Strong side vs. Cross draw

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medxam

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I am about to purchase a new holster for my NIB 66-1 2 1/2" revolver. What are your thoughts on strong side vs. cross draw.

medxam
 
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For the last several years I have been using a Galco SOB Holster as a Strong Side Draw Holster. Frankly, NOTHING belongs in the Small of your Back - especially a Holster. I now have several of this style including one for a 3 inch "J" Frame that I think works very well. I find I don't have any trouble getting to my sidearm even while seat belted into my Van. Cross Draw has several "draw backs" for just about anything other than drawing while seated in a car and 'shooting' out the window at an attacker and this is only "Good" if you are Right Handed.

The major problem is that when you draw while on the firing line you will be pointing your sidearm at everyone on that side of your body and then you have to swing the gun in a wide arc before bringing the gun to a "sudden" stop before getting onto the Target.

Lots of Ranges and LEO Agencies don't allow this type holster for the above reasons.
 
medxam, I have exactly the same weapon as you (well, except mine is quite a few years old). I've gone through a number of holsters in that time and am currently using a crossdraw that Tucker Gun Leather in Texas made up for me. I say "made up" because it's not the one shown on his website.

When my order finally came up (some seven months after initially placing it), his rep called me to find out exactly what I was looking for. He ended up making me a crossdraw in a pancake design that I'm very pleased with. It's comfortable to wear (including seated in a vehicle), conceals reasonably well and draws quickly.

I guess it all boils down to what's comfortable for YOU?
 
I have tried to carry cross draw but don't find it comfortable.I am a lefty so i like to carry strong hand at about the 8:00 position.I bought this holster at www.packinheatleather.com
Picture.jpg
 
KKG. A question. I have a model 60-15 3" S&W. I am looking for a good concealment holster that is safe. I recently saw one that had a button or trigger that released the firearm but it was for an automatic. The Galco SOB is that the model of a plain leather and do you know the name of the trigger release? Thank you very much in advance.
 
The only time I really like to carry in a crossdraw is when I'm driving on a long trip. Otherwise, it has just always looked to me that an aggressor standing in front of me would have a headstart on snatching my gun with it oriented butt-towards him.
 
Originally posted by speybro:
KKG. A question. I have a model 60-15 3" S&W. I am looking for a good concealment holster that is safe. I recently saw one that had a button or trigger that released the firearm but it was for an automatic. The Galco SOB is that the model of a plain leather and do you know the name of the trigger release? Thank you very much in advance.
Can't help you with this. I don't use or recommend even a simple "Thumb Break" on a concealed holster. A well fitted and proper suede lining is more than enough to hold the gun in place. If you need more "retention" most of these holsters can be fitted with a tension screw if they aren't already.
 
Originally posted by Pisgah:
The only time I really like to carry in a crossdraw is when I'm driving on a long trip. Otherwise, it has just always looked to me that an aggressor standing in front of me would have a headstart on snatching my gun with it oriented butt-towards him.

Yep, we demonstrate this to new agents all the time. If they're dedicated to surveillance duties, it may be an option since they'll spend a lot of time seated in a car, but even better than that we suggest getting one of the holsters that you can mount around the center console (for righties)....get in the car, put the gun in that holster and return it when you get out.

The other bad thing about cross draw when you're not seated is that if you go to draw the gun your arm is in a naturally weak position. You might get your hand on the gun, but I can grab your gun arm and hold it pressed into your body and you won't have the strength to overpower me....I can push harder than you can pull your arm away from your body. Now you're tied up with your dominant hand/arm pinned to you and you're effectively a one-armed man in a fight!

Further, if a bad guy gets their hands on you and grabs your arms/hands you may not even be able to get your hand to the gun, much less draw it. You'll have to go to plan B at that point.

From strong side you can usually pull your arm up enough to clear the holster, or drop your center of gravity and break free enough to get the gun out and send lead towards the bad guy.
 
For this particular S&W model 60 3" .357 mag which holster do you recommend. Again thank you
 
I have one of the earlier version of that same gun and use the Galco SOB as suggested originally - in the Strong Side position, just behind the body center line. The Holster/Gun ride high and can still provide a very fast "Presentation" toward the target. I'll have to get some more photos of this arrangement together.

I had some showing both a Glock 27 and the 3 inch Model 60 using this arrangement but it looks like I did some clean up and got rid of them. I'll Post some over the weekend.
 
Originally posted by biggs357:
I have tried to carry cross draw but don't find it comfortable.I am a lefty so i like to carry strong hand at about the 8:00 position.I bought this holster at www.packinheatleather.com
Picture.jpg

Biggs, how does your j-frame fit? I had one for my 6906 and was thinking of one for my SP101 but the website says it's for Colt, Ruger and S&W...I usally buy a holster made just for one gun..I know those models are close but a Colt and the SP are bigger than a j-frame....
 
It fits tight and rides close to my body.The holster you see fits a colt detective special.Actually it was alittle hard at first to snap closed but after i left the gun in the holster over night,it went right in and closed every time.BTW my Rossi m677 was almost identical to the colt d/s 2" which will also the Rossi 461/462,and the S&W model 60.

I just looked and you are right,the one that fits your gun will be the Galco Speed master for $59.96.
 
When carrying concealed I always have the gun covered with a shirt or suit coat and much prefer cross draw. I can reach inside a button front shirt or suit coat and be sure of comming out with only the gun. With the gun on the strong side I must first get the shirt or coat tail out of the way and then go for the gun while hoping that I don't come up with a handfull of coat tail with the gun.

I have qualified many times with the cross draw and pointing the gun in unacceptable directions was never a problem. The gun comes out of the holster, muzzel down and is rotated to the front as it is brought to bear.

