The .32-20 Hand Ejector Thread

[MKT]

Well, I'm late to this soiree but only because I needed to get a group shot of my three.

The 6.5 inch barrel 1905 was my first. It shipped to Salt Lake City in 1912 (the only one I've lettered to date). The blue 4 inch I found in Columbus, GA for a half a song, I knew it had been refinished but it was unbelievable inexpensive. It also wears an importer mark under the grips, guessing it probably went to Mexico and found its way back north. The nickel 4 inch is my most recent pick-up and is pretty clean. They all shoot great.

 

[Frank46]

Just signed up recently.I really enjoyed the large assortment of 32-20 revolvers. Thank you very much for sharing. If you ever come across 32-20 ammunition marked high velocity do not fire it in your revolvers. Think its a 60 grain bullet loaded to approximately 2000fps. And when did S&W start heatreating the cylinders of those revolvers in 32-20 caliber. Thanks again, Frank

 

[Hondo44]

Just signed up recently.I really enjoyed the large assortment of 32-20 revolvers. Thank you very much for sharing. If you ever come across 32-20 ammunition marked high velocity do not fire it in your revolvers. Think its a 60 grain bullet loaded to approximately 2000fps. And when did S&W start heatreating the cylinders of those revolvers in 32-20 caliber. Thanks again, Frank

The 1917 45 ACPs had the 1st heat teated cylinders. Other models began in 1920.

 

[Muley Gil]

The SCSW, 3rd Ed, states that heat treated cylinders in .32-20s started at SN 81287

 

[Cricker]

I knew I never should have read this thread. The one in my post above is now mine less the MOP grips. Anyone have a good source of 32-20 ammo?

32-20 ammo is still available new. It should run around $45 per 50 rounds. We carry a box or 2 in our shop at all times and the wholesaler currently has 45 boxes in stock. Your local shop should be able to aquire it for you.

 

[FirebirdV8]

Saddly, I couldn't convince my buddy to sell this one to me, but I cleaned it up for him and helped keep it from going too far down the long slow deadly path of rust. It is a 4th change variation with serial number 996XX and a 5 inch barrel. In a way, not being able to get this one is saving me from having to add another cartridge to my reloading list, but they certainly do seem to be nice guns, maybe I will try to pick one up anyway.

 

[RDG32-20]

Can I add my 32-20

I can not believe I haven't found this site before. What a wealth of knowledge. I have this 32-20, serial number 505XX that was my fathers and his fathers before that. I do not know if my Grandfather bought it new but I guess from reading this thread, I could apply for a letter from S&W which may tell me. This is a fun shooting gun, and I am now able to reload for it so the fun will continue. My wife enjoys shooting it and I can load a minimum load which will make it even better. My only problem is that my old eyes are having a very hard time with the sights. I've seen some mention of Wondersights which may work but I would also entertain putting a Crimson Trace laser grip on it if they make one that would fit. Would this be considered a "K" frame? Has anyone already explored this possibility? Well thanks for all the info on these fine guns and I'm glad that there are others enjoying them as much as I.

 

[tom32]

My 4 inch also went to Salt Lake City in 1912, Western Arms Sporting Goods Store on October 14th.

Well, I'm late to this soiree but only because I needed to get a group shot of my three.



The 6.5 inch barrel 1905 was my first. It shipped to Salt Lake City in 1912 (the only one I've lettered to date). The blue 4 inch I found in Columbus, GA for a half a song, I knew it had been refinished but it was unbelievable inexpensive. It also wears an importer mark under the grips, guessing it probably went to Mexico and found its way back north. The nickel 4 inch is my most recent pick-up and is pretty clean. They all shoot great.

 

[DCWilson]

I can not believe I haven't found this site before. What a wealth of knowledge. I have this 32-20, serial number 505XX that was my fathers and his fathers before that. I do not know if my Grandfather bought it new but I guess from reading this thread, I could apply for a letter from S&W which may tell me. This is a fun shooting gun, and I am now able to reload for it so the fun will continue. My wife enjoys shooting it and I can load a minimum load which will make it even better. My only problem is that my old eyes are having a very hard time with the sights. I've seen some mention of Wondersights which may work but I would also entertain putting a Crimson Trace laser grip on it if they make one that would fit. Would this be considered a "K" frame? Has anyone already explored this possibility? Well thanks for all the info on these fine guns and I'm glad that there are others enjoying them as much as I.

