Swapping Trigger/Hammer On A 27-2

Wyatt Burp

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My "new" 3 1/2" 27-2 is my favorite S&W. But iI find the fat target trigger and hammer very uncomfortable and distracting. Are the parts S&W use now identical to 1978 parts? I won't be doing it but would like to know where to get the service trigger and hammer, how big a deal to have someone install them, and what I'd expect to pay for the parts. I have access to good gunsmiths though this is no doubt an easy job that many here do themselves. Actually, if there's an N frame smooth service trigger like I think the L frame has, I'd prefer that. But it must look factory and be casehardened. Thanks ahead of time.

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I had a 25-5 done for double action, and had the gunsmith round, narrow, and smooth the stock target hammer. Starting with the large trigger made it possible to really end up with a great, and very usable trigger-single or double-and improved accuracy and confidence in both modes. I retained the target hammer, as I prefer them. Work was done by Pinnacle.
 
I do not believe that the currently produced parts will work in your 27-2. Howver, you should be able to find a standard hammer and trigger by posting a want ad in the forum. At one time they were readilly available for purchase as replacement parts.
 
There are some around if you dig for them. I also hate the wide target triggers and have replaced or modified all of mine so they are smooth and thin. New or used parts may or may not "drop in". Sometimes you get lucky. If they don't careful fitting will be required and it is best done by someone who knows what they're doing or the part may be rendered unusable very quickly.
 
You can send them off to Jim Stroh and have him work them over and then he sends out to Turnbull for CCH. He did the hammer and trigger on one for me.

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Triggers for K, L, and N frame are will fit all three frames. I have not tired to fit a MIM trigger in an older frame, so don't know how that would work. I would want an older trigger and hammer and have those fit to your gun. I like to keep original parts and use replacement parts that I like better. However, refitting the existing parts is an option and you might prefer that way of dealing with it.
 
I have a model 28 that I would love to have target hammer and trigger on. I hunt with it and the larger hammer and trigger make a huge difference. Maybe one of you guys out here would know if the parts are interchangeable- If so I would be interested in buying your take offs if they are for sale.
 
MIM (new style)trigger and hammer are interchangeable with forged parts (old style). You must get the assemblies as the trigger lever is different on the trigger. The sear and stirup is different on the hammer. Hand is interchangeable and works with both but the hand spring is different.
After doing several trigger jobs, I'm going to go against the grain here and say I like the MIM parts better. They need very little clean up ( and no flaking off chrome like on the old chrome ones)to make a nice trigger and are WAY easier to take apart in the fact that they have no pins to drive out. IMO
 
MIM (new style)trigger and hammer are interchangeable with forged parts (old style).
Carefull there. "Old style" forged hammers have hammer mounted firing pins. I'm not aware of an MIM hammer with a hammer mounted firing pin. The triggers will usually interchange, sometimes the MIM triggers won't work with a forged cylinder stop. You have to use an MIM cylinder stop also. I don't think there are "color case hardened" appearing MIM hammers or triggers.
 
Carefull there. "Old style" forged hammers have hammer mounted firing pins. I'm not aware of an MIM hammer with a hammer mounted firing pin. The triggers will usually interchange, sometimes the MIM triggers won't work with a forged cylinder stop. You have to use an MIM cylinder stop also. I don't think there are "color case hardened" appearing MIM hammers or triggers.

Right I forgot to mention the firing pins. Smith did make some forged hammers for frame mounted firing pins.(I have one in a 627PC). I have the stock hammer(Forged) bobbed and a full MIM hammer for competition in classes that require no mods. to the hammer. They switch in a few minutes. I also have put a MIM trigger in a gun with a forged hammer. Only done this once but I didn't have to change cylinder stop.
Sorry for any confusion.
 
MIM (new style)trigger and hammer are interchangeable with forged parts (old style). You must get the assemblies as the trigger lever is different on the trigger. The sear and stirup is different on the hammer. Hand is interchangeable and works with both but the hand spring is different.
After doing several trigger jobs, I'm going to go against the grain here and say I like the MIM parts better. They need very little clean up ( and no flaking off chrome like on the old chrome ones)to make a nice trigger and are WAY easier to take apart in the fact that they have no pins to drive out. IMO

Never work. Smith fans KNOW:
MIM parts are junk
Pinned barrels are better
IL will ALWAYS fail
Pre 27's are better than 27's:rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:
 
Smith did make some forged hammers for frame mounted firing pins.(I have one in a 627PC).

I don't think there are "color case hardened" appearing MIM hammers or triggers.

My 547 has the frame mounted firing pin (I think it was necessary in the weird design of this model), and is case hardened looking.

I always assumed it was MIM because it didn't have the firing pin on the hammer, but now that I look at it I think it might be forged, because the trigger is the same material and is not hollow in the back like the MIM trigger on my 686-5.

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