Spring kit or not?

prairieviper

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I use a Model 29-10 for bowling pin shooting and have been considering installing a spring kit to reduce the double action pull. The OEM trigger is smooth but the double action pull could be a bit lighter so that I could speed up my shooting a bit. I know there are several companies that market spring kits including Jerry Miculek, Wilson Combat and Wolff. I'm looking for opinions from anyone having experience with any of these and your opinion on whether it's worth it or would I be better off sending my 29 to S&W for an action job.

Thanks in advance!
 
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Since this is a game gun, I'd suggest starting with the springs first since it's cheaper and faster than an action job. I haven't used aftermarket springs in revolvers, but for semi-autos I've always used Wolff springs. I think they've been making springs longer than the other aftermarket spring makers (someone correct me if I'm wrong). But I don't think you'll go wrong with any of the brands you mentioned. I'd probably pick one of the "tune-up" kits that provide springs with a variety of weights so you can experiment and find the right combo of spring weights that'll give you the results you want while still maintaining reliability.

If you still can't get the results you want after experimenting with the springs, then it might be worth it to have an action job done.
 
I sent my 4" model 686-6 back to S&W for the revolver action package. Took about two months and ran me about 165 bux. They chamfered the cylinder holes, installed a non adjustable trigger stop (They adjusted it to correct size at the factory) and polished the internals and crane boss. The trigger pull is silly slick & smooth. Not lighter, But greased butter on black ice smooth. Honestly, this was my 4th pistol I sent to S&W and each one came back better than out of the box new.
 
You've got some great replies back to this question. I use a Wolff spring kit in my 627-5 Performance Center gun. This revolver had a nice factory trigger, but I wanted it to be a little better. I also use this gun for bowling pins. Go ahead and purchase the kit that was suggested above from Wolff. You will get a reduced power main/hammer spring, and three different weights of reduced power trigger return springs. Try all three and see which one gives you the best feeling trigger, while not being too light and not returning the trigger fast enough. You will also have to make sure that the ammunition that you are shooting at pins, doesn't have a hard primer. I have light strikes some times, but have very good results with Blazer Brass .357 158 grain Semi-Jacketed Hollow Points. Now to brag a little. The picture is of my timer and the 627-5 after shooting a plate rack that I ran with this revolver. It was 6 plates at 10 yards from low ready. That's the fastest time I've ever shot with it.
 

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You've got some great replies back to this question. I use a Wolff spring kit in my 627-5 Performance Center gun. This revolver had a nice factory trigger, but I wanted it to be a little better. I also use this gun for bowling pins. Go ahead and purchase the kit that was suggested above from Wolff. You will get a reduced power main/hammer spring, and three different weights of reduced power trigger return springs. Try all three and see which one gives you the best feeling trigger, while not being too light and not returning the trigger fast enough. You will also have to make sure that the ammunition that you are shooting at pins, doesn't have a hard primer. I have light strikes some times, but have very good results with Blazer Brass .357 158 grain Semi-Jacketed Hollow Points. Now to brag a little. The picture is of my timer and the 627-5 after shooting a plate rack that I ran with this revolver. It was 6 plates at 10 yards from low ready. That's the fastest time I've ever shot with it.
As a fellow plate rack shooter I must say that's an impressive time .
 
There are many ways to smooth out and lighten your DA, as mentioned sometimes 'smoother' is better than lighter.
I dropped you a PM with some thoughts to share from experience.

Curious, have you had your sideplate off on your revolver to clean and lube? I have used Neco Moly lube and that alone will reduce friction, proven by my digital trigger gage. You might start with some basics first then modify with springs. If you call Wolff and talk to tech dept you will get some very good guidance too.

I haven't shot pins or plates but I imagine any change in trigger pull will affect timing at first on your targets. Have fun, a well tuned revolver is a pretty impressive tool to shoot with!
Karl
 
I'm not an advocate of cutting springs or grinding the mainspring on a S&W revolver. I've always had good experiences with Wolff spring kits. S&W, Ruger. Also, I'd suggest polishing the two sides of the return spring housing where they rub on the frame.. A little 1000 grit wet/dry and oil on a flat surface (lightly) will improve things noticeably. I've watched Jerry Miculek's YouTube Video about grinding the strain screw, and have thought...maybe not. Miculek KNOWS what he is doing...me, not so much. Good luck with your spring set!
 
Many years ago I replaced the mainspring in my 6" 686-4 with a Wolff standard ribbed mainspring and the triggervreturn spring with a 14Ib one. The result was quite a few "Who did your trigger job" comments.

After more than 15 years I started to get failures to fire with Federal large rifle primers (I was using slow burning pistol powder) so I replaced both springs again, this time with a 13Ib return spring. When light primer strikes continued I replaced the triggervreturn spring with an 8-32 X 1/2" hex head screw. The trigger is still smooth, light and no more primer misfires.
 
Thanks Nick B. I'm a full time firearms instructor and law enforcement trainer. I get the benefit of some time on the range.
 
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