RDG, welcome to the forum. With that serial number, your gun was probably shipped in 1911 or 1912. You should find the same serial number on the underside of the barrel and on the rear face of the cylinder as well as the underside of the ejector star and face of the crane that abuts the front of the cylinder. But you may not be able to see those last two without partially disassemblng the revolver.

Those stocks, however, date to the 1920s; we can tell because they do not have the S&W medallions at the top of each panel, a design characteristic found in that decade. You may find a serial number on the inner right panel, probably in pencil. But if there is no serial number on the stocks, don't worry about it.

A letter will tell you the exact date the gun was shipped from the factory and the destination. Usually that is a hardware store or regional distributor, but in rare cases a gun was shipped to an individual who ordered it directly from the factory. You pays your money ($50) and takes your chances.

 

[RDG32-20]

RDG, welcome to the forum. With that serial number, your gun was probably shipped in 1911 or 1912. You should find the same serial number on the underside of the barrel and on the rear face of the cylinder as well as the underside of the ejector star and face of the crane that abuts the front of the cylinder. But you may not be able to see those last two without partially disassemblng the revolver.

Those stocks, however, date to the 1920s; we can tell because they do not have the S&W medallions at the top of each panel, a design characteristic found in that decade. You may find a serial number on the inner right panel, probably in pencil. But if there is no serial number on the stocks, don't worry about it.

A letter will tell you the exact date the gun was shipped from the factory and the destination. Usually that is a hardware store or regional distributor, but in rare cases a gun was shipped to an individual who ordered it directly from the factory. You pays your money ($50) and takes your chances.

Very interesting. I found all the same numbers at the locations you mentioned except on what you referred to as the crane and on the frame just above where the crane afixes. At those two locations there are the numbers 2513. I believe the frame is one piece, so I don't know why that number would be stamped there with a different number than on the butt.
I had noticed by all the pictures throughout this tread that the medallions were not on the grips but I thought it just had something to do with the different changes. I did find the number 391947 written in pencil on the inside of the grip. I guess this gun was damaged sometime along the way and the crane and grips where replaced.
You have provided all the information I really need and I will have to think about the $50 letter. This gun will never be sold - at least not by me. Sure do thank you for all the info.

Richard

 

[sheriffoconee]

My 32-20 4 inch nickel....all number match except the stocks...serial number 68158. Great little gun, fun to shoot...I haven't lettered it yet, but I will soon.....bought it about 6 months ago at a LGS, $250 OTD....great deal in my book

 

[Casehardn]

Picked up this one a few months ago. 6-1/2 inch bbl. She's seen some use, but still is pretty. Model 1905 1st change. I put the serial somewhere around 1907.

 

[Hondo44]

Very interesting. I found all the same numbers at the locations you mentioned except on what you referred to as the crane and on the frame just above where the crane afixes. At those two locations there are the numbers 2513. I believe the frame is one piece, so I don't know why that number would be stamped there with a different number than on the butt.
Richard

Richard, I think you may have misunderstood David about the crane serial #. It's on the back side of the crane facing the front of the cylinder. You can only see it by looking thru one chamber with a flashlight. I'm sure you have an all matching original gun. The other #s you observe in the crane are factory assembly #s and will match a number on the inside of the sideplate but are otherwise useless.

 

[W.E.G.]

1905 3rd Change Model. Made between 1909-1915.

 

[W.E.G.]

...and a peek under the skirt

 

[sheriffoconee]

1905 3rd Change Model. Made between 1909-1915.

what's the serial number on yours????

 

[bmg60]

hi
here is my family photo of my 32.20,s 18 in this picture but there are two more targets that are not in this picture.
enjoy the picture.
Jim Fisher.

 

[mikepriwer]

As long as we are doing this, here is a 4" target:

Dave Chicoine refinished it, and KB recheckered the grips. Otherwise
all original, with matching numbers - even the grips.

Regards, Mike Priwer

 

[ColbyBruce]

My one and only, a 1905 4th change that I traded for yesterday evening. The stocks are not numbered at all, the bore and chambers are clean. Lots of holster wear along both sides of the barrel, freckling over a good portion of it. Not sure what I will do with it at this point, but thought of having it nickeled. That thought did not go over real well.

 

[MJS5678]

#74885, shipped September 1917, caught and released this year.