Is there a suggested person that does this kind of work? These guys are becoming lost gems. I have not found any that I would trust in central IL or IN.
The .32-20 Hand Ejector Thread
- Thread starter bmcgilvray
- Start date
Is there a suggested person that does this kind of work? These guys are becoming lost gems. I have not found any that I would trust in central IL or IN.
I don't know anything about them, but have you tried Civic Duty Gunsmithing? They seem to be good enough to build their own parts. But, before you take it to a gunsmith, doing a good cleaning of the action may resolve the issue. That gun is 100 years old and may have a varnish or crud buildup on the SA sear. The best way to clean it is to remove the sideplate so you can get a brass brush in there to scrub it. Just be sure to not mix up the sideplate screws as the lower forward screw MUST go back into its hole. Also, don't pry the sideplate to remove it. Rap the bare grip frame with the wooden or plastic handle of a tool like a hammer and it'll vibrate free. The sideplate is swaged to the frame and fits very tightly.
Pardon my rudeness. Welcome to the forums from the Wiregrass, mlward!
If you don't feel comfortable doing that, then a soak in auto trans fluid for about a week followed by a flush through the hammer and/or trigger openings with aerosol carb/parts/brake cleaner until the effluent runs clear may do it. Just take the grips off before you soak the gun. For extra crud removal, mix the ATF half and half with acetone and put everything is a sealable, chemical resistant container. After flushing, lightly lube the action with a good gun oil...about 5 drops is plenty and a drop on the yoke arm and ejector rod. She'll probably last another hundred years.
Pardon my rudeness. Welcome to the forums from the Wiregrass, mlward!
If you don't feel comfortable doing that, then a soak in auto trans fluid for about a week followed by a flush through the hammer and/or trigger openings with aerosol carb/parts/brake cleaner until the effluent runs clear may do it. Just take the grips off before you soak the gun. For extra crud removal, mix the ATF half and half with acetone and put everything is a sealable, chemical resistant container. After flushing, lightly lube the action with a good gun oil...about 5 drops is plenty and a drop on the yoke arm and ejector rod. She'll probably last another hundred years.
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That's what I had to do with mine. Full of dried grease. Toothbrush, fingernails and a couple of cans of Remcleaner fixed her right up.
I've had good luck with Frank Glenn. Frank Glenn-Glenn Custom Complete Gunsmithing Service Glendale AZ
Gratuitous photo:
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Thanks for the reply. I have taken many smiths apart exactly as you describe. I had not even given that a bit of thought, I certainly will work on that with him.
Thanks for the welcome. Have not posted much, but have watched for years as I collect and shoot many of the pre-hillary 600 series smiths. BTW, my default cleaner is 1/3rd of each, Pro-Shot (red), ATF and Kroil. Often a good soak works very well indeed.
Didn't mean to patronize you. But we often get new posters that are unfamiliar with how to maintain a Smith. Sounds like you got it well in hand. I'll bet you got some really nice guns to show us. Let's see them.
Guy
Guy
daddio202
Member
I enjoy the 32-20 ctg so I have a few. From left to right the first 2 are of a nice shooter the third picture is a refinished 32-20 I bought to shoot and it lives in the range bag then the last 2 pictures are of a rather nice shape gun that does not get shot near as often. They all are a real joy to shoot and very accurate. Enjoy
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You know, I do need to do that. I will make the true collectors cringe, but if I own it, I shoot it with 2 or 3 S&W exceptions. I have most of the 610's and 657's and they are my favorites. Love the little 3" unflutted Hortons. Yes, I shoot all of them. I did keep a 631 in the box unfired and a 627 new in the box... I think I have an unflutted 625 LC new in the safe also. But, for the most part it gets shot, I cannot look at them with out shooting them. Now, most have never seen a jacketed round in their life.
But, I really like the older revolvers. Have been chasing a good example of a blued 32/20 for years and can't say no to a pre-10 in decent shape. I would also not mind a 44/40. What I don't own, other than a Horton are any 629's. I got hooked on 41 mag early and never went to the 44.
I love this site, have lurked for years and never felt that I had any value that I could contribute... still do not but value the info and most replies to posts.
mrchuck
Member
I have a question:
I have a full box of Remington High Performance Rifle 32-20 ammo.
This is exactly what it says on the box.
Can this be shot in a pistol safely??
I used to have the rifle, but sold it several years ago when we lived back in Texas.
There is a Gun Show coming up on Nov 7 in Gardnerville, Nevada.
I will take this full box of ammo to it and trade or sell it.
I paid 51.95 for it.
Any interest here on this forum??
I have a full box of Remington High Performance Rifle 32-20 ammo.
This is exactly what it says on the box.
Can this be shot in a pistol safely??
I used to have the rifle, but sold it several years ago when we lived back in Texas.
There is a Gun Show coming up on Nov 7 in Gardnerville, Nevada.
I will take this full box of ammo to it and trade or sell it.
I paid 51.95 for it.
Any interest here on this forum??
Wilson Custom Guns
Member
Hi there,
I guess this thread is dead now, but you asked who had the earliest 32-20 Hand Ejector?
I have .32-20 first model (model of 1899), serial number 90, lettered as October 26 1901, 6.5" barrel, nickel finish, Black hard rubber grips.
She's pretty rough, but all there.
I guess this thread is dead now, but you asked who had the earliest 32-20 Hand Ejector?
I have .32-20 first model (model of 1899), serial number 90, lettered as October 26 1901, 6.5" barrel, nickel finish, Black hard rubber grips.
She's pretty rough, but all there.
I don't believe that these threads ever die, they live on for posterity. I might as well throw my .32-20 into the mix...although I've posted it before. This is my only .32-20, a Model of 1905 4th Change from the mid-1920s (s/n 118705). It's in original condition except for the copper bead added to the front sight.
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lgeorge1
Member
hsguy - where did you find those grips? I have a reg. magnum & would love to put a set on it.Here is another.
lgeorge1
Member
It's kinda late, but that box of ammo should say something like "safe in all modern firearms" somewhere on the back.
An Old 32-20
This is my oldest 32-20 and my oldest HE it's ser# is 2388 so it must be around 1900-01 first model. I was told it belonged to a law officer. But whatever the story is, it's a great fire arm and a pleasure to shoot.
I have four others in 32-20 but this is the one that l like most. The later ones don't fill your hand the way that this one does
Ted
This is my oldest 32-20 and my oldest HE it's ser# is 2388 so it must be around 1900-01 first model. I was told it belonged to a law officer. But whatever the story is, it's a great fire arm and a pleasure to shoot.
I have four others in 32-20 but this is the one that l like most. The later ones don't fill your hand the way that this one does
Ted
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My 1899 .32-20, #4287, shipped in September 1901. Yours must have been built and stuck in the back of the vault and the ones built afterwards sold before yours, unless a 6 1/2" nickel wasn't popular. Who knows for sure, after all these years?
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DWalt
Member
Colt was also in the .32-20 business and offered at least six models in that caliber. I have both an Army Model (1910) an an Official Police Model (1932) in .32-20. It was also the most popular chambering in the Colt Bisley Model. The 32-20 SAA and Bisley models pre-dated the S&W Model of 1899 in .32-20 by about 10 years.
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