Who here has weighted the buffer in there sport. Mine is 2.863oz with no tungsten sections in it. Mine runs fine but after looking into different buffers used by ofter brands and seeing that guys change to H and even H2 and 9mm buffers in carbines whats up with buffer weights and the pros and cons of going heavier.
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Sport buffer weight.
- Thread starter hardluk1
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SSgt M
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Simply :
The heavier the buffer the slower the cycle rate,
The slower rate , slows down wear, may increase the speed on a follow up shot many have stated this to be true.
Has also said to reduce felt recoil.... Though it can't be much =)
BUT, if it ain't broke, don't fix it......
Some guys have ejected brass showing overgas, so some of them add the heavy buffer to slow things down to achieve a proper ejection.
My sport is good, ejects lake city 5.56 at 3:00, I noticed brown bear steel 223 ejects at 4 o'clock.
The heavier the buffer the slower the cycle rate,
The slower rate , slows down wear, may increase the speed on a follow up shot many have stated this to be true.
Has also said to reduce felt recoil.... Though it can't be much =)
BUT, if it ain't broke, don't fix it......
Some guys have ejected brass showing overgas, so some of them add the heavy buffer to slow things down to achieve a proper ejection.
My sport is good, ejects lake city 5.56 at 3:00, I noticed brown bear steel 223 ejects at 4 o'clock.
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This ^^^^^
Some manufacturers (S&W included) use a larger than mil-spec gas port to ensure proper functioning with SAAMI-spec .223 ammunition, which runs at lower pressure than 5.56 NATO.
When using 5.56 ammo and the M&P-15's standard carbine buffer and spring, there is the possibility that the action may cycle too rapidly, resulting in a failure-to-feed with some magazines with weaker springs (the action cycles faster than the magazine spring can push the top round up to get picked up and chambered by the bolt). This will more than likely only occur intermittently, in particular combinations of ammo and some magazines.
If this happens, using a heavier buffer and action spring will slow down the action, giving the magazine time to push the round up.
What if you go too heavy with the buffer and spring? In that case, you will get short-cycling with failures-to-feed and also, often, a failure to cock the hammer.
A lot of people have spent a lot of time and $$$ replacing buffers and springs in an attempt to tune their weapon...
Also this ^^^^^
If you are not having problems with your M&P-15, stop worring about the buffer and go have fun! Spend your money elsewhere.
Thanks for info. It does seems like a common sence that heavier would slow things down and be easier on the action and the over gassing I understand. Just figured if I could slow down the cyle rate a bit it had to better for the action in the long run. I am retired and it just givesme something to mess around with.
I have shot to date federals ar223 55gr, imi 55gr 5.56, imi m855 wolf gold 75gr match .223 and some home brew 75gr 223 slooow loads at 2455fps. All cycled fine and just figured to try a heavier buffer to see how things worked out. Now if it could find just the tungston slugs to swap out.
I have shot to date federals ar223 55gr, imi 55gr 5.56, imi m855 wolf gold 75gr match .223 and some home brew 75gr 223 slooow loads at 2455fps. All cycled fine and just figured to try a heavier buffer to see how things worked out. Now if it could find just the tungston slugs to swap out.
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Hardluck...didnt you blow up your HP45acp with super slow loads? Just checking and trying to figure out the fascination with really slow loads. I do not mean to disrespect you in anyway but just wondering what you are after. I have never heard of people loading for slowness, usually people are loading for speed or accuracy and maybe there is something I am missing.
Grover
Grover
JaPes
Member
<raises hand>
I did. On my less than scientifically precise digital postage scale...
Carbine Buffer = 3.0 oz.
H Buffer = 3.9 oz.
H2 Buffer = 4.8 oz.
I think it would be overall easier & less time consuming to just purchase a H buffer. Mine cost $14 locally.
JaPes
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rojodiablo
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I always like when a person says "My weapon works perfectly well. I think I will screw with the mechanics of its' fire system, and see how it works out.................
If the rifle works as designed, then stick with it. If the recoil is too much, chamber down a couple calibers. If it does not contain enough firepower for the task at hand, chamber up a few calibers.
If I were to make one (Mechanical) change with a carbine, it would be in the interest of long range accuracy, and it would be a trigger swap. If there were a second change, it would also be for longer range shooting, and it would be a longer barrel.
