I purchased a S&W 442 (no lock) from Budsgunshop.com last month. For me, this is the perfect concealed weapon! The fit and finish of the revolver was awesome, but the trigger left much to be desired.
After reading post after post (in the gun forums), the general consensus was not to alter it in any way if it were going to be used for concealed carry. Unfortunately, most of the posts I read were probably written by folks who didn't even own a J-frame...
The grittiness of the trigger, along with the heavy pull weight would never have allowed me to shoot this revolver well. So, after dry firing it about 1000 times, I ordered a reduced weight J-frame spring kit from Wilson Combat (probably a re-packaged kit from Wolf gun spring) and tore the J-frame apart. The first thing I noticed was the action was nearly dry. I replaced the stock 18 lb. trigger rebound spring with a 13 lb. spring. I lubed the action with Wilson Combat trigger lube. The ONLY thing that I polished was the round end of the hammer strut (which was VERY rough), and re-used the 8-1/2 lb power spring (hammer spring)- I didn't opt to go with the 8 lb replacement spring, because I didn't want to risk light primer strikes.
To sum up I:
Disassembled
Replaced stock 18 lb. trigger rebound spring with 13 lb. spring
Polished Hammer strut
Lubed
Reassembled
I really think the lack of lubrication and the horrible finish of the hammer strut caused most of the grittiness. I did not polish other internals, because many part are MIM; I didn't want to risk over-polishing
I brought it to the range and shot about 400 rounds. I shot Hornady Critical defense, two different Hornady XTP loads, S&B, WWB, CCI snake shot, Federal, and hand loads (with CCI primers). I had ZERO ignition or trigger reset problems. The work I did made a REMARKABLE difference in the trigger; it allowed me to shoot 2" groups at 7 yards and it shot POA every time.
I just wanted to share my positive experience....
After reading post after post (in the gun forums), the general consensus was not to alter it in any way if it were going to be used for concealed carry. Unfortunately, most of the posts I read were probably written by folks who didn't even own a J-frame...
The grittiness of the trigger, along with the heavy pull weight would never have allowed me to shoot this revolver well. So, after dry firing it about 1000 times, I ordered a reduced weight J-frame spring kit from Wilson Combat (probably a re-packaged kit from Wolf gun spring) and tore the J-frame apart. The first thing I noticed was the action was nearly dry. I replaced the stock 18 lb. trigger rebound spring with a 13 lb. spring. I lubed the action with Wilson Combat trigger lube. The ONLY thing that I polished was the round end of the hammer strut (which was VERY rough), and re-used the 8-1/2 lb power spring (hammer spring)- I didn't opt to go with the 8 lb replacement spring, because I didn't want to risk light primer strikes.
To sum up I:
Disassembled
Replaced stock 18 lb. trigger rebound spring with 13 lb. spring
Polished Hammer strut
Lubed
Reassembled
I really think the lack of lubrication and the horrible finish of the hammer strut caused most of the grittiness. I did not polish other internals, because many part are MIM; I didn't want to risk over-polishing
I brought it to the range and shot about 400 rounds. I shot Hornady Critical defense, two different Hornady XTP loads, S&B, WWB, CCI snake shot, Federal, and hand loads (with CCI primers). I had ZERO ignition or trigger reset problems. The work I did made a REMARKABLE difference in the trigger; it allowed me to shoot 2" groups at 7 yards and it shot POA every time.
I just wanted to share my positive experience....