Terrible leading in new 642-1

JayFramer

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Hello everybody, this is my brand new 642-1:

gun2.jpg


It's pretty nice so far. Trigger is stiff and gritty, but I've heard it gets better with firing and dry firing (with snap caps of course).

Well, today I took it to the range for the first time. It shot well but when I got home I was dismayed to see that the bore had leaded severely from just 50 rounds of Prvi Partisan 158 gr. LRN standard pressure ammo. :( The rifling was nearly full of lead, so I soaked the bore with Hoppe's #9 and scrubbed it thoroughly with a steel tornado brush.

I got a number of tiny lead specks to break loose that I could hear dropping onto a plastic bag I was cleaning on, but much of the lead is still in the bore. This is not normal for me, I have never had a revolver lead up so bad from just 50 rounds of ammo. What's even stranger is that this is a brand new from the factory gun.

I already have some Chore Boy copper scouring pads coming in the mail (can't find any locally). I hear these do a really good job at removing lead from bores, and I would rather not buy a commercial lead removal tool if I can help it.

My question is, why did my new gun do this? I plan on using this piece for concealed carry and I plan to train with it often. I just feel like there might be something wrong with the gun for it to do that. Is the normal with new 642s/J-frames? Have any recommendations on how to clean the bore with a Chore Boy pad?

Thanks for your time! :)
 
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I have had no issues with mine and I shoot exclusively lead reloads through it. I would try a different ammo.
 
Nothing wrong with the gun. There may simply be a mis-match between bullet and bore diameters or the bullets are of the wrong hardness for the velocity. Just try another brand.

How does it shoot with your self defense ammo?
 
Strongly suggest not using a steel brush in the bore again. It's too hard a metal for the bore and can damage it. Stick with brass or copper.
 
I'm not familiar with 'Privi', but since I reload, that doesn't mean they're an off-brand. With really heavy leading, like you're having, my first suspicion is the bullet is too small for the barrel. When the flame can get past the bullet, instead of pushing it, horrible leading is the result. The easiest solution is, as stated above, try one of the more popular name brands.

Could be a lot of things, but start with the simplest fix. Let us know.

Oh, and clean the barrel really well before you go shooting again.
 
Commercialy loaded lead rounds are your biggest problem. You need to reload and size bullets to .3585 and use 50/50 lube. Keep velocity around 800-900fps.

Fine 0000 steel wool is OK to use for removing lead. Wrap wool strands around .357 brush then scrub. Be careful around crown of barrel
 
Fine 0000 steel wool is OK to use for removing lead. Wrap wool strands around .357 brush then scrub. Be careful around crown of barrel
That's a stainless steel barrel; I don't believe steel wool is advised for risk of rusting particulates left behind from the wool.
 
Hey guys thanks, I'm considering buying a Lewis lead removal kit from Brownells. I usually shoot cheap LRN .38s because I don't reload and it's all I can afford. I was going to just use Chore Boy copper pads but I've read the Lewis kit does a better job at this and can also clean chamber mouths and forcing cones.
 
Shoot soft lead ammo? Get leading.

Shoot bargain/budget ammo? You may only get what you pay for in some ways.

I stopped using LRN & LSWC for normal practice & training a long time ago. Why? I dislike cleaning (scrubbing) lead from cylinder charge holes and barrels. Ok, I'm lazy. Having to clean a LOT of other people's guns as an armorer can take the glamor off of cleaning my own guns. ;)

Can you afford the budget 130gr FMJ loads? You're still going to get some leading, as the bases are exposed lead, which can melt and be deposited as the burning gasses push the bullet along the way (unless you're buying Speer TMJTMC loads), but it's less than when ramming soft lead through the gun.

BTW, I'd strongly suggest you stick with using brass/bronze brushes for cleaning. Stainless steel brushes can more easily (and more quickly) damage, scratch, wear cylinder throats & rifling (and muzzle crowns). Even as an armorer I've become VERY judicious of when I MIGHT take out a stainless bore (or other) brush.

Also, don't use anything other than nylon brushes and a good CLP on the coated aluminum frame. You can risk damaging the the clearcoat and break through the anodizing using metal brushes and zeal.

Just some thoughts.

Congrats on the 642. My first Airweight was a 642-1. I picked up another one when they first released some new production versions a few years ago (initially just to get rid of some older frames that had been taking up space in their parts inventory). Great little 5-shot guns.
 
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UPDATE!

After "scouring" (no pun intended! :D) my local area for Chore Boy brand copper scouring pads, I found ONE box left at ACE hardware, this was after checking just about every grocery store in my county.

I used a .30 caliber bore brush with a good bit of chore boy material wrapped around it and scrubbed the heck out of my bore. Sure enough, after a few goes it was shiny clean!

I think I learned a lesson that my new gun doesn't like unjacketed ammo, at least the load I was using!
 
I have a 637 that leaded badly, the forcing cone was poorly machined at the factory, S&W replaced the barrel.

Shot wad-cutters in it today and it's much cleaner.
 
You might want to stay away from second rate ammo produced to questionable quality standards by a manufacturer in a formerly communist country with little to no history of making anything but steel cased, full metal jacket military ammunition. Just my thoughts.
 
You might want to stay away from second rate ammo produced to questionable quality standards by a manufacturer in a formerly communist country with little to no history of making anything but steel cased, full metal jacket military ammunition. Just my thoughts.

I have fired tens of thousands of rounds of Privi ammo, both FMJ rifle and soft / hollow points rifle / pistol and never had an issue with them. I do not doubt that their 38 RNL loads may be soft, but they certainly don't fit the description of 'questionable quality control'...
 
I had the same experience with CCI Blazer LRN in my model 620. So, what's the common element between the 620 and 642? Both feature barrels rifled by Electro Chemical Machining. It's my belief that the ECM rifled barrels are MUCH more sensitive to lubrication with lead bullets than traditional cut rifling. Partly due to this and partly out of concern about lead exposure I now only shoot either plated or jacketed ammunition in my handguns.

BTW, the ECM rifling is rather easy to identify. All you have to look for is rifling that has the lands and grooves radiused so there aren't any sharp corners. It's sort of a blend between the polygonal rifling used by Glock and the traditional cut rifling. Which is why I believe it's lubrication sensitive.

So, if you reload and use the correct type of lube you can shoot lead bullets. However, purchase cheap commercial ammo featuring soft lead bullets and little to no lubrication and you get a severely leaded barrel.
 
also keep in mind that in a new gun, the rifling is sharp. might have better luck shooting 500 or so jacketed loads in it then trying lead afterwards. the copper jackets will burnish the bore to a degree and should help reduce leading. you have the right suggestion in getting a lewis lead remover tool also. anyone that shoots lead in a handgun should have one.
 
Privi partizan is ok ammo but I use fmj. I don't know about their lead loads. Sounds like soft lead.
Like advised, try something different and check results.
 
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