Squib load

Spurdann

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Looking for opinions.
I loaded up six rounds of 45 auto rim with about 4.0 gr of HP38.
Not too concerned about exact amount of powder, all six were the same. Fourth round was a squib. Now I am to the question, would you load six more rounds and see if you got another squib or would you junk the powder? If I had loaded a thousand rounds I would lean towards opererator error, but with only six rounds I am leaning towards blaming the powder, which means expensive fertilizer.

Thanks for all input.
 
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I would be more likely to worry about my primers than the powder.
I did have an issue one time with cases that got ultrasonic cleaned and then (I thought) dried and run through a progressive loader. I had several squib or other dud rounds and concluded there must have been moisture left in the primer pocket since the components worked fine in other situations.
 
I think it's far more likely to be a no-powder squib than a problem with the powder. You don't mention the bullet weight, but that's a very light load for any .45 AR bullet weight. Where did the bullet end up? No-powder squibs usually end up with the bullet stuck in the forcing cone, tying up the revolver. Was that what happened or was the bullet farther down the barrel or did it make it out of the barrel? Was there unburned powder in the case or was it empty? Do you have any other reason to think the powder might be bad? If the powder were a problem, it's hard to see why the other 5 rounds fired normally.
 
One round out of four-six isn't enough to determine if you have a bad component. I would load a few more (two cylinders full) and weigh each powder charge using a book load, measure/inspect bullets, and closely inspect your primers and priming method. Go slow to make sure you don't fire another round after a squib, and don't forget to pack your range rod...
 
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My light .45 ACP 230-grain LRN range loads with HP-38 are usually 5.1-5.2 grains of powder. Four grains is a really light load, more like what I use in a 9mm load.
 
If the bullet lodged in the barrel and you removed it from the bore, examine the base.

IOf the base is dirty, there was no powder. If the base is clean, there wa powder, and you may have noticed powder in/on the gun after firing the round.

If the indication is that there was no powder, there is no reason to suspect the powder.

Also, did you happen to be shooting down at the time?
 
OK, the bullet weight is 230gr, using current data I did use 4.3gr of 231.
Cases were deprimed, tumbled and then sized, primed and loaded.
Primers and powder have been climate controlled since I have owned them. Based on at I am reading, I will load six up at 4.8gr and see how they shoot.
Please continue to comment
 
Shooting down? Please elaborate.

If the bullet lodged in the barrel and you removed it from the bore, examine the base.

IOf the base is dirty, there was no powder. If the base is clean, there wa powder, and you may have noticed powder in/on the gun after firing the round.

If the indication is that there was no powder, there is no reason to suspect the powder.

Also, did you happen to be shooting down at the time?
 
Some cartridges, having a large air space, notably the 38 Special, with some powders, can yield squibs whjen shooting down, with the powder away from the primer.

At least one factory I'm familiar with would do a shoot down test when looking at new powders for the 38 Special to avoil powders that would give such results.

I don't think that was the situation here, but thought I would ask as it may have played a part.

In somewhat similar fashion, when pressure testing ammunition, the procedure includes assuring the powder is next to the primer for firing.
 
Little more info, Dad bought this pistol in Alaska in the 60s, it has been "under the bed" for years and now that he is 84, I have the guns but I "have to take him shooting" and yes it is his ammo so I am dealing with a lot of trauma (sarc) anyhow, I have plenty of 45acp to exercise the revolver with but I for some silly reason want to shoot auto rim in it. It makes both of us smile.
 
I've never gone that light with HP-38/231 with any weight bullet in .45 ACP/Auto Rim. You may not be getting a good burn and muzzle velocity is probably under 700 fps. Also, if you go too light and bullets are slow (especially with jacketed), you risk sticking a bullet in the bore.

As I recall reading somewhere years ago, the pros say .45 bullets need to be somewhere in the 725 -775 fps range for for best target load accuracy. That's a pretty general statement, but maybe there is some truth to it. I try to stay around 750 fps for a .45 Target load with a 200 grain cast bullet. I prefer Bullseye powder because I've gotten best accuracy with it, but HP-38/ 231 should also work well.
 
Squib ...no powder in case ?

Squib ... powder in case but primer failed to to go off ?

Squib ... powder in case , primer ignited but powder failed to burn ?

Let's define what you mean by " squib" ...might be primer problem , might be powder problem or it just might be operator error .
Do you have a bullet puller ?

Nine times out of ten the operator didn't put powder in a case ... but no one wants to hear that ... So lets just say Global Warming caused it , go on and try to be a lot more careful about getting one charge of powder in each and every case from here on out .

Powder stored "under the bed" is probably in good condition , if it doesn't smell "bad" and have what looks like "red rust" in the powder it hasn't started to break down ...under the bed is a cool dry place . Smell a couple of your newer powders and you will know what "good " powder smells like ... Bad powder smells sharp , acrid, unpleasant odor .. good powder smells "good" ...pleasant . Powders stored cool , dark & dry have a long shelf life ... I'm using powders from the 50's & 60's right now .
If it smells good and Looks good use it ... double check that you are using a published starting load ... Too light can be a problem ... the primer flashes over the too light charge & it doesn't ignite.
Gary
Just checked Lyman Manual #4 / 225 grain cast bullet / 45 AR
starting load was 4.4 grs HP38 / 231 .
I would bump it up to a minimum 4.5 grains and tilt the pistol muzzle up before each shot to get the powder back against the primer . This sometimes helps with accuracy .
Your proposed load of 4.8 grs. should be just the ticket with 230 jacketed bullet .
Gary
 
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Squib ...no powder in case ?

Squib ... powder in case but primer failed to to go off ?

Squib ... powder in case , primer ignited but powder failed to burn ?

Let's define what you mean by " squib" ...might be primer problem , might be powder problem or it just might be operator error .
Do you have a bullet puller ?

Nine times out of ten the operator didn't put powder in a case ... but no one wants to hear that ... So lets just say Global Warming caused it , go on and try to be a lot more careful about getting one charge of powder in each and every case from here on out .

Powder stored "under the bed" is probably in good condition , if it doesn't smell "bad" and have what looks like "red rust" in the powder it hasn't started to break down ...under the bed is a cool dry place . Smell a couple of your newer powders and you will know what "good " powder smells like ... Bad powder smells sharp , acrid, unpleasant odor .. good powder smells "good" ...pleasant . Powders stored cool , dark & dry have a long shelf life ... I'm using powders from the 50's & 60's right now .
If it smells good and Looks good use it ... double check that you are using a published starting load ... Too light can be a problem ... the primer flashes over the too light charge & it doesn't ignite.
Gary
Just checked Lyman Manual #4 / 225 grain cast bullet / 45 AR
starting load was 4.4 grs HP38 / 231 .
I would bump it up to a minimum 4.5 grains and tilt the pistol muzzle up before each shot to get the powder back against the primer . This sometimes helps with accuracy .
Your proposed load of 4.8 grs. should be just the ticket with 230 jacketed bullet .
Gary
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
This, exactly!
 
I am really surprised that you got four loads to cycle the slide with that amount of powder, that is too low for 99% of the bullets made, for this pistol.

Did you get this data from a manual?
 
I was able to determine that the powder was the culprit.

As far as load data, I used lee data for auto rim.

Thanks to all for your input.
 
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