Sport II question - is this spring from the rifle??

For those who are new to an AR platform and aren't quite sure about line of sight, bullet trajectory and zero, I would suggest using this ballistics calculator until you are familiar with the basics.

Select Bullet caliber (.223 Remington). Select Bullet Name

Then click "Advanced Options"

Manually enter Zero Range and Sight over Bore of 2.5in. Then manually enter Distance to Show (that's total yards to show on the graph) and Distance Step (each distance to get a measure of bullet drop). Click the Enter button.

Doing so will eventually take the mystery and myth out what zero will best serve your needs. Ballistic Calculator GunData.org
 
Video is a good exercise in simply plotting the results of a ballistics calculator such as the example earlier in the thread. Nice illustration.
 
What the graph ChattanoogaPhil posts illustrated is what the military calls 'Battlesight Zero' (BZO), or the setting which should cause a shot to hit a human-sized target at 'normal' combat ranges without holdover or sight adjustment.
As the graph shows, a 25 yard zero allows this, and has the benefit of allowing useful live-fire training at reduced ranges.
 
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This is another illustration for 25, 50 and 100 yard zero to help determine what might best fit your needs.

For me, I live in the heavy woods of Tennessee and use a 1x red for center mass fast target acquisition and fire. No fuss no precision... simply point and click. Using the 50yd zero keeps the bullet path right in my line of sight staying within 2 inches above or below out to about 200yds or so. This works for the terrain, optic, and what I expect from my rifle.

If I lived in the desert I wouldn't be using a red dot but rather a magnified scope with BDC that has a manufacture required zero to match the reticle.

There is no perfect zero for all. Only what best fits your needs.

 
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Hey dudes, couple of quick updates.

1) The rifle works, so that tiny spring is pretty much confirmed as not being from the gun.

2) I was definitely under-educated on sight zeroing, and after the extremely helpful posts here I would like to think that I am better informed.

While I did get a chance to fire it this past weekend, I didn't really have the chance or the right gear to zero in my sights properly. I forgot my rifle rest, and was backyard shooting so didn't have any way to conform the 50 yard target distance. With all that said, the iron sights seemed to put the bullet pretty damn close to where I was aiming so the factory zero was good enough to have some fun.

Next trip to the range I'll actually take my time to do a proper 50 yard zero, I think that's the most practical option for me at the moment.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 
Glad everything is working on you rifle and you are enjoying it. Each person's zero preference is purely that, a preference based on your needs. For me and how I practice and for any SD scenario, I like my 100 yard zero because it simplifies aiming. All I ever have to worry about if not a 100 yards is how much holdover to use whether it be under 100 yds or over 100 yds. It really simplifies things.
 
Remember to keep the height of your sights over bore in mind, especially for barricade and REALLY close shooting. ;)
 
Hey dudes, couple of quick updates.

1) The rifle works, so that tiny spring is pretty much confirmed as not being from the gun.

2) I was definitely under-educated on sight zeroing, and after the extremely helpful posts here I would like to think that I am better informed.

While I did get a chance to fire it this past weekend, I didn't really have the chance or the right gear to zero in my sights properly. I forgot my rifle rest, and was backyard shooting so didn't have any way to conform the 50 yard target distance. With all that said, the iron sights seemed to put the bullet pretty damn close to where I was aiming so the factory zero was good enough to have some fun.

Next trip to the range I'll actually take my time to do a proper 50 yard zero, I think that's the most practical option for me at the moment.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

You don't need a lot of extra gear to get your rifle zeroed at 50 yards. Get down on the ground and shoot from the prone position and you will be stable enough to get a good zero, if you watch your sight picture, breathing, and trigger control.

If you don't have access to a 50 yard range you can get a 50 yard zero at 10 yards, point of impact should be about 1.9 inches below point of aim at ten (10) yards in order to be on at 50 yards. Then you can confirm and make any fine adjustments when you get to a 50 yard range. This works with 16 inch carbines, with standard height sights. I have tried it a few times with no issues. [ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P-FUsH8jt6E[/ame]
 
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