Coaltminer
Member
I'm notta agonna. I've also used nothing but 44 Spl. in my 29. Clean after shooting, no problems. Been a reloader for 45 yrs.
STOP Shooting 38's in your 357's!!
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AZretired
Member
When I started in LE, many years ago, my department issued the S&W M-19 and out duty ammo was the Federal 125 JHP, .357 Mag. HOWEVER, we trained and qualified quarterly using .38 Special Wadcutters (because they were cheap compared to magnums, even in reloads) Once per year we qualified with Magnum ammo. This was common practice in most departments in the 70's. Most of us were shooters and also shot a fair amount of warm to hot reloads but we were already aware of problems with the K Frames so we did limit round count.
Some times you just can't control what you shoot. Your department says shoot wadcutters, you shoot wadcutters.
DustyJacket
Member
This Valentine's day I was looking for a .38 snubbie for my wife. There were NO S&W available, new, used, or abused.
I did find this:
It is her prized possession.
It is a .357 and all she shoots are .38s out of it. There is no way she is going to touch off a magnum round in that small thing. Even though I have 50 rounds. She cleans the cylinder out every time we go shoot.
.38 brass is all I have so that is what I reload (maybe 1,500 rounds of brass or ammo). No way I am going to try to buy several hundred .357 brass. Even if it was available. I like the option of shooting her ammo in my .38, too.
Now, if Ruger offered to fit a .38 cylinder with the same engraving, I would buy it for her.
What finally convinced me to start loading low power stuff in my .357 brass was shooting UMC 130 gr jacketed .38s in my .357. Cleaning the cylinder was a major chore, even with a .40 brush/Chore Boy copper pads after shooting only 1 box.
There was more than just powder fouling. There was some extremely hard residue (from the jacket maybe?) that would not come out without hours of scrubbing with the brush. The cylinder was far harder to get clean than the barrel.
Some apparently have had no more trouble cleaning after shooting .38s compared to .357s. That was not my experience. As another poster said, this is the reloading section. Hence, it makes sense to take advantage of reloading to solve such problems.
There was more than just powder fouling. There was some extremely hard residue (from the jacket maybe?) that would not come out without hours of scrubbing with the brush. The cylinder was far harder to get clean than the barrel.
Some apparently have had no more trouble cleaning after shooting .38s compared to .357s. That was not my experience. As another poster said, this is the reloading section. Hence, it makes sense to take advantage of reloading to solve such problems.
Well, I've seen a lot of answers to your question and I gave 6 in a previous post. To add another thought; Why would anyone buy a 100+ MPH Corvette and just drive it at 35 around town, and 65 on the freeways? Why not just buy a Smart Car to begin with? The nature of Man!
I'd like you to name one Magnum anything (except 22 Magnum rimfires) that is not down loaded at some point for a specific reason.
How about a nice simple NO!
As far as I know SW only makes one or two 38 special only target revolvers (ones with sights) the rest are snubs.
As mentioned way back, it started for non reloaders as 38 Spl are way cheaper and are fun to shoot. Factory 357's are expensive and no fun. (for a lot)
Now move on to the 44 Mag. How many 44 Spl does SW make now?? So lets not shoot 44 Spl in any 44 Mag??
How many threads are there on a nice plinking load for the 460 and 500 Mag?? Why have the gun if you are gonna shoot bunny farts??
Clean your gun and all is well in the Cosmic Universe.
As far as I know SW only makes one or two 38 special only target revolvers (ones with sights) the rest are snubs.
As mentioned way back, it started for non reloaders as 38 Spl are way cheaper and are fun to shoot. Factory 357's are expensive and no fun. (for a lot)
Now move on to the 44 Mag. How many 44 Spl does SW make now?? So lets not shoot 44 Spl in any 44 Mag??
How many threads are there on a nice plinking load for the 460 and 500 Mag?? Why have the gun if you are gonna shoot bunny farts??
Clean your gun and all is well in the Cosmic Universe.
