During Wednesday I came to the conclusion that while I love Nashville as the home of country music, it's sheer size and traffic volume means that there is no way I would, or could, ever live here. Especially if living here meant living out of the inner city.
Neither of us really slept well Tuesday night, although I refrained from getting up and turning on the laptop. We were both fully awake just after 6.30. After reading the news, the bathroom routine, and dressing we went down to breakfast before 8. The breakfast had a good range with both hot and continental food available, but someone forgot to turn the power on to the hot food containers, it was cold!
The first stop was Budget car rentals at Nashville airport. Traffic was stop/start for a lot of the trip. Once we arrived the signage was great and the staff at Budget agreed to a car exchange. Apart from the low tire pressure warning, there had been a service due warning since Monday, the issues with Apple Play and the door locks were playing up a bit, not working with the little buttons on the door handles and sometimes needing three of four pushes of the remote to unlock.
The attendant initially told me that the service had been done "about 1000 miles ago". Then he found out we had travelled just under 2,500 miles in 12 days and it was, in fact, due in about another 400 miles.
We swapped the Honda SR-V for a Kia Forte. It is certainly sportier looking (4 door sedan vs hatchback) but the interior feels smaller and it lacks some of the refinements of the Honda. No adaptive cruise control, which requires being turned on manually after every engine start, and a few other little kinks that it took most of the day to work out.
From the airport it was into town to tour the Ryman Auditorium. I had decided to park as close as could to the destination, in fact it was only 25 yards to the Ryman once we made the street level again. It was getting to street level that was the problem.
iMaps took us to the Broadway & 5th parking building on the Commerce St side, and we finally found a parking space on the 6th floor level. On the way up I had been paying attention to empty spaces (levels 1 -4 were all reserved and level 5 full). I had not seen any elevator signs although Karen had, and for once she was not insistent. Once parked I went looking for the elevators which in Kiwi buildings are usually near the stairs or in the corners. I couldn't see anything (I should have rounded another corner) so we went down the stairs.
Karen has been retaining fluid in her ankles for the last few days. She avoids taking the medication that helps shed the water as it can effect her kidneys long term, although she has been taking it since Monday. Today she was wearing flat soled sandals as her shoes were still too tight, and by the time we reached the street level (the last two flights were almost as long as the previous four had been) she was having a bit of trouble walking with her ankle pain.
Crossing 5th Ave, which fronts what is now the Ryman's rear, we walked around to the front and the entrance. Karen sat in the shade while I got our tickets, and once inside where she saw the stairs we had to climd to the balcony level to start the tour, she sat on a seat and told me to go ahead without her. As I was scanned in I was told there was an elevator around the corner. I turned to tell Karen and she sigalled me just to go, she would stay where she was.
Steve Earl was playing the Ryman that night so the stage and backstage area was off limits. Pity, backstage was what I was looking forward to seeing. We had been here last time to attend the Grand Ole Opry, but had not paid much attention to the place, other than our seats and the show. I had not even been aware of the displays around both the interior and the lobby's of the building.
On the second floor I was told a video had just started and the next screening was in 15 minutes. I was advised to look around and be back by then to watch it. I toured the balcony level and turned around to return when I found Karen and come up and was looking around.
We went back to the balcony level lobby and watched the video then turned the lower floor. Karen sat in a pew while I got some photos from the stage front steps then found the seats we had been in to see The Opry show. At Air Castle Studio I decided I would record "King of the road" but whenI went around to the front to sign it there were no morning sessions today.
With our Ryman tour over we exited to walk to Broadway. Our next stop was to be Tootsies Orchid Lounge. By the time we made Broadway Karen was struggling to walk. We entered the first honky tonk we came to, Dierks Bentley's Whiskey Row. Even at 11.30 the band was LOUD and there were a lot of customers. We found a seat, I went up and ordered two lemonade's (which I wasn't charged for) so we decided we had better have an early lunch. Karen had the CLT (chicken, lettuce and tomato) while I had the Whiskey Burger.
Confession: I had never eaten Jalapeño's before. I was told they were pretty hot so had avoided them. A piece of one had fallen out of my burger so I ate it. It was sweet, then the heat hit me. I had to have a swallow of my drink. While eating the rest of the burger the Jalapeño heat was hidden "in the mix". I will certainly be trying them again.
I was surprised by the cost of our lunch. This trip basic meals have been costing us around $50 for two, and even Subway has been $25 or so. This lunch came to $38, with three lemonades (I was bought a refill by the waitress). With lunch over we started back to the car. I got a few photos of the honky tonks I wanted to visit on the way. At 5th Ave S though ,Karen found a seat and asked me to bring the car to her, which I did.
It took me just over 10 minutes to walk to the car, find a place where I had decent phone reception (I had only 1 bar on the 6th floor level) and pay for the parking before returning to Karen. I offered to take her home to rest up while I went and did some of my sightseeing, which she agreed to.
With Karen resting up in the room I headed out again for the 25 minute drive to The Bluebird Cafe. I was aware it was closed but I wanted a photo anyway. It had featured lot in the TV series Nashville and I have every episode on DVD. From The Bluebird I drove through school hour traffic to Fort Negley. Getting out of the car I was hit by the heat. The temperature was forecast to almost hit 100 F this afternoon. In fact it did hit 100 although it was "only" 97 on the car's readout when I got out.
I took a few photos of the entrance then went inside where I was pleasantly surprised to find no entry fee. I sat and watched the video, which certainly gave me a fresher perspective of the city during the 1860's and the Civil War in particular, as did the information signs on the 1/2 mile walk around the fort.
The southern side of the fort has been cleared and the stone construction is clearly on display. Most of the rest is covered by scrub and "under renovation" so it is closed to entry.
Back in the car, and close to Broadway, I returned, parked, and walked up and down entering several of the honky tonks to spend a few minutes listening to the bands. Most, at this time, were acoustic but Karen alter said even these were too loud when I showed her some video I had taken.
By 5.30 I was back in the car again, heading to our hotel. That was when I heard on the radio that the temperature had "officially" reached 100 F It was another 30 minute drive in traffic, and once I reached our room I cooled off. Karen was ready for dinner and I found a nearby cafe, Chef's Market, only a few minutes drive away (I could have walked in 5 minutes but Karen couldn't).
It was a "line up, choose your food which will be served to you then find your table" type of place, and the food was superb. No wonder we had to wait in line for over 10 minutes to reach the serving counter. Karen had meatloaf and I decided on the pot roast. I can see a few meatloaf recipes being tried out when we get home.
Once back in the hotel is was almost 8 pm. A phone call home, some TV (or in my case some online news clips) and a shower before bed just after 10 pm.