Since the rifle is a good shooter out of the box, I am always reluctant to make changes that can have a negative effect on dependability.
But you are free to experiment; just keep the stock stuff so you can go back if the changes do not work out.
JaPes
Member
I always like when a person says "My weapon works perfectly well. I think I will screw with the mechanics of its' fire system, and see how it works out.................
It's not like he's rebuilding a carburetor & changing out the needles & jets. It's a buffer. It can be swapped in and out in a snap.
... 
The 15-Sport, at least mine, is a bit over-gassed. I'm guessing it's so that it can cycle a wider range of commonly found ammo.
Changing out the buffer is a matter of finding the heaviest weight that will allow your rifle to fully cycle your primary brand/type of ammo.
Oh fiddlesticks. I'm starting to sound like I'm from a dedicated AR forum. Someone pass me a beer so I can get back to normal!
If the Sport is overgassed as has been said then by all means try an H buffer to smooth it out. You might even get an H2 since it sounds like you like to tinker - so you could swap tungston and steel weights from your standard buffer to make two H's if H2 is too heavy. I found an H2 works best in one AR and an H in the other, both midlength gas.
after looking at the little gas hole in the barrel it is hard to believe they are over gassed. But after changing out my gas block, and my recoil increasing noticeably I can believe it. And I have a 4.3 (thanks for remembering JaPes) oz buffer. But it spits out .223's with authority now. But the buffer does calm the rifle down. I put the stock back in and it really worked the action.
rojodiablo You did change anything on your ar? Is it not good enough the way you bought it? have you ever lightend or polish a trigger group or change barrels in anything. Never think of reloading ammo as its good enough from the factory. Mess with with a hot rod or motorcycle thats no longer box stock. Too boreing to never change anything just because it works ok now.
Japes You undersatnd. But I also just have messed with the motors in cars and bikes too. HA.
Quentin I did have a talk with one of s&w m&p rifle guys yesterday afternoon, not a cs guys. It took a few days wait for a call back. He did say that the sports were over gased to run with a wide range of ammo relieably. Said if I wanted to change buffers that was fine but they did not sell any heavier. Suprizeing to hear that from a management guy. He said it would ether work or stop functioning reliably and then lighten it back up. Just what I wanted to here from a company man.
Quess its trial and error time. Think I will do as you said and get the H2 as it can be lighted with pellet changes to a H.
Oneye I changed to a use rra smooth mid-lenght freefloat tube a small gas block and forgot to measure the darn hole in the barrel or block. But it runs the same too.
Thanks all for some insight.
Japes You undersatnd. But I also just have messed with the motors in cars and bikes too. HA.
Quentin I did have a talk with one of s&w m&p rifle guys yesterday afternoon, not a cs guys. It took a few days wait for a call back. He did say that the sports were over gased to run with a wide range of ammo relieably. Said if I wanted to change buffers that was fine but they did not sell any heavier. Suprizeing to hear that from a management guy. He said it would ether work or stop functioning reliably and then lighten it back up. Just what I wanted to here from a company man.
Quess its trial and error time. Think I will do as you said and get the H2 as it can be lighted with pellet changes to a H.
Oneye I changed to a use rra smooth mid-lenght freefloat tube a small gas block and forgot to measure the darn hole in the barrel or block. But it runs the same too.
Thanks all for some insight.
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Oneye I have taken my buffer apart to weight the slugs in it to see whats there now . All the same weight. That set me off looking for just tungsten slugs. Thought about cutting up a couple 12ga heavy shot shells ,half tungsten shot in them. Figured I better ask a few questions first before carving up 20 dollars worth of turkey loads to get the tungsten out. Searching for the best buy in a H2 buffer now.
Guess where i will be looking. Thanks.
All I saw was and over priced one.
I do have a older shooter near me that I would bet I can use one of his buffers at his home range to see how it works out. He has a pile of ar parts and rifles. Try that fiest and maybe save some money.
All I saw was and over priced one.
I do have a older shooter near me that I would bet I can use one of his buffers at his home range to see how it works out. He has a pile of ar parts and rifles. Try that fiest and maybe save some money.
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Rifle Buffer Weighted .223 Carbine Stock Aluminum | eBay
This is the one I purchased, it actually weighed 4.3 oz
This is the one I purchased, it actually weighed 4.3 oz
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