Sticky cylinder release

[crazysccrmd1]

I recently picked up another old 1905 for cheap. The cylinder release sometimes remains in the forward position when you close the cylinder and requires a jiggle of the cylinder to release. It doesn't happen every time but isn't hard to reproduce. I have fully disassembled and cleaned the revolver and everything should be gunk free and lubed. All of the springs seem to be in good condition as well. What should I be looking into as a cause and solution?

About the gun - sn 2897xx, 6", blued, fixed sights, grips aren't numbered but are the short style with the inlaid gold S&W disc, mushroom ejector, two line patents ending with Dec 29th '14, no Made in USA and no S&W trademark stamp on either side with no evidence of a refinish.

 

[The Kid]

I've seen the rod inside the ejector get peened to the point where it would stick in the ejector rod. If that is the case it can cause what you are describing. Might not be the case but it's worth a look.

 

[bruner1981]

I've seen the rod inside the ejector get peened to the point where it would stick in the ejector rod. If that is the case it can cause what you are describing. Might not be the case but it's worth a look.

I agree. Assuming that you removed and cleaned the cylinder release mechanism in your full disassembly, I'd say that the spring loaded pin sticking out of the back of the cylinder that locks into the frame (forgive the wordy explanation, I can't seem to remember the exact name right now) is a likely culprit. With the cylinder open, I would try just pressing on that pin and see if it sticks inside the cylinder and go from there

 

[H Richard]

I would be more inclined to think the "bolt" that the thumb release is attached to is the culprit. When you disassembled it, I assume your removed the bolt. In the back side of that bolt is a spring loaded pin that keeps the pressure on the assembly pushed forward. If the pin (and or the spring) is missing are gummed up and/or just worn out it could cause this problem.

 

[crazysccrmd1]

Spring pressure on the release is good and it moves freely. Same for the rod inside the ejector. I think I found the culprit. On the radiused cut on the recoil shield for the ejector star there is what looks to be some peening. This makes the cylinder not lock into place perfectly smooth every time. When it sticks and the release remains forward it takes just a slight amount of pressure pushing the cylinder into the frame for it to click and push the release rearward. It doesn't seem like caked lead but I'm soaking it and will get the pick out to see.

I tried getting pictures of it compared to my 1949 production.

1949 with a nice, sharp cut edge.



The one in question, mid 19teens production I believe.




Both pictured together.

 

[Hondo44]

The above members are on the right track. You need to isolate the problem to the thumb release bolt or the center pin in the extractor assembly inside the yoke shaft and cyl.

Check the front end of the release bolt for burrs preventing it from moving rearward when the cyl is closed; that's one common problem on old revolvers. if it works freely when pushed to the rear with a pin punch, it's good.

Disassemble extractor rod and look for gunk and burrs keeping the ctr pin from free movement. If it's slightly bent, it will not align with the bolt to push it to the rear when cyl is closed.

 

[crazysccrmd1]

Jim -

The thumb release bolt moves freely without binding or resistance. It is easily pushed to the rear with a punch and normal pressure applied.

The center pin in the extractor assembly moves smoothly and easily as well. The whole assembly has been taken apart, checked, cleaned and oiled. I suppose the pin could have a slight bend but if it does I can't tell.

I'm fairly confident the problem is what I pictured in the previous post. Everything else seems to move freely without binding, but the cylinder requires a little more pressure to click closed than normal.

 

[Hondo44]

I was typing when the photos were posted and didn't see them. You didn't tell us about that little divit in the end of the release bolt prior. It's surely going to catch the rounded tip of the center pin and after catching in that divit, it has to move 'uphill' to the center of the latch bolt face. Check by holding the latch to the rear and closing the cyl. If it goes all the way in without the extra nudge, that's the problem.

If it still needs the nudge to go all the way in with latch held to the rear, it's likely the yoke is bent. S&W factory trained gunsmiths correct that with a lead hammer. A 2 second minor repair, believe it or not.

 

[crazysccrmd1]

I wish I could take better pictures. The end of the release bolt is flat and doesn't cause a catch. The area I was trying to show was the end of the cutout for the ejector star, where it isn't a sharp, defined edge like the 1949 gun.

 

[chief38]

Until it's taken apart hard to know for sure, but looks like you will have to either de-burr or or replace to get it to operate smoothly. Looks like it either had some neglect or gun was not fit properly and abnormal wear took place.

 

[Hondo44]

I do see a white scratch pattern on the recoil shield where the cyl ratchets are scraping.

Remove the ctr pin, reinstall the extractor rod and check for contact in the center before the locking bolt. The beginning of the extractor star cutout that you mentioned has already been passed by the star by the time the cyl is almost closed where you feel the hang up, so that can't be the problem.

Stone or flat sand the rear ratchet surface so you no longer have contact at that point. It should not scrape the recoil shield. Then check it for scraping with 6 empty cases in the chambers.

 

[crazysccrmd1]

I got the chance to get to the range yesterday and took this along. Shot pretty well for a 100yr old revolver with a tiny sight notch. Load was 3gr Bullseye and a 148gr wadcutter. 10rds fired at 25 feet, single action.

The cylinder unlatched slightly from recoil a few times during the 25rds I fired. Would that indicate a need for replacement springs to keep the tension holding the center pin in place?