LoboGunLeather
US Veteran
My old 6" Model 19 is well over 35 years old. In addition to being my duty weapon for several years it also served me in PPC competition use for several seasons. I really have no idea just how many TENS OF THOUSANDS of rounds of .38 Special cast lead bullet reloads have been fired through that revolver. Never a problem. Never a hiccup. And it will still shoot 2" groups at 50 yards all day long.
I have frequently fired 300 rounds or more between cleaning sessions during competitions. That means that there is considerable crud accumulated in the chambers, cylinder face, forcing cone, frame recesses, and barrel.
Routine cleaning is not that difficult to do. Here is everything needed:
1. cleaning rod
2. slotted tip
3. bronze bore brushes (replaced frequently, they wear out)
4. patches
5. bore cleaner (I use GI Surplus that I bought for $1 per qt. years ago)
6. bronze brush (handle-style, like a large toothbrush)
7. rags (old T-shirts are always good).
8. old used toothbrushes.
9. screwdriver.
Here is my method:
1. wipe down exterior, frame recesses, cylinder face, etc to remove powder residue
2. clean cylinder face and frame recesses with dry bronze handle-brush.
3. dry bore brush through the barrel, usually about 40 or 50 passes.
4. dry bore brush through each chamber, usually about 40 or 50 passes.
5. old used toothbrush dipped in bore cleaner, scrub out frame recesses, cylinder, under extractor "star", etc.
6. cleaning patch soaked in bore cleaner, passed through bore and all chambers several times.
7. wait at least 30 minutes to give the bore cleaner time to loosen residues in bore and chambers.
8. clean patches through bore and chambers until they come out clean.
9. wipe down all surfaces with clean soft rag
10. check all screws for proper tightness with screwdriver (amazing how they can come loose after only a few hundred rounds). I remember many times that shooters found their cylinder latches had fallen off, frame screws had fallen out, etc. It only takes a minute to check these and developing the habit prevents these problems completely.
This takes about 45 minutes to do. If I have several handguns to clean I do them at the same time, just repeating each process on each one, so 2 or 3 can be cleaned in about the same amount of time. The bulk of the time required is while waiting for the bore cleaning solvent to do its work; if that is neglected the results will be less than ideal.
If the revolver is to be stored for an extended period of time I will wipe it down with an oily rag. When removing from storage it will need to be wiped down and a couple of patches run through barrel and chambers before next use.
Note that I have always used primarily hard cast lead bullets, not jacketed. If you are using jacketed bullets I recommend scrubbing the bore and chambers with solvent, then leaving it sit for an hour or two to allow the solvent to remove jacket residues, and you may find that repeating the cleaning a day or two later will result in more fouling coming out.
I've never had to worry about .357 ammo chambering or extracting because I have never allowed a "crud ring" to build up.
I have frequently fired 300 rounds or more between cleaning sessions during competitions. That means that there is considerable crud accumulated in the chambers, cylinder face, forcing cone, frame recesses, and barrel.
Routine cleaning is not that difficult to do. Here is everything needed:
1. cleaning rod
2. slotted tip
3. bronze bore brushes (replaced frequently, they wear out)
4. patches
5. bore cleaner (I use GI Surplus that I bought for $1 per qt. years ago)
6. bronze brush (handle-style, like a large toothbrush)
7. rags (old T-shirts are always good).
8. old used toothbrushes.
9. screwdriver.
Here is my method:
1. wipe down exterior, frame recesses, cylinder face, etc to remove powder residue
2. clean cylinder face and frame recesses with dry bronze handle-brush.
3. dry bore brush through the barrel, usually about 40 or 50 passes.
4. dry bore brush through each chamber, usually about 40 or 50 passes.
5. old used toothbrush dipped in bore cleaner, scrub out frame recesses, cylinder, under extractor "star", etc.
6. cleaning patch soaked in bore cleaner, passed through bore and all chambers several times.
7. wait at least 30 minutes to give the bore cleaner time to loosen residues in bore and chambers.
8. clean patches through bore and chambers until they come out clean.
