squib rods?

[m75rlg]

What are you guys using for squib rods?

I recently had my first squib after approaching 50 years of shooting and 35 years of reloading. I managed to destroy a couple joints of shotgun cleaning rods and a couple lengths of hardwood dowels in a .44 magnum, before carefully padding a 60d nail with an approximately .40 head and gingerly sliding it down the barrell upside down.

I was looking at the Brownells rods at $29 each and wondering if I couldn't get a couple of brass (or aluminun) rods (5/16" (.3125") to use for .357/38/9mm and a 3/8" (.375") for .44/.45) cheeper.

I was thinking I could even work down some brass screws to thread in the end to fit the ogive of the bullets I load.

Or would I be better off to just ask for the commercial squib rods for my Christmas present if asked?

Thanks,

What are your thoughts and experiences.

 

[H Richard]

Make your own from brass rod just smaller than what will freely pass through your bore. I made up a .38 and .45 rod 20+ years ago, and they have only been used once, but very valuable at that one time. I put a large round wood on the end of each, a few smacks and a squib is out. Leave it a couple inch's longer than your longest barrel for each caliber.

 

[john traveler]

Go to a machine shop metal supplier and get yourself some drill rod. It comes in a variety of diameters to fit your common bullet sizes.

It is sufficiently hard and spring enough to resist deforming when you rap on it against the stuck bullet. Be sure to grind a bevel on each end so it doesn't end up gouging your bore.

Brass rod is okay too, but it needs to be close to bore diameter to resist bending.

As with most bullet-stuck-in-bore problems, a squirt of penetrating oil and waiting a few minutes to punch it out is a better action than simply bashing on a bullet stuck in a fouled bore.

 

[m75rlg]

"As with most bullet-stuck-in-bore problems, a squirt of penetrating oil and waiting a few minutes to punch it out is a better action than simply bashing on a bullet stuck in a fouled bore."

I hadn't heard/thought of that!

 

[Wee Hooker]

Simple hardwood dowel just smaller than the bore works for me. 5/16" for .38 and 7/16" for 45 as I recall. Insert in bore, put dowel base on flat surface ans slide gun up/down as required to free the bullet. Cheap, functional and won't beat up your bore or muzzle.

 

[MrPhil]

Made mine out of aluminum bar stock I had. Counter sunk the business end to avoid expanding a stuck hollow point.

 

[500 Magnum Nut]

3 pc M16 cleaning rod I carry in the range bag.
Of all the years of shooting. I needed it only once. This time I had the other bag so I asked a fellow shooter if they had a cleaning rod. I asked them if they mind that I bump it to remove a bullet in the forcing cone. I paid him for his help by letting him burn up some 50 cal ammo.

 

[Ignatz]

Years back, a shooter gave me two squib rods (.38, .45) made of "Delrin" or Teflon. Basically hard plastic that holds up and does not harm the barrel. I do like the post saying to put a little penetrating oil in the barrel before tapping out the slug.

 

[skeezix]

Brass for me

I carry a 12" length 1/4" brass rod in my range bag. Used it twice in 40 years - once on a .38 special and once on a 9MM. Both squib bullets were about an inch into the barrel, so I slowly tapped them out from the muzzle end.

I hadn't thought of the penetrating oil, either. I usually have a can of Kroil with me, but I hope to never again having to use it or the brass rod for a squib.

 

[Bailey Boat]

For those that use wooden dowel rods, use an empty casing over the end that you're hitting and it saves the dowel.