Stainless Model 36?

[DetectiveCallahan]

Hello, first forum here! In February I purchased a used Model 36 that seems to be in good condition. From earlier research I believe it is an early 1960s, but am not sure. It did not have any paperwork or box with it and has Pachmayr grips on it. Today when I was doing some research I saw some people telling someone else a Model 36 should not be stainless. It does in fact say Mod-36, and magnets will stick to it. I have heard that I should send off for a letter to the historical society, and probably will, but just want to see what information I can get from the forum. The serial number is 268671, the numbers on the crane are 6 44 03, under that is an 8, and below and to the right of that is 4. The 8 appears on the left lower side of the frame under the grip, and on the right side is a 1. I will post some pictures as well. Thank you all in advanced. Also, it does have a pinned barrel.

 

[sigp220.45]

Hello, first forum here! In February I purchased a used Model 36 that seems to be in good condition. From earlier research I believe it is an early 1960s, but am not sure. It did not have any paperwork or box with it and has Pachmayr grips on it. Today when I was doing some research I saw some people telling someone else a Model 36 should not be stainless. It does in fact say Mod-36, and magnets will stick to it. I have heard that I should send off for a letter to the historical society, and probably will, but just want to see what information I can get from the forum. The serial number is 268671, the numbers on the crane are 6 44 03, under that is an 8, and below and to the right of that is 4. The 8 appears on the left lower side of the frame under the grip, and on the right side is a 1. I will post some pictures as well. Thank you all in advanced. Also, it does have a pinned barrel.

I'd say that is a nice Model 36 with an aftermarket finish. (A very well-done finish) I don't think a letter will tell you much.

Here's mine. I got tired of it rusting, so I had it refinished in NP3. Then it got run over by a car, hence its many boo-boos.

 

[BC38]

Looks like a hard-chrome refinish. Armalloy or something similar.
Beautiful little pistol BTW. If someone had to refinish it, that would have to be the best possible option IMO.

 

[Alk8944]

^^^^^^


What Sigp22.45 said. If it was stainless it would be a Model 60.

 

[murphydog]

Welcome! Agree on the refinish answer; it appears to have chipped off the back lower edge of the grip frame, which would argue against it being hard chrome.

The serial number puts it from sometime in 1962, and well before the first model 60s (early 400,000 SN range in late 1965). Enjoy!

 

[DetectiveCallahan]

Update

Forgot to mention it does have some light “freckling” and the extractor is blued. Also there is bluing or marking on the cylinder where it touches the barrel.

 

[hkcavalier]

I thought my 34-1 might be some stainless unicorn until someone here told me about those chrome finishes that were popular in the '70s. Lightly polished it certainly looks exactly like stainless.

 

[DetectiveCallahan]

Well, thank you everyone for the information and the pictures of the beautiful guns. Since my unicorn turned out to be a horse with an ice cream cone on its head, was $650 too much to pay for it with tax? I do still like it and am happy with my purchase.

 

[Art Doc]

I will withhold comment.

 

[Frank121]

"I do still like it and am happy with my purchase."

That is what matters.

Well, thank you everyone for the information and the pictures of the beautiful guns. Since my unicorn turned out to be a horse with an ice cream cone on its head, was $650 too much to pay for it with tax? I do still like it and am happy with my purchase.

 

[Pisgah]

Yep, that's an aftermarket finish. Magnetic/non-magnetic is NOT a way to tell if something is stainless or not, though. It is true that some grades of stainless steel, like those used to build refrigerators and stuff like that, are non-magnetic. But firearms-grade stainless is as magnetic as any other.

 

[gwpercle]

Well, thank you everyone for the information and the pictures of the beautiful guns. Since my unicorn turned out to be a horse with an ice cream cone on its head, was $650 too much to pay for it with tax? I do still like it and am happy with my purchase.

If you like it , I like it , and are happy ...heck NO , you didn't pay too much .
Prices vary all over the country and you take what deal you can when it pops up . So what if it sells for less on the other side of the country...you aren't there !
You have a nice shooter and you don't have to worry much about the finish ...shoot and enjoy .
Gary

 

[k22fan]

Welcome to the forum.

This is a recurring question. You're not the first to be confused by the appearance of thin hard chrome.

Let's see if I can add anything that you do not already know. 6 44 03 is its assembly number. It will also be on the back side of the side plate. Yokes and side plates are fitted to frames before the frames are given serial numbers. Assembly numbers are used to get the fitted parts back together with the correct frame after they are separated for things like bluing.

