Swapping barrels on J frame

earthquake

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I have a Model 36 [no dash] with a 1 7/8" barrel, I shot a friends Taurus m85 with a 3" barrel and I liked how it felt. If I bought a used 3" M36 barrel of of E bay what the chances it would gap OK? Is there any way to stretch the forcing cone section of the barrel?
Thanks for any help.

Casey
 
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A too large barrel cylinder gap is reduced by tuning the barrel further in by just shy of a revolution. There is no other way. However, very few barrels fit without first being turned in a lathe so that is an expected part of barrel installation.

If you have to ask, it is not a do it yourself project. The process has been described in detail in many threads. Here's one from 2009 in the S&W-Smithing sub-forum: http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-smithing/99388-how-revolver-barrel-installed.html Figure $100 to $150 gunsmithing in addition to the cost of the barrel. Also, be warned. Bad barrels are seldom thrown out after being replaced. Mostly they are sold to suckers through eBay or at gun shows. You might not spot their problem until your gunsmith points it out. Guess how I learned this.


Unless local laws cause a problem usually you are better off to sell a revolver that does not have the length of barrel that you want then buy what you want or trade guns.
 
I have changed some barrels, it is seldom a straight swap our. If you don't have a lathe or special tools it would be better and cheaper to buy a 36-1 and sell the one you have now. Besides the barrel you would need a longer ejector r is assy
 
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There are two versions of the M36 with 3" barrels. The 36 no dash has a tapered barrel that matches the frame contour of the shorter barrel version, and the 36-1 has the heavier barrel and the frame is contoured at the front to match the heavier barrel. Unless the barrel and frame are matched, the new barrel installation will result in an ugly joint between the barrel and frame.
 
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