Sticky Trigger on Brand New M&P .38 Special

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First-time handgun owner here. Just bought a brand new S&W M&P .38 Special revolver and dry-fired it about 15 times when I got it home. 3-4 of those times, the trigger stuck in a position about 2 mm from the rear of the trigger guard and I don't believe the firing pin had activated. Each of those sticking trigger incidents occurred after I had opened and then reclosed the cylinder. I cannot duplicate the sticking failure today, but I'm concerned that it may come back at the most inopportune time.
More details:
1) This firearm is brand new, but had been a display model at the store.
2) I have not yet cleaned or lubricated this revolver, but the S&W lube procedure does not include the firing mechanism anyway.
3) I bought it at a store that does not accept returns and so I must mail it to S&W if I decide to return it for repair.
Questions:
Would you spend the time and shipping cost to return this to S&W?
Or maybe dry-fire a bunch more times and assume it was "brand new gun break-in stiffness" and it's fine if the problem cannot be duplicated?
Or maybe fire a few dozen rounds and see if the problem can be repeated?
Other thoughts?
 
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I purchased a 22 magnum (351C) about 6 months ago and the first couple of range days.....I had the same thing happen. I posted on here and was given the advice to keep firing the gun and the trigger would smooth out eventually and stop sticking.

That is exactly what happened. By my third range day, no more sticky trigger and have had about 4 additional range days of flawless operation
 
I doubt there would be a specific monetary cost. There would likely be the cost of a phone call; then there'd be the cost of driving to a FEDEX (or was it UPS) location; but S&W would more-than-likely email a prepaid shipping label.

When the revolver is returned, there'd be the cost of being home to sign for the package, unless it can be redirected to a pickup location/office for later pickup.

Let us know how it goes.
 
If it were mine, I would continue to dry fire and shoot at least 100 rounds before before I considered sending it back. It's been a long time since I bought a new S&W, but never had that particular problem.
 
Thank you for all of the great advice. I called S&W to get their opinion and they recommended that I send in the revolver to get it checked out. Great customer support. Yes, they sent a pre-paid shipping label, so it's not costing me a thing (okay, gas money to the FedEx drop and 4-6 weeks without the gun). The initial trigger sticking may have been fine after more firing, but I was concerned since it was a display model that may have been abused. Better safe than sorry since this will be my wife's bodyguard.
 
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Before you dry fire your new S&W, give the internals a flush. I use plain old WD-40, and rinse that out with Gunscrubber. Then a quick shot of a aerosol Teflon lube.

There's usually a bit of grit and some dust that may not be best for your handgun's internals. It also puts unwanted wear on everything including the working surfaces you were/are trying to slick up.
 
Very likely suffering from a condition called "long ratchets". Pretty common these days, unfortunately.

I just had that issue with a new Model 19-8 a few months ago. The gun shop's gunsmith fixed it, but after seeing the poor quality control in the current crop of S&Ws, I put the revolver in the display case at the shop on consignment. Just couldn't "bond" with it after that.

I hope the OP gets his sorted out.
 
If there something like that happens with a brand new revolver you'll never have peace of mind and you'll always have that slightest doubt waiting for it to do it again.
Don't mess with it send it back. It will probably take about four weeks to get it back but after they check it out and send it back to you that doubt will disappear.
 
When getting a new revolver (about 18 over the years), I spray the insides (from all existing Openings) fairly liberally with Rem-oil with Teflon. I then dry fire about 20 times to get the oil spread around (at different angles) and let the excess oil drain over night (if any). I prefer snap caps, but you can dry fire without the hammer hitting the firing pin. Then I dry fire 50+ over the next few days. Works for me. JMO
All revolvers I've ever gotten have been bone dry of lubrication. Rem-oil, CLP etc. will dry out (evaporate) in a short period of time.
All my revolvers smoothed out after the above treatment.

You could have a QC/manufacturing issue (had a new 686 that shipped with an extra trigger spring inside the works), but as mentioned by others above, I would lubricate it first and see how that works out for you.
Good Luck!
P.S. You could take it to your local Gun Smith for a look. He/She could tell you if you need to send it off.

Be SAFE and Shoot Often!
 
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I would go to NAPA or the like and get a can of non chlorinated brake cleaner. Remove the grips open the side plate( take the tension off of the strain screw. Blow it out with compressed air, flush it with spray, blow it out again with compressed air, properly lubricate, and reassemble. Only if you are comfortable doing this. Maybe your dealer performs such a service, assuming you bought the gun there. Point being this may not be worth a trip back to the factory

You may just have metal pieces that were not cleaned out

PS. Welcome to the forum!!!!
 
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Thank you for all of the great advice. I called S&W to get their opinion and they recommended that I send in the revolver to get it checked out. Great customer support. Yes, they sent a pre-paid shipping label, so it's not costing me a thing (okay, gas money to the FedEx drop and 4-6 weeks without the gun). The initial trigger sticking may have been fine after more firing, but I was concerned since it was a display model that may have been abused. Better safe than sorry since this will be my wife's bodyguard.


I think you did the right thing. It could be something simple, like debris or gummy lubricant, but it could also be a mechanical issue. Since it is brand new, make use of the warranty.
 
Sometimes if you don't close the cylinder all the way you will get the sticky trigger you describe. I would dry fire the gun as much as I like. No problem dryfiring 1000s of rounds.

Practice opening and closing the cylinder. I normally guide it in with my left hand so that I know it is closed.

I shoot speed style matches and reloads are very important. You never want to slam the cylinder back in or you can bend the yoke. You can do it fast even when you guide the cylinder like I do.

Keep dry firing and practicing with live rounds.
 
I bought a LNIB 15-2 Combat Masterpiece earlier this year. 40 year old gun that looked unfired. The trigger was sticking. I was hesitant to take the side plate off such a nice old revolver so I blasted brake cleaner into the frame by cocking the hammer and followed with compressed air. No improvement. I finally took the side plate off. Very funky in there. Congealed I guess grease or oil. Looked like ear wax. I properly cleaned it all off and lightly lubed and it is perfect now.

Point is, I've been reading for years about spraying brake cleaner and then air behind hammer. In my case, that didn't work. I've taken the side plate off every Smith and Wesson revolver I have bought, new or used. I want to start the ownership knowing what's under the hood. I know how to properly take the plate off and I've disassembled them before.
 
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Okay, thanks again for all of the great advice. Sent the gun to S&W and received it back after 6 weeks in the factory. They're backlogged these days. Service ticket says they replaced the hand, so I'm hopeful that was the problem. I called Customer Service and they said same thing many of you have said: Clean it good before firing. So, now I have peace of mind.
 
Same thing happening to me!

I purchased a 22 magnum (351C) about 6 months ago and the first couple of range days.....I had the same thing happen. I posted on here and was given the advice to keep firing the gun and the trigger would smooth out eventually and stop sticking.

That is exactly what happened. By my third range day, no more sticky trigger and have had about 4 additional range days of flawless operation

Exact same gun, exact same experience on my first day shooting yesterday.

Glad to hear yours worked itself out! I am dry-firing it with spent casings, in the hopes mine "will fix itself" too.

Thanks for the reassurance.
 
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