rednichols
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It's a time-honored tradition to 'break in' a holster by putting your pistol in a plastic bag then leaving it overnight to create a fit. Or is it?
The origin of wet molding is the cowboy of the late 19th century riding his saddled horse into the Rio Grande, complete with holstered pistol. This latter's purpose, according to Texas Ranger Captain Sterling's book, was to 'rust in' the Colt's screws that were known to loosen otherwise.
Right away the next steps in the process began to appear.
1911 from Heiser's gunleather catalog. This is taken from Packing Iron. Note the bare pistol is inserted, the leather is not overwetted.
1922 from an American Rifleman article. The pistol is greased to prevent rusting it from the contact with wet leather (wet leather and steel create a nasty chemical reaction on both).
1929 from a book about pistol shooting. Use of a hand tool (this is not correctly called 'boning', which is smoothing the inside of the holster) for the hand molding appears.
1956 with Charlie Askins getting carried away with wetting the holster. Note the gun is greased for the molding.
1966 the plastic bag appears in the form of what folks had available then -- cling wrap etc. IMHO the author has chosen the plastic to supplant the greasing of the pistol which can be time consuming to clean up.
The common factor is that the leather is WET and the grease then plastic wrap then plastic bag are to keep the pistol from being rusted.
The bag has no utility in a dry leather holster. It has no thickness sufficient to swell the dry holster to suit your pistol -- do the same 'breaking in' with your pistol and NO bag and you'll get the same result; made necessary at all because the holster was not dried correctly and so it shrank during the process.
It is possible to mold, on a production basis, holsters that require no 'break in'. But so much easier to liken holsters to shoes and call for a buyer to 'break in' his holster vs sending it back to the maker for correction!
P.S. The 15-20 SECONDS in hot water is absolutely correct, and no longer. Charlie's 6 hours is ridiculous and he was no leathersmith. Leaving the pistol out is correct for drying, but hot air drying vs ambient temp is best because it's not only faster, but hardens the leather for ideal holstering and drawing.
The origin of wet molding is the cowboy of the late 19th century riding his saddled horse into the Rio Grande, complete with holstered pistol. This latter's purpose, according to Texas Ranger Captain Sterling's book, was to 'rust in' the Colt's screws that were known to loosen otherwise.
Right away the next steps in the process began to appear.





The common factor is that the leather is WET and the grease then plastic wrap then plastic bag are to keep the pistol from being rusted.
The bag has no utility in a dry leather holster. It has no thickness sufficient to swell the dry holster to suit your pistol -- do the same 'breaking in' with your pistol and NO bag and you'll get the same result; made necessary at all because the holster was not dried correctly and so it shrank during the process.
It is possible to mold, on a production basis, holsters that require no 'break in'. But so much easier to liken holsters to shoes and call for a buyer to 'break in' his holster vs sending it back to the maker for correction!
P.S. The 15-20 SECONDS in hot water is absolutely correct, and no longer. Charlie's 