The 17-3 nightmare continues.

[Aviator]

I have made numerous posts about problems I have with a 17-3
I recently bought from a member.
The first is a barrel obstruction,the second Ftf issues.
It turns out the Ftf issue is due to end play.
I took it to a s/ w smith who has 60 years experience to help me get the extractor rod out to install shims.
He was unable to remove the rod saying he would have to destroy it to do so.
He also observed the barrel obstruction where heavy leading is occurring.
The yolk has been cut and the extractor assy has the wrong spring.
The gun was presented as having no problems by a forum member.
This is very disappointing,I really like these old revolvers but had the chance to get a new 617 6inch instead and wish I had done so.
The learning has been good and I am very grateful to all of the members who tried to help fix the gun.
I will try to return the gun but it doesn't look good at this point.

Thanks again to all.

Frank

 

[Highhawk1948]

Sounds like someone needs to man up.

 

[jepp2]

I will try to return the gun but it doesn't look good at this point.

Is that because the person you bought it from is refusing?

The yolk has been cut and the extractor assy has the wrong spring.

If you couldn't get the extractor apart, how do you know it has the wrong spring? Guess I'm just a little confused. So folks have been known to use red locktite on the extractor. I could see how the seller might not know this. Sorry to hear about your continuing problems.

 

[Aviator]

Is that because the person you bought it from is refusing?



If you couldn't get the extractor apart, how do you know it has the wrong spring? Guess I'm just a little confused. So folks have been known to use red locktite on the extractor. I could see how the seller might not know this. Sorry to hear about your continuing problems.

The smith felt by looking at the end the spring he could tell it was not correct
He brought out one and compared it
He did say it was locktite as well

 

[Mike McLellan]

All of us share in the disappointment felt when a delivered gun seems less than advertised. However, before we string up the seller, we need to take a closer look at the gun. Endshake is a common problem. Depending on the ammo used, it may have not seemed as problematic to the previous owner as it has been for you. The inability of the smithy to correct the problem by disassembling the extractor may need a closer look as well. A second, or third, opinion can help in finding a solution. In addition, excessive leading, while annoying, is not a reason to question the sellers honesty. Neither is the "Cut yoke", whatever that means. I've been following your recent posts about this gun, and while I don't doubt the existence of some problems, I'm not convinced that this gun is as flawed as you think it is. Try to be patient, and solicit some more advice from someone other than the smith you've already consulted. I don't question his ability, but nobody knows everything.

 

[arjay]

It's part of the learning process of buying and tinkering with guns.After awhile these things seem tiny.

 

[Aviator]

All of us share in the disappointment felt when a delivered gun seems less than advertised. However, before we string up the seller, we need to take a closer look at the gun. Endshake is a common problem. Depending on the ammo used, it may have not seemed as problematic to the previous owner as it has been for you. The inability of the smithy to correct the problem by disassembling the extractor may need a closer look as well. A second, or third, opinion can help in finding a solution. In addition, excessive leading, while annoying, is not a reason to question the sellers honesty. Neither is the "Cut yoke", whatever that means. I've been following your recent posts about this gun, and while I don't doubt the existence of some problems, I'm not convinced that this gun is as flawed as you think it is. Try to be patient, and solicit some more advice from someone other than the smith you've already consulted. I don't question his ability, but nobody knows everything.

I hear you mike. I'm just wearing down a little.
The end shake is .005 by my checks.
Plan b is send the gun to Bolsa Gunsmiting which is a service center for s/w.
Cut yolk means a rough facing cut on the end of the yolk barrel with a sharp edge.
To me these guns should be well kept. You don't spend 700 bucks for a piece of junk. I don't mind spending considerable money to get the gun dialed in,I just need to find someone who can do it.
Does anyone on the forum do gumsmithing?

Thanks,
Frank

 

[moosedog]

Bottom line is that you should have a gun that is reliable and trouble free, unless it was advertised as having issues.
If the seller doesn't make it right, he should be drawn and quartered.