Possibly it is only my phobia, but the possibility of comming up with a handfull of coat tail or shirt tail when I need a gun is eliminated with the cross draw. Also fighting the coat tail while sitting in a car, is especially problematic.

Second to the cross draw was the shoulder holster, which was just a few inches higher than the cross draw. Mine were carried vertically as they were a little large for horizontal carry.
 
Horseback is where the crossdraw shines. Elsewhere, it is not necessary.

WILDPIG
 
Our State Police and the Washington Highway Patrol used to wear Crossdraw duty holsters, one was a Hoyt (not the breakfront) and the other was a Bucheimer.

Our (Idaho) State Police had to constantly be aware of where the weapon and person of interest were. Many foiled attempts at grabbing the weapon was due to the Trooper keeping his weak hand on the gun, or resting the weak side forearm on the weapon.

I was a Sheriff's Deputy for 20 years and transported prisoners all over the west in Patrol cars. Those were the days, NOT!!!

I wore a primary sidearm in a horizontal shoulder holster and a secondary (Colt DS) in an ankle holster.

The fastest to draw from in a car was the ankle holster.

Crossdraws are an invitation to a gun grab.

My advice to a holste for you is: Galco Speemaster which I carry a 3" L frame in and love it. Or a DeSantis Model Speed Scabbard.

Good luck.
 
Here are the photos of the Galco SOB with a Glock 27:

G-27-Galco-SOB.jpg


Here are the images a Ross SOB with a Model 60-4(3 inch barrel and Target Sights):

M-60-w-3-inch-Ross-SOB.jpg


The 3 inch "J" Frame is about the Maximum size and barrel length for this style of carry. I would go for a "K" Frame with a 2-1/2 or 3 inch barrel but at my age(a fair way over the Hill to some) and overall Health - sever Arthritis - I am looking for lighter weight guns for 'carry' purposes. I like the Glock well enough that I 'carry' two of them to "Speed-up" my reload time.
 
For those who spend a lot of time behind the wheel, I can recommend Ken Null's "Viper" holster for J-frame Smiths. It rides horizontal just to the weak side of the buckle on whatever belt is being worn.
 
Originally posted by bronco45: ...Our State Police and the Washington Highway Patrol used to wear Crossdraw duty holsters, one was a Hoyt (not the breakfront) and the other was a Bucheimer...
WSP(Washington State Police) carried and used Cross Draw Holsters for many Years when they carried revolvers.

The primary reason for this was because they frequently transported people - including prisoners - in the front seat of their Patrol Vehicles, as this was considered 'safer' than having someone sit behind you. And the Cross Draw Holster put the gun as far away from the "Passenger" as possible in case they turned 'Hostile' for some reason.

All Troopers were required to carry their sidearm on the left side of their body. I believe that they were also required to "Shoot and Qualify" right handed even if they were 'naturally' left handed. It did discourage "South Paws" from applying. They also had a 'minimum height' Requirement that I believe was 6 foot 2 inches and of course, females were not allowed to be hired as Troopers during those days.

This was before the days of having "Cages" in the back seat which now give the Troopers protection. The Cages themselves have evolved from a simple piece of wire mesh welded to the "upper part" of the Roll Bar. The draw back to these early "Cages" was that a man with a knife or sharp rod could still "stick" the Trooper through the seat and of course, the wire mesh also allowed prisoners to also do such things as "Spit" or throw other things at the Troopers.

Many Departments used "other" methods for transports in those days which included "Ring Bolts" welded to the Floor in the back seat. Prisoners would be 'locked' to these bolts via chains of by simply running the hand cuff chain through the bolt. Of course, this made for something of a less than comfortable ride for the Prisoner. It took many years for the WSP "Policy" to change to "require" that prisoners be hand cuffed with their hands behind their backs.

To the best of my knowledge WSP retained the use of Cross Draw Holsters until they began "issuing" Automatics which I think was some time in the '90s.
 
"it has just always looked to me that an aggressor standing in front of me would have a headstart on snatching my gun with it oriented butt-towards him."
If you are concealed, the BG will go after your SS....What makes the cross-draw so effective and faster than SS (you don't have to sweep your outer garment) according to my former mentor, Ray Chapman and proven by Todd Jarrett while timing various modes of CC.
Anyway, SS didn't work for me; not comfortable for my body build.
ConcealedColt003-1.jpg
 
One other thing about crossdraw that I didn't like was and or is: If you're carrying concealed the drape of your jacket or covering garment gave away the fact that you are carrying, so easily.

Tactically, you have a great advantage, namely "surprise" by keeping your weapon hidden. Also body types play an important role in what type of holster is worn. People with large chests or large abdomens have a difficult time with crossdraw. Finally, the best place to carry a gun if you really need it is in your hand. Everything else is a compromise.

Wherever you decide to carry it make that place a habit and practice with that holster and position until it is second nature to you.

One night early in my law enforcement career me and my partner responded to a local grocery store where a call had gone out that an armed robbery was taking place. As we exited the patrol vehicle 25 yds from the storefront two perps came out of the front door. One with a revolver in his hand and the other with a handful of cash. Me and my partner yelled halt only to have them turn and disappear around the corner of the store away from us.

I drew my revolver and gave chase as did my partner who was driving an closer to the two. I remember watching my partner who had just switched from a swivel strong side to a Hoyt crossdraw for his issue 4" Python. Running ahead of me down the alley slapping his right leg repeatedly trying to find his duty weapon.

Ultimately he remembered it was on his weak or left side in a high ride crossdraw, pulled the gun and we made the arrest, as the guy with the gun gave up, thank God or my partner or both of us could have been shot. I know today the guy with the gun would have been handled different, but in 1970 you didn't shoot unless the gun was pointed at you.

So practice with what you choose, practice a lot, until it is natural for you.
 
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