9. wipe down all surfaces with clean soft rag
10. check all screws for proper tightness with screwdriver (amazing how they can come loose after only a few hundred rounds). I remember many times that shooters found their cylinder latches had fallen off, frame screws had fallen out, etc. It only takes a minute to check these and developing the habit prevents these problems completely.
This takes about 45 minutes to do. If I have several handguns to clean I do them at the same time, just repeating each process on each one, so 2 or 3 can be cleaned in about the same amount of time. The bulk of the time required is while waiting for the bore cleaning solvent to do its work; if that is neglected the results will be less than ideal.
If the revolver is to be stored for an extended period of time I will wipe it down with an oily rag. When removing from storage it will need to be wiped down and a couple of patches run through barrel and chambers before next use.
Note that I have always used primarily hard cast lead bullets, not jacketed. If you are using jacketed bullets I recommend scrubbing the bore and chambers with solvent, then leaving it sit for an hour or two to allow the solvent to remove jacket residues, and you may find that repeating the cleaning a day or two later will result in more fouling coming out.
I've never had to worry about .357 ammo chambering or extracting because I have never allowed a "crud ring" to build up.
CAJUNLAWYER
Member
Well, I'll continue to shoot .38's out of my .357's as I really don't care what the new owner will think.
Seriously though-it's a cleaning problem and I for one am pretty anal about keeping the special ring out of my .357's
Seriously though-it's a cleaning problem and I for one am pretty anal about keeping the special ring out of my .357's
Well, since I won't quit shooting .38's in my .357's I won't offend you by selling one to you. That way we both stay happy.
Stainless44
Member
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OK...but in return you're going to have to start running full synthetic oil in your vehicle just in case I end up with it one day.
For me this is simple; I like revolvers and there are far more 357 mag revolvers to choose from that any other caliber. I own several both double and single action 357 mag revolvers yet I have no use for the 357 mag cartridge. They all are used with 38s. When I train with a carry gun it's with a 45 not a 357. When I hunt with a handgun it's with a 44 or 45, or a 22LR or 32 mag for smaller stuff. There's no place for the 357 mag in the shooting I do.
So here's another answer to your question.
Dennis.
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Me thinks the OP just don't wanna be convinced...
Gryff
Member
Don't buy any of my revolvers, then. I'll I ever have shot, and will shoot is .38 Special. For me, .357 is a) for self-defense (which I don't use my revos for), and b) too long for optimum use in competition (which is what I use most of my revos for).
I just learned out to clean my cylinders really well.
CatSnipah
Member
Some folks get all hot n bothered at a symptom rather than going after the root cause, I guess.
Not cleaning your gun then wondering why it lets you down is like blowing your nose and wondering why your cold doesn't instantly go away.
Not cleaning your gun then wondering why it lets you down is like blowing your nose and wondering why your cold doesn't instantly go away.
Will Carry
Member
I must say the OP has a point. "If your going to be a bear. Be a Grizzly Bear." If you are going to own a .357 feed it .357 ammo. I love shootin' .357s loads. He is also right about the crud that builds up in the cylinder that Hoppes #9 won't even get off. Do I shoot 38 specials in my .357s? Heck yeah!
WASATCH CHARLIE
Member
I"know" the o.p. only posted to stir up the forum a bit well done!!!!!you got a FORTH of JULY reaction from a complete NON ISSUE!!!!!! one of the best SHAKE 'EM UP posts I have ever seen!!!!!!!!! p.s. of course everyone does or should clean the cylinders after shooting!!!!!!
nicky4968
Member
To answer the question of why .38 Specials in a .357, if you loaded Lyman's 358429 in your Model 27 or Model 28 you wouldn't have any other choice. The bullet cannot be seated correctly in the case without it sticking out past the end of the cylinder.
The other reason is I have a ton of .38 Special cases.
The other reason is I have a ton of .38 Special cases.
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Beancounter81
Member
I agree wholeheartedly. One of the best gun cleaning purchases I ever made. Sounds like a lot of people have never heard of them.
TrueTexan
Member
I got tired of cleaning the ring out so I now just load in 357 cases also makes it easier reloading don't have to adjust the dies for the change between the 38 and 357. Did the same thing with my 44 mag.
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