in. I've seen mauls with all sorts of modifications, usually for a high price. Keep it simple, all you need is a basic maul, the same as people have used for generations.

 

[Cooter Brown]

I think the Gransfors tools are overrated and overpriced. Great marketing, though. Just my opinion after using a few and comparing with others, like Council tool.

I'd recommend a Council Tool maul. Made in USA.

Council has both 6lb and 8lb in either axe eye or sledge eye. I like the 6lb sledge eye. Hickory or glass handles. Figure $40-$50.

The USFS uses Council tools. Quality stuff.

 

[Rangerpat]

Take a look at Fiskars Splitting Axes, the X25 / 28" handle or the X27 / 36" handle; around $50-$60 price range with a lifetime warranty.
I believe they both use the same size axe head (4.4 lbs.) and do a great job at splitting firewood. You can check them out on Husqvarna Chainsaws, Outdoor Power Equipment and Tree Care Supplies from Bailey's
I have used a 8# maul for years but now that I'm over 60 years -old I find using the Fiskars a lot easier to handle, and I'm not as sore the next morning after splitting firewood.

 

[raver]

Take a look at Fiskars Splitting Axes, the X25 / 28" handle or the X27 / 36" handle; around $50-$60 price range with a lifetime warranty.
I believe they both use the same size axe head (4.4 lbs.) and do a great job at splitting firewood. You can check them out on Husqvarna Chainsaws, Outdoor Power Equipment and Tree Care Supplies from Bailey's
I have used a 8# maul for years but now that I'm over 60 years -old I find using the Fiskars a lot easier to handle, and I'm not as sore the next morning after splitting firewood.

I thought I said in the opening post, I've purchased the Fiskars X27. My question was more which one does the forum like. Sorry for any confusion.

 

[Rangerpat]

raver,
You are correct, I'm the one confused, my bad.
I vote for the Fiskars over the Gransfors Bruks due to price point.

 

[arjay]

Mine is similar to the fiskars (don't remember the brand and too lazy to go out to the shed) and it works quite well.I use a steel wedge with a 10 lb sledge to start the really tough stuff.The wedge and maul are kept razor sharp.

 

[ImprovedModel56Fan]

Don't know anything about splitting axes, but I've used a maul some up at the local rod & gun club, where we cut and burn a fair amount of hardwood. The last half-dozen years or so, we've used a gas-powered hydraulic splitter, but I remember that a year or so after using a maul the first time, I read an ad for a Monster Maul where they touted their product as superior to splitters, because you were less likely to **** up your back lifting a really heavy log onto the splitter. With a maul, all you have to do is upend the log.

I think they were right. The maul is better than the splitter, and it's a lot quieter.

 

[MH8675309]

Much depends on the wood you're splitting. If its elm or curly maple it can be pretty tough to split. Ash or oak on the other hand are comparatively easy. I wore out a 12 lb triangle shaped wedge with a steel handle. It worked really good and I used it for 13 years of heating only with wood. I bought another one and have had it for 8 years now but an 8 lb maul with a fiberglass handle feels better these days as I'm not getting any younger. Still haven't broke down and bought a hydraulic splitter though.

 

[walkin jack]

I have always used what I have been calling a "splitting maul" A standard hickory ax handle with a weighted head that is a hammer on one end and an ax blade on the other. It works pretty well most of the time but now and then I have to use my "splitting wedges" along with it. Not much I can't get through with all that.

But I must admit that at my age the idea of the gas powered splitter is calling to me.

 

[raver]

I can't say I've never dreamed of throwing a big ol' "pair of pants" onto a splitter and throwing the switch, usually while giving my best mad scientist laugh. But I find something therapeutic in splitting. I hate felling and find bucking limbing and stacking to be a necessary waste of a good Saturday, but splitting is just...nice.

There's an ebb and flow to it, at least when it's going well. Thus my desire for a good splitting tool. I want to split more and sweat less, but I don't want to resort to a machine either.

 

[targetchief]

If you are burning any amount of wood, sooner or later you will end up with a hydraulic splitter and wonder why you didn't get it sooner. Mine is a Huskee from Tractor Supply. You can use it horizontal or vertical. Bought it new in 1995. Had to rebuild the carburetor last year, other than that, no problems at all. Would like to see all the wood it has split in one pile.

 

[Kanewpadle]

What's a splitting maul? I always used a double bladed axe.

 

[BigBill]

A Sears 8# splitting maul is the best. Polish the sides. I split 20 cords of wood and built my own splitter to split the 80 cords that followed.

 

[Old 44 Guy]

I've been heating with wood since 1961. After a lot of axes, mauls.& different wedges I broke down & bought a MTD gas powered splitter. It's a trailer mount & can tow it to where I'm cutting. That was 20 years ago & never regretted hanging up the maul.My son in law & grandson do the cutting & splitting & stacking now.

 

[cussedemgun]

My $.02

There's an ebb and flow to it, at least when it's going well. Thus my desire for a good splitting tool. I want to split more and sweat less, but I don't want to resort to a machine either.

Much depends on the type & density of the wood you are splitting. For easy on the splitter & good production also, I use an 8lb. hammer with the handle bobbed to 28".

I will get a 5gal. bucket, in it I put 3 wedges, hammer, a 6 pack, & safety glasses (I aint telling nobody what to do, but I like to use safety glasses when pounding steel with steel).

Turn round up on end, set bucket up side down 3 feet away, set wedge in block, set butt on bucket, strike wedge with hammer. Repeat as necessary.

When wedge gets stuck, start another as required to finish the split. Don't forget the 6 pack, that's for coolant in case you get going too fast & start to over-heat.

 

[1coyote]

6# Maul for straight grained woods like cherry and oak.
Monster Maul for the tougher juggles.