Stuck 1905 target

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fiddlestick

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I have a 1905 target 4 change that has never been fired since I bought it. Everything was fine when I put it away about 6mo ago. I got it out to wipe it down last night and the cly release is stuck in the forward position. The cyl will not swing out. The release button seems to has some spring tension to the rear but just stuck forward.
How do I get this cyl open?
This pistol is in very good condition 95% finish and i dontt want to mess it up.
Thanks
Fiddlestick
 
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I have a 1905 target 4 change that has never been fired since I bought it. Everything was fine when I put it away about 6mo ago. I got it out to wipe it down last night and the cly release is stuck in the forward position. The cyl will not swing out. The release button seems to has some spring tension to the rear but just stuck forward.
How do I get this cyl open?
This pistol is in very good condition 95% finish and i dontt want to mess it up.
Thanks
Fiddlestick
 
F

Sounds like you have some dried-up lubricant, assuming that the cylinder opened
and closed freely.

Easiest thing to do, first, is take off the grips, and soak the gun in a bucket
of solvent - paint thinner , etc, for a couple of days. That ought to loosen up
the dried oil, or whatever it is.

Once you get the cylinder release moving again, and can get it in the fuly forward
position, if the cylinder still does not open, take a piece of soft wood,and
tap it on the right side. That might free it.

Sometimes the extractor rod has come loose, and is binding against the extractor
lug. If its loose at all, tighten it up with your fingers, then try opening the
cylinder.

The extractor rod has a center pin running its entire length. It might be
sticking, due to dried oil. The soaking of the whole gun should loosen it,as well.

Regards, Mike Priwer
 
Ok, I will start the soak job today.
The Cly will still turn as normal in single and double action. The button is stuck forward and will not release the Cly to swing out.
I might also mention its cold where the gun safe is located so maybe the temperture is a factor?
Thanks for you advice.
Fiddlestick
 
I have only used. break free and gun oil Remington or hoppes i think.
Now I have no idea what was used before I got it, its been around for a long time.
Fiddlestick
 
Sounds like it's time for a complete take-down to component parts. If the underbarrel locking lug is holding it, but the locking bolt in the middle of the cylinder isn't, then you can slide a feeler gauge or thin piece of brass in front of the underbarrel lug to release the ejector rod. If it's holding in the rear (like happens if you close the cylinder when you have the thumblatch and internals removed) then you can use a small punch or similar to put the rod from the hammer area after removing the hammer.

Basically, if it was mine, I'd take everything apart, clean and lube, then re-assemble. The mechanics on these pre-wars are very simple.

Chris Taylor
 
Chris

I would definitely take it apart for a good cleaning, but I would give the solvent
a chance to free up whatever it sticking - assuming that is the problem. Breakfree
will gum up after a while, and maybe the cold weather has had an effect.

It sounds like there are two issues. One is that the cylinder release is not
returning, and secondly the center-pin of the extractor may be hung up.

Lets see what a day or two of soaking does. I must say, however, that I am confused
about this statement:

"The Cly will still turn as normal in single and double action. The button is stuck forward and will not release the Cly to swing out. "

If the cylinder release is pushed forward, even a slight amount, the rear end of it blocks the
hammer. So - how can normal single/double action occur, if the cylinder release is pushed forward ?
This doesn't make sense, to me. Take any S&W, open the cylinder, then try to single action it.
The release has to be all the way to the rear, before the hammer will move.

If I had to bet, I'd say the cylinder release is stuck in the rear position, and will not go
forward.

Later, Mike Priwer
 
Well all I know is the pistol will rotate the Cyl as if you could fire it if it was loaded.Single or double action. There is some spring tension on the Cyl release if you move it to the rear but will not go forward any more than where it is stuck.( It is in the forward position all the time it will only move to the rear and when released from the rear position it moves back to the forward position.) Kind of backwards from normal.
It worked fine when I put it away last time.I just wanted to wipe it down for future storage protection.
I would not want to take it apart so if it doesnt free up and return to normal I will need to send it to someone who could fix or clean it.
I just received the NRA Firearms assembly 2 volume set.It only has a model 29,Bodyguard,&Centennial for revolvers in the smith section. But I would not like to experment on this revolver. I do have a model 10-5 that I would not mind taking apart for some experence in the Assembly of revolvers.Would the model 29 be the same as a model 10 instructions? Would the model 10 be the similar inside as a 1905??
Fiddlestick
 
Yes - a model 29, a model 10, a 1905 are all the same.

As to this discussion about which way the cylinder release moves, let me just
say that, normally, it is all the way to the rear of the gun, where the rear of
the gun is the butt. When pushed forward, towards the muzzle, it pushes on
the center pin of the extractor rod. That is what releases the cylinder, so
that it can be opned. It can't work backwards.

Study this picture - just posted today :

poster.jpg


Notice that little piece that is sitting right up against the curved backside of
the hammer - right in the crotch area just below the hammer tang. That is the
end of the cylinder release , or the bolt. That is in its rearmost position.
Pushing the thumbpiece forward - towards the muzzle - will block the hammer from
moving.

If this is not the case with your gun, then we are not talking about a 1905 .

Maybe you have a Colt ?

Later, Mike Priwer
 
Have to agree with Mike. It sounds like what you are dealing with is a Colt, not S&W. As he mentioned, if the thumbpiece and bolt are forward you couldn't cock the hammaer as it would be blocked by the bolt. Try pulling the latch back and opening the cylinder that way, if it opens it is a Colt.
 
That is a nice-looking 1920's target. Presumbly the soaking did the trick ?

Now you need to take it apart, finish cleaning it, and put on a better oil !

Later, Mike Priwer
 
Thanks for your help.
Yes the soak did work and I also found the M&P,1902 version. It says this will work for the 1905 & model 10 in the NRA assembly book. So I will start with the model 10 and work my way up to the 1905.
 
I really dont know if I will ever shoot it.
seems like a shame to not shoot it but what if something broke!
Thanks for the comments I have several old S&W
5 screws now and look forward to getting some more.
I didnt pay to much just bought it a little early.
Fiddlestick
 
fiddlestick- I would consider not taking a high condition older gun apart for cleaning. Especially if you are just learning how to do it.

You have already cleaned it by soaking, use air to blow out the solvent through the openings inside the grip frame, hammer opening and around the trigger. Maybe soak and blow it out a few times and work the action a bit while it is wet with solvent. When it is good and dry over oil it and blow it out again maybe a couple of cycles of overoiling and blowing it out. Then oil the works just a bit though the frame openings.

Don't pull the side plate on pristine old guns unless you have too.
 
i agree with pbslinger, especially with the '02 model. the internals are differant and the trigger return sping has a habit of breaking the 'no loud cursing' rule if you've never done it befor. i made a set of pliers to work on mine with. so now i've only got about 18 sets of modified pliers for doing one thing for diferant guns. i'd just remove the sideplate soak scrub dry, repeat. oil and reasemble. btw nice lookin' target. c.p.
 
chillypepper- The process I use on unmolested guns involves not even removing the sideplate, just introducing solvent, air and oil through openings in the frame. It is a rare home gunsmith that can remove a sideplate without any evidence left on the screw slots.
 
even better method. glad your not one of those guys thats gotta open stuff up and dig around, just to see whats there. even with proper screwdrivers and such its still amazing how easy it is to bugger things up. NOT that i would ever mess one up. or two or...
icon_smile.gif

some things just have to be learned the hard way.
 
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