SW 1905 bore condition concern

DocBrick

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Hello all,

First time poster, long time reader.

My first adventure into vintage Smith and Wesson may be a failure. I recently purchased second hand a SW Model 1905 .38 Special, serial number 189890. I am assuming its a 3rd change based on what I read. Gun is great working order. Nice trigger. It was refinished. HOWEVER, the bore appears to be heavily pitted.

In California you have to wait 10 days before you pick up a gun that you have purchased. When I initially purchased the gun, the seller said the bore was in good shape. I looked down it and thought the dark spots and such were fouling or leading that needed to be cleaned out.

Today I brought the pistol home for an examination. To my horror I have found some rather bad pitting (or so I think at least) inside the barrel.

Below are some pictures of the revolver and the pitting in the barrel. My main concern is safety. I had planned to shoot this gun using lead factory ammo (mild loads) and my own mild lead reloads. But, based upon the pitting, I am rather uncertain/scared to even shoot the damn thing.

My questions are: is this truly a 3rd change 1905? Based upon the pitting is the gun safe to shoot? Am I better off buying a replacement barrel? Will a 4th change barrel even fit the gun? Did I get screwed?

Thanks for you time everyone. Wish I was posting under better circumstances.








 
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Fear not!

Shoot it with whatever you want, a few pits ain't no big deal. Trust me on this. :)
Actually, I'd be more worried about a reblue, although it looks nice.
 
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Fear not!

Shoot it with whatever you want, a few pits ain't no big deal. Trust me on this. :)

Even those super dark patches of pitty cancer? Maybe I am just freaking out for nothing then. I just have no seen pitting this bad before on a firearm I have owned. Don't want to barrel to burst mid shooting session.
 
I have an M&P from the mid-1920s with a similar bore condition which shoots pretty good groups, even with lead bullets. Nothing to worry about. That SN would date its shipment around 1913, and it would be a third change. It strikes me as a possible re-blue.
 
If you shoot it enough, maybe you will fill those pits with lead.:D Absolutely nothing to worry about, other than pitted barrels take some extra care when cleaning, so as not to make the situation worse by leaving residue and burned powder in the pitted areas. Someone did a very nice job at re-bluing that revolver and it will look great at the range.

I bet when you are over 100 years old, you will have more pits than that revolver barrel.
 
Don't sweat a burst barrel, Doc ! I've fired guns with way worse pitting than yours without ill effect. As above, it may lead a mite, but normal cleaning procedures will do fine. Shoot, clean, oil, repeat.

Larry
 
Yep - agree with the others. I wouldn't think twice about shooting it. I have any number with similar pitting. Welcome to the forum!
 
You guys are awesome! Thank you. You literally turned my day around. :)


I do have a question about ammo choices. See as the revolver was made pre-heat treatment. Should I never run FMJ ammo through it(factory loads or light reloads)? Or should it just eat a diet of lead for the rest of its days? Again, safety first. Don't want a burst cylinder on top of a burst barrel. :p
 
I have yet to see a revolver barrel, or for that matter any gun barrel, with heavy pitting which failed on firing. The damage always looks worse than it actually is. When I shoot mine with a similar bore, I always scrub it with a brass bristle brush after shooting. Remember, corrosive primed ammunition was about all that was available until the mid-late 1920s, and it wasn't too unusual that earlier guns are seen with corroded and pitted barrels as a result of owner neglect in not cleaning their guns with water immediately after firing. Water (or cleaning compounds using water as an ingredient) was about the only thing that worked to remove the salt residues produced by the use of corrosive primers.

Stay away from both +P and jacketed bullet ammunition. Any standard velocity .38 Special loadings with lead bullets would be best. Back in the days when yours was made, your choice in .38 Special ammunition was lead bullets or nothing.
 
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That's a nice looking gun. You didn't say what you paid for it, but those grips are super nice and would bring over $100. I know that for a fact because I have gladly paid $100 plus for gold medallion grips from the 1910-1919 period several times. The pitting is nothing. . .the barrel actually doesn't look that bad. Re-blued? Maybe. . .maybe not. I'd have to hold it to tell for sure. With grips that nice (if they number to the gun) you would expect the gun to be in top shape too. If you want to see a pitted gun here's one. I call it my boat anchor. It was made in 1902 and shoots just fine. You ought to see the inside of the barrel. The grips are too nice for the gun but do match. It has never been refinished (obviously). I should mention that you have good case coloring on the hammer and trigger of your gun. If it is a re-blue, it was done correctly.
 

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Can't add any more to what has already been said. None of my old Smiths have pitting but I just consider that "luck" as several of my revolvers date back to corrosive primers, etc. I've shot military rifles and muzzle loading rifles with much more pitting than you have and you'd be surprised at the accuracy you can get. Just enjoy it and have fun! Nice looking revolver!
 
Welcome from Tennessee!

I do have a question about ammo choices. See as the revolver was made pre-heat treatment. Should I never run FMJ ammo through it(factory loads or light reloads)? Or should it just eat a diet of lead for the rest of its days? Again, safety first. Don't want a burst cylinder on top of a burst barrel. :p
Heat treatment started at ser.#316648 in Sept. 1919(by JP@AK). I joined only a couple months ago for your reason too, and it didn't take very long. I had just picked up a 1905 4th change, #3150XX all #'s matching, 5 screw mfd. 1919(JP@AK) for $270 OTD at my LGS in town here. Original, tight, good bore, but for newer S&W stocks and barrel shortened to 3/58" from probably 5" or 6", and in that being of no real collector value. Holsters, handles, and shoots great with with American Eagle 38B loads. A little rough but I love it. Great shooter. This is a great forum and I spend too much time here, just ask my wife! See ya'll around, be safe.
 

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Just use a new Bronze Bore Brush and a good bore cleaner before shooting. Actually for a gun that old, it's not all that bad. I've seen a lot worse. Thankfully where the damage is should NOT affect accuracy at all. Enjoy!
 
Just wanted to let everyone know that I took the revolver to the range and my God does it shoot well.

Thanks again to everyone for their advice and insight. I love those old revolvers.

About 20 rounds at 12 yards standing.

 
That is a really attractive gun. Congratulations. Regarding your concern about the barrel and based on the target I'd say the proof is in the pudding.
 
If it can shoot like that at 12 yards I definitely wouldn't worry about it.
I was going to suggest shooting some FMJ's through it to see if those shoot better, but if the pictures you posted was with lead I'd stick with lead.
The pressure in the barrel is greatly reduced from the pressure in the cylinder and I have shoot guns with worse bores than that.
My biggest concern would be leading because of the rough bore. You might want to watch out for for that.
 
Just wanted to let everyone know that I took the revolver to the range and my God does it shoot well.

Thanks again to everyone for their advice and insight. I love those old revolvers.

About 20 rounds at 12 yards standing.


Love a story that ends well, congratulations.
Try your loads with gas checked bullets, some times they help with pits. Jacketed should be no problem!
That revolver is SWEET !
Gary
 
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