Swr Spectre II an 15-22?

[roadkill45]

yeah for real don't over tighten especially if you are going to leave it on for an extended period. taking it on and off can affect your POA/POI also, although minutely as far as i have found.
i had one original Pilot that was basically soldered onto the end of the barrel threads. Had to take the barrel off (Colt LE) and the armorer had to clamp it and use some witches brew and a breaker bar to get the thing off. it finally after soaking, heat, wrench...wash, rinse, repeat, finally came off w/o any damage to either barrel or can.
the armorer suggested using some anti seize on the threads if it is going on a dedicated host like my target and small game .22's.

this is just due to the lead actually trying to fuse it all together. if you have a sealed can you can send it off to stalking rhino and get it jail broken into a user serviceable can.

centerfires don't lead up due to the copper casings, so most are not take aparts and will come clean with normal cleaning procedures. but that .22 lead, especially sub sonic will make you can weigh 2 pounds more than what it did new after awhile, if you can't break it apart.

i use a harbor freight media blaster with either walnut shells or corn cob to blast all of the baffles. ensure that you do it outside and wear long sleeves and a respirator....that lead dust is nasty.

if nothing is aluminum on your can, say my Trek Ti, i can use the 'Dip' to clean it, but it will eat aluminum like Rosey eats cake!

 

[datsthat]

Fyi the reason why you need a spacer of some type is because with out one, your crown would be too close to your blast baffle. Which causes abnormal/unwanted turbulence which will cause keyholes and non consistent POI.

I learned by trial and error.

 

[roadkill45]

you are correct in that. most times they will not screw all the way down to the shoulder, will just stop with 2-3 threads showing or no threads but a space. I know on most they have their own internal shoulder that stops the can at it's measured point so it won't go on any farther, hence the spacer, washer, nut, etc you use to bridge that gap.

i still use the spacer/washer that was originally behind the FH on the 15-22. you put it cone end first, then the can and they mate up perfect. hand tighten and it will go in til about the last thread.

a lot of the guys that have cans just use the shims to get the company lettering/logo to line up perfectly on the side that it is on. i really don't care, mine is almost at the bottom on several hosts!

some cans are simply made for rifles..IDK why but they screw on pistols perfect but not all the way or too much on rifles. the minimal distance really should not be a problem, it's just the way they cut their threads.
I know my Gemteks work perfect on rifles, but i need a spacer on a pistol! AAC exact opposite.

should be a standard! Oh and don't get into .30 cans, they are sometimes even worse!!!

 

[Dirt Dart]

Fyi the reason why you need a spacer of some type is because with out one, your crown would be too close to your blast baffle. Which causes abnormal/unwanted turbulence which will cause keyholes and non consistent POI.

I learned by trial and error.

I have not seen anything of that nature with my Element.

 

[roadkill45]

me neither, never had a baffle strike, which would be the only thing that would make it keyhole, most of your turbulence is inside of the 'blast chamber'. i said above that you were correct in that most .22's will need a spacer with a can...my P22 is an exception, screws right to the shoulder. same with my tactical solutions fluted barrel on my 10-22 and my Ruger Charger, thread right to the shoulder w/o a spacer. the 15-22 is an exception, these are the AAC's. they are the only ones that need the spacer. Gemteks need a small one on pistols, but i only use them on .22 and one 9mm, 5.56, no spacer required.

just tried a 5.56 trek on my 15-22, perfect fit, same on the rugers, and actually all my .22 pistols. my huntertown do not need anything, just screw them on and go to town!

bottom line...if you feel you need a spacer to take up the slack of the extra length of the threads on the 15-22 then go for it. don't matter what you use, could be a bottle cap, your just flushing it with an artificial shoulder anyway.

this horse is dead from a beating, should have been a long time ago. don't know why i keep posting. out here!