Steel Target Construction

[skrazo]

I shoot Swinging Steel Targets made from 7/16" to 1/2" thick steel, round, and from 6" to 8" in diameter. Shoot 38+P and 357 "lower end" loads. The targets take a long time to stop moving after being hit (I know, I should just learn to hit them while moving - - ). Was thinking of hanging a weight from the bottom of each one. Would just experiment with amount of weight until finding the ideal amount. Anybody here do anything like this?

 

[rojodiablo]

Not exactly sure how to explain this, but I will try. Tomorrow, maybe by Wed. at the latest, I am going to post some steel target pics and a little lesson on power & penetration. (HINT: There are going to be 2 groups who will be VERY unhappy with the results, and 1 group who will smile and nod that knowing grin and smirk of "Repsect your elders". The 3 groups will be: AR500 fan boys. AR15 fan boys. And those who subscribe to the theory that the 30-06 was the finest rifle round ever invented.)

Anyway, I use either 1/4" or 3/8" steel. Say the plate is 10" x10". At about 1/4" down from the top, on the backside, I will weld on a piece of square tube. I will tack weld the bottom of the square tube and then roll the tube backwards to maybe 10-15 degrees. This will make the tube sit with a slight cant outward and upward with one of the edges of the square. What this does is promote the target to always cant the bottom of the target just a little downward. I run a piece of cheap rebar thru the square and put it into whatever kind of stake, post, ring rod, whatever to allow the target to swing freely. When hit anywhere respectably on the bottom 2/3 of the target, the round is always deflected downwards.
If you just weld the square flat on the back, the target swings more than you want, and it does not always easily deflect the stubborn rounds downward. The goofy angle ruins the plates' desire to swing for half a lifetime and allows immediate follow up shots.

 

[coltle6920]

I shoot steel targets for both my handguns and AR15.The targets for my handguns are 1/4" AR500 steel and 3/8" AR500 for the AR15. I use a shepherd's hook for handguns and get minimal movement. I'll hang the larger targets for my AR15 because they're shot farther away and still don't move much.

The shepherds hooks can be found at places like Lowe's and Home Depot in the garden center and come in different heights.They work great for shooting handguns. I tried them with my AR15 at 100yds and ended up splitting the hook in two with a misplaced shot.

Here's a picture of a shepherds hook holding an 8" target...

 

[rojodiablo]

Coltle, that is a great way to hang a plate!

My sons, on the other hand, would bet money who would cut the stand in half first, and then explain to me how it was a lucky accidental shot!!

 

[1morethan8]

Weld a "stop" at the pivot so the target will not swing forward passed vertical.

 

[Ivan the Butcher]

At a range I shoot at, an example of a High Power plate is a 1" thick, 12" round plate, swings free to the rear and has a Log chain tether to abate swinging. I hit it with a 338 Lapua 300 gr at 800 yards and it returns to stable after one swing. I hit a 4" x 6" stake mounted freshly painted plate at 500 yards and blasted ALL the paint off, but the stake held. Ivan

 

[coltle6920]

Coltle, that is a great way to hang a plate!

My sons, on the other hand, would bet money who would cut the stand in half first, and then explain to me how it was a lucky accidental shot!!

No problems yet with the handguns doing any damage but we did snap a few hooks at 100yds just from fragment ricochets.My friends neighbor works in a machine shop and also shoots.I'd like to come up with something that is more durable but portable at the same time.

 

[coltle6920]

At a range I shoot at, an example of a High Power plate is a 1" thick, 12" round plate, swings free to the rear and has a Log chain tether to abate swinging. I hit it with a 338 Lapua 300 gr at 800 yards and it returns to stable after one swing. I hit a 4" x 6" stake mounted freshly painted plate at 500 yards and blasted ALL the paint off, but the stake held. Ivan

My friend has 35acres but it's rolling land.The only straight line of sight we have is about 250yds.Anything else would have a neighbor's house or their horses in the background.

 

[islamoradamark]

at 500 yards on a plate i always carry spray paint to see fresh hits

 

[skrazo]

This is a "typical" pic of my target set up.......not actually where I shoot. OH, and you "Northern Boys", please don't send any more of that "white stuff".

 

[Aticus]

This is a "typical" pic of my target set up.......not actually where I shoot. OH, and you "Northern Boys", please don't send any more of that "white stuff".

Wazzup, you southern boys can't take a little white stuff? I'll keep the white stuff if you'll take the blasted cold.

For your OP I've seen plates held up with 2 chains. That might solve you swinging problem.

 

[coltle6920]

at 500 yards on a plate i always carry spray paint to see fresh hits

You must have a long nozzle on that paint can! I can't walk 500yds let alone shoot that far.

 

[Salty RI]

I think if you hung a bird feeder from them, it would be more fun.

 

[brucev]

I've not ever made any steel targets. However, I have shot a lot of old worn out harrow blades with handguns ranging from .22 LR up to .45ACP at distances from say 4-5 yds. out to 25 yds. Some of the blades crack in half, but it takes many thousands of rounds to crack one. I shot one plate about 3,000 rds. w/ a Glock 22 using ball ammo before it cracked in half. Lead bullets are to soft to do any damage. Leaned against a concrete block or truck hub, you can shoot one of those harrow blades till your finger gets tired of pulling the trigger. Spray it with flat white appliance paint and aim at the axle hole. Out to 50 yds., that axle hole makes a good aiming mark. After you fire a group, photograph it w/ the cell camera and repaint.