The strain screw is suppose to be tight - period. If the factory thought a lighter spring was needed, it would come that way. But liability wise, they want the gun to go off every time you pull the trigger.
Spring kits for S&W revolvers.
- Thread starter LoboGunLeather
- Start date
The strain screw is suppose to be tight - period. If the factory thought a lighter spring was needed, it would come that way. But liability wise, they want the gun to go off every time you pull the trigger.
If the strain screw is "backed off" and left that way, harmonics from the action cycling and firing (or dry firing) will eventually result in the screw becoming looser and looser until the threshold of unreliability is surpassed and the gun stops working.
Mainspring tension can always be carefully tweaked by using a shorter or longer screw if needed or desired.....but the screw should be tightened fully when the gun is reassembled.
As always, when you make a change, be sure to test and verify under carry conditions (aka: the elements) with your reloads or carry ammunition. Each revolver is different, and spring ratings do not always give the desired effect "across the board". Test and verify.
Remember also that if you do make changes in terms of spring ratings, this lighter spring rate dictates a more aggressive approach in terms of cleaning and maintenance, especially when dealing with carry firearms.
Mainspring tension can always be carefully tweaked by using a shorter or longer screw if needed or desired.....but the screw should be tightened fully when the gun is reassembled.
As always, when you make a change, be sure to test and verify under carry conditions (aka: the elements) with your reloads or carry ammunition. Each revolver is different, and spring ratings do not always give the desired effect "across the board". Test and verify.
Remember also that if you do make changes in terms of spring ratings, this lighter spring rate dictates a more aggressive approach in terms of cleaning and maintenance, especially when dealing with carry firearms.
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One point about spring changes. The reduced power hammer/mainsprings are intended to be used with unaltered strain screws.
With a different brand of reduced power springs, I also discovered that in long strings-100 or so rounds-toward the end, the tension of the spring was decreasing noticeably. I initially thought it was operator error caused by fatigue, but the trigger scale confirmed the change in tension. It'd recover, but the let down wasn't a good thing.
With a different brand of reduced power springs, I also discovered that in long strings-100 or so rounds-toward the end, the tension of the spring was decreasing noticeably. I initially thought it was operator error caused by fatigue, but the trigger scale confirmed the change in tension. It'd recover, but the let down wasn't a good thing.
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Grayfox
US Veteran
I've tinkered with revolver springs in the past. I've found that lighter rebound springs can make trigger pull considerably better. However, you need to experiment with spring weights to get the right balance between trigger pull and reliable reset. It can be a fine line.
I've never found an aftermarket main spring that was worth a damn. Every one I ever tried resulted in light strikes. Often its completely unpredictable. Sometimes it works and sometimes it don't.
Stick to factory main springs only.
I've never found an aftermarket main spring that was worth a damn. Every one I ever tried resulted in light strikes. Often its completely unpredictable. Sometimes it works and sometimes it don't.
Stick to factory main springs only.
Go to the top of the forum under notable thread index see Revolver Trigger job questions and read http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-sm...html?highlight=Revolver+Trigger+Job+Questions
It will answer all of your questions with the actual pages from the S&W Armorers manual.
Stu
It will answer all of your questions with the actual pages from the S&W Armorers manual.
Stu
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