SW1911TA Issues

[kc-130nav]

Local to me is a SW1911TA for sale. It is in nice condition and has a Streamlight TLR-2s on it. Upon examining it I noted a couple of thimgs.

When the slide is pulled back, like you would if chambering a round, the hammer does not cock but follows the slide back up most of the time. I did get it to cock a couple of times and the grip safety does not function.

The slide release is really hard to push down to let the slide go forward.

Any ideas what’s going on?

 

[Kp321]

Nothing a trip to a 1911 mechanic and a few parts won’t fix. Probably cost from $100 to $250 depending on parts replacement. Talk the seller down an appropriate amount. Could be as simple as a good cleaning and a new sear spring.

 

[Autonomous]

It is not safe as is. Not trying to be snarky but good condition means safe.
I'd assume Bubba attempted a trigger job on the kitchen table. What else did he bugger up?
Personally, I wouldn't consider it unless it was at least $500 under market value of an intact model.
I chose that figure as it could easily run that much to have it inspected and repaired.

 

[kc-130nav]

Thank you very much for your reply.

 

[cherrypointmarine]

Reach out to BMCM here and ask him what he thinks . He's n awesome gunsmith when it comes to our S&W's .

 

[4T5GUY]

When the slide is pulled back, like you would if chambering a round, the hammer does not cock but follows the slide back up most of the time. I did get it to cock a couple of times and the grip safety does not function.

Sear spring needs to be checked/adjusted or replaced/adjusted.

Jim

 

[Fastbolt]

Sear spring needs to be checked/adjusted or replaced/adjusted.

Jim

Good place to start and a relatively simple correction (if you know what you're doing). Of course, an inspection by a smith familiar with 1911's is also a good idea. Who knows with a used gun if someone fooled around under the hood and ruined something.

 

[Fastbolt]

FWIW, in the S&W SW1911 pistol armorer manual, the probable causes of Hammer Falls (Does Not Stay Cocked):

*Sear spring is exerting inadequate tension on sear
*Hammer notch worn or damaged
*Sear worn or damaged
*Disconnector worn or damaged

Another avenue for inspection and correction might be to call S&W and ask for a shipping label, but if the repair tech determines the problem is something caused by improper tinkering under the hood, and not a warranty item, they may ask for a credit card number to effect repairs.

 

[mreed911]

The slide release is really hard to push down to let the slide go forward.

That's because it's not a slide release, it's a slide stop. To release the slide, pull it fully rearward and the slide stop will drop out of the way, allowing the slide to close when released. The force you're feeling trying to use that lever as a release is the force of the mainspring and hammer pushing against the slide, as well as the recoil spring.

 

[SWOOP01]

If you are familiar with 1911s, by all means talk them down, with safety and functionality being good reasons. All of the possible problems with that, the parts are available from Midway (actual S&W parts). Now my SW1911TA is an incredible pistol and great tack driver. But there are plenty of good used ones out there too at a good price. But I am always up for fixing others mistakes to my benefit.

 

[ultra45]

My 1911PD had a consistent hammer follow thru condition, among others. Five trips back to S&W failed to address the problem. I finally traded it for a SA RONIN in 9mm. Still wanting a LW 45, I was able to find a LW COLT commander to fill the gap. S&W makes fine firearms, but their entry into the 1911, although meant well was a horror show. With the exception of the external extractor, it’s supposed to be Mil-Spec, I’ve found it’s far from it. Just my 2 cents.

 

[stansdds]

The hammer follows the slide most of the time and the grip safety does nothing... sounds like someone really messed with than 1911 and messed it up. My guess is that the grip safety will need to be replaced. The hammer follow could be the disconnector, the sear, the hammer, or any combination of the three. I would look at this as a project gun and price it accordingly. You could easily spend $200 just for replacement parts.