 

[bgrafsr]

If it is red Loctite preventing the extractor rod from being unscrewed from the extractor, you can try heating the cylinder with a hair dryer to help the Loctite loosen its grip. If that is not warm enough, try putting the cylinder assembly in a warm oven (no more than 200 degrees), and see if that will break the Loctite loose. Also make sure the extractor rod is being unscrewed by turning it to the right (left hand threads). The part that you say was cut is called the YOKE, not Yolk, which is the yellow portion in an egg.

 

[Aviator]

Bottom line is that you should have a gun that is reliable and trouble free, unless it was advertised as having issues.
If the seller doesn't make it right, he should be drawn and quartered.

He did say when we met that he would take it back if there were issues.
Maybe he will return my call or email later.

 

[Aviator]

If it is red Loctite preventing the extractor rod from being unscrewed from the extractor, you can try heating the cylinder with a hair dryer to help the Loctite loosen its grip. If that is not warm enough, try putting the cylinder assembly in a warm oven (no more than 200 degrees), and see if that will break the Loctite loose. Also make sure the extractor rod is being unscrewed by turning it to the right (left hand threads). The part that you say was cut is called the YOKE, not Yolk, which is the yellow portion in an egg.

Thanks for the spelling lesson. Shows how long I've been in town!

 

[Aviator]

picture of barrel

Here is a picture of my barrel issue.
My smith said it is not lead. I have cleaned it with hoppes and brush.

 

[Double-O-Dave]

Here is a picture of my barrel issue.
My smith said it is not lead. I have cleaned it with hoppes and brush.

Aviator:

If that isn't lead, then what is it? Any ideas?

I hope this works out for you.

Regards,

Dave

 

[chief38]

WOW! Very sorry to hear that a S&W Forum Member here would do that to another fellow member - that stinks!!!


It almost sounds like he tried to get over on you. Is the member who sold you the gun a "regular" or just a person using the Forum to hawk his BAD wares? If it is a regular member maybe you can come to some agreement to either return the gun and get your money back (due to false advertisement) or have him pay the repair cost. If neither can be accomplished then go ahead and warn the rest of us who he is so we don't fall int the same situation.

Just about every person that I have ever dealt with here has been respectful, honest and reasonable. I have even had members send me goods before they have received my check. I am saddened when a member here gets screwed by one of our own!!

 

[tomcatt51]

Here is a picture of my barrel issue.
My smith said it is not lead. I have cleaned it with hoppes and brush.

Something does seem a little wrong. You said on 9-26 "The gun shot well at the range today". If what we're seeing in the pic is something more drastic than lead or simple fouling there's no way it would have "shot well".

 

[Reddog]

Has the factory refused to repair it? I think that's where I would want to send it.
Dick

 

[Aviator]

Something does seem a little wrong. You said on 9-26 "The gun shot well at the range today". If what we're seeing in the pic is something more drastic than lead or simple fouling there's no way it would have "shot well".

It shot decent groups at 10 feet from a rest (1.5 in.)and all rounds came out of the barrel.At 25 yards it was all over the target but I wasn't sure if it was me or the gun so I assumed it was me. The picture is after cleaning following that session. I think there is lead due to some issue with the barrel. The high spots were not there before. That is probably splatter due to the constriction.
I don't know what is in the picture but I will not use the gun anymore until I get some resolution.
Does it look like normal building up to you? It looks a bit unusual to me. I have never seen anything like that in my 17 no dash.
I would prefer to return it due to having to send it off for repair.
If I have no other luck I will send it to Bain Davis as recommended by a member or maybe s/w.
I think some sort of lapping would be the only test of repair.

Thanks for your input

Frank


.

Thanks

Frank

 

[Aviator]

Has the factory refused to repair it? I think that's where I would want to send it.
Dick

No,the turn around time is the problem for me.

 

[Aviator]

WOW! Very sorry to hear that a S&W Forum Member here would do that to another fellow member - that stinks!!!


It almost sounds like he tried to get over on you. Is the member who sold you the gun a "regular" or just a person using the Forum to hawk his BAD wares? If it is a regular member maybe you can come to some agreement to either return the gun and get your money back (due to false advertisement) or have him pay the repair cost. If neither can be accomplished then go ahead and warn the rest of us who he is so we don't fall int the same situation.