Now that you've signed up here you'll need a Model 29 to go with your screen name.

 

[pawncop]

I have a model 57 I acquired from my former chief he carried as a deputy sheriff and it has a NiTex finish and looks like stainless.

 

[GerSan69]

Well, thank you everyone for the information and the pictures of the beautiful guns. Since my unicorn turned out to be a horse with an ice cream cone on its head, was $650 too much to pay for it with tax? I do still like it and am happy with my purchase.

About double, give or take $50, sorry.

 

[BC38]

Well, thank you everyone for the information and the pictures of the beautiful guns. Since my unicorn turned out to be a horse with an ice cream cone on its head, was $650 too much to pay for it with tax? I do still like it and am happy with my purchase.

The most important thing is that you are happy with it. A few bucks one way or another won't change that long term.

That being said, for my area you overpaid. A pristine model 36 with original finish, serial numbered grips, box, documentation, tools, and all would sell for $500-$600.

Even though the hard chrome is the most desirable re-finish (to me any way) it is still a refinish - which negates any collector value. So for my area, with none of the previously listed accoutrements and an after market finish that would be a $300-$400 gun.

As I said before, as long as the fact that you could probably have got it for less doesn't bother you, and you still like and enjoy the gun, that is the most important thing. 10 years from now what you paid for it won't matter - having enjoyed it for 10 years will.

 

[DetectiveCallahan]

Well, thank you everybody. I didn’t ask how much it was worth because I don’t like it, just wanted to know for the next time what to spend. Should’ve done more research ahead of time, but I saw it and immediately fell in love with it. I have had better luck with buying used guns, like my pinned and recessed Model 65. I think it is a 65-2. I don’t buy my guns for the resell value, but don’t want to spend way too much on any of them.

 

[nbedford]

Just a seeker of knowledge here, but would a Model 36 of that age normally have a flat latch? I was thinking that was a pre-Model 36 thing.

 

[DetectiveCallahan]

Well, that’s possible. It actually seems a little loose and gets in the way of a speed loader. Will probably get it looked because of that and it seems a little stiff when opening.

 

[JP@AK]

Just a seeker of knowledge here, but would a Model 36 of that age normally have a flat latch? I was thinking that was a pre-Model 36 thing.

The flat latch lasted all the way up to 1966, so yes, tons of Model 36 revolvers had them.

This one is from 1964:

 

[Double-O-Dave]

Hi Detective Callahan:

Welcome to the Forum.

A few comments and suggestions regarding some of the things you mentioned in your threads:

#6: Also there is bluing or marking on the cylinder where it touches the barrel.

If you're referring to your 2nd (middle) photo, what you are seeing are the carbon deposits (aka carbon rings) that result from firing the revolver. Some people like to remove them from the face of the cylinder, but I chose not to do so. Instead, I will lightly brush the face of the cylinder with an old toothbrush loaded with gunpowder solvent, and then brush that off with an old rag.

#17: I don’t buy my guns for the resell value, but don’t want to spend way too much on any of them.

What might be helpful is to do searches here for the rough market values of whatever firearm you're hoping to purchase in the future. Of course, actual sales prices are good references, but with all of the variables involved in assessing a used firearm for purchase, I find it handy to have a few generalizations to help me. As an example, for S&W J-frame revolvers, assuming they are in good condition, I ballpark them from $300.00 to $500.00. I'm not a collector, so the box, documents, etc. don't mean much to me, and I won't pay extra for them - I also wouldn't turn them down if the seller offers them to me. For S&W K-frame revolvers, generally, the longer the barrel, the lower the price.

#19: It actually seems a little loose and gets in the way of a speed loader. Will probably get it looked because of that and it seems a little stiff when opening.

Speed loaders and J-frames are usually a difficult proposition - there just isn't a whole lot of room to work with there. A lot of people, myself included, use speed strips instead of speed loaders as the speed strips are easier to carry (flat vs round), and easier and faster to load with. You can also just resort to the infamous "New York reload" - drawing a second, loaded handgun when the first one needs to be reloaded - which is what I do whenever I'm able to. Also, it sounds like your Model 36 could stand a good detailed cleaning and oiling. I'd seek a local gunsmith for his/her advice and services. This shouldn't cost much to do and I think you'll see the benefits.

Good luck,

Dave