Just about every person that I have ever dealt with here has been respectful, honest and reasonable. I have even had members send me goods before they have received my check. I am saddened when a member here gets screwed by one of our own!!

I will wait a few days before I get too negative.

Thanks

Frank

 

[chief38]

Frank,
I'm a bit puzzled as to why your GS said he would have to destroy the Ejector Rod to remove it. One would presume an old time GS would have the proper tools to do so. Even if some Bozo has Locktited it in, a GS should be able to remove it without destroying it.

Personally after the things you have stated, I would NOT want to invest one penny more in a gun like this and would try and convince the seller to do the right thing and pay to have it returned and reimburse you in full.

 

[Aviator]

Frank,
I'm a bit puzzled as to why your GS said he would have to destroy the Ejector Rod to remove it. One would presume an old time GS would have the proper tools to do so. Even if some Bozo has Locktited it in, a GS should be able to remove it without destroying it.

Personally after the things you have stated, I would NOT want to invest one penny more in a gun like this and would try and convince the seller to do the right thing and pay to have it returned and reimburse you in full.

The gun smith just did not want to take on a project. He did say maybe with heat it could be removed.
There is a another local smith I will talk to next week.
I left the seller a voice mail and email maybe I will here back from him in in a couple of days.
I agree with you on spending money on the gun but if I do get stuck with it I will probably send it back to s/w because of the barrel issue.
It would be useless to me the way it is.

Thanks for the input

 

[Gunsnwater]

Never had a 17 but my center fire revolvers the yoke and cylinder are not screwed together with the ejector rod. You need to stretch the yoke and recut the face. That takes out end play that direction so the firing pin can hit the shell. Heat is how you break loc- tight. The post above is good advise. Your smith isn't very good. There I said it. good luck.

 

[Aviator]

This forum is very cool. It is the source of my recent addiction to s/w revolvers.
The camaraderie is what makes it so.
I need to put my 17-3 in the hand of an expert and will update.

Thanks to everyone who takes time to care about someone they don't even know.

Frank

 

[Aviator]

Never had a 17 but my center fire revolvers the yoke and cylinder are not screwed together with the ejector rod. You need to stretch the yoke and recut the face. That takes out end play that direction so the firing pin can hit the shell. Heat is how you break loc- tight. The post above is good advise. Your smith isn't very good. There I said it. good luck.

Stretch the yoke is great advice.
I don't know the skill level required for that but it could be the solution.

Thank you

 

[Aviator]

Don't you have to remove the cylinder to stretch the yoke?

 

[shawn mccarver]

Get it to a real S&W service center before someone damages your revolver. I suggest also that you attempt to contact ALK8944 on this forum. He has been doing this a LONG time and he may have better answers for you.

 

[1madss]

You can also use shims to correct the end shake. Although .005 is not all that much. I've seen some quote as much as .010 is still within spec. That's way too much IMO. Too little and the ejector star can drag on the frame as carbon starts to build up on the front of the cylinder.

 

[Culina]

I am not sure what exactly is wrong with the revolver, but I think you should find another "gunsmith" just because someone claims they have x amount of experience still doesn't mean they are good or masters at what they do; this is true for most trades.

 

[anoblefox]

OK Frank why did you not contact me before now? I am the seller. I have owned this gun for nearly 20 years and there is absolutely nothing wrong with it. Frank inspected it for nearly a half hour and was very critical of everything, with feeler gauges, a bore light and other tools. At this point I became concerned that Frank would surely find something wrong no matter how slight. I will say this again, there is absolutely NOTHING wrong with this gun, in fact I could not choose which model 17 that I wanted to let go of, the other being a no-dash . Frank wanted a dash 3. After considerable inspection time I told him that I wanted to revoke the sale. I told him that I would rather wait a year until I retire to sell it. He insisted that he wanted to complete the purchase. I suggest Frank that you send it to someone in the forum for an un-bias inspection including shooting the gun.

 

[varmint243]

Sometimes I think people just get way to spun up over the most trifling stuff.
This forum seem to perpetuate some of that.
IMO The pic of the bore looks like it might be a little leading.
When I shot a bunch of Remington 22's I'd get that.
It cleans up easily, doesn't really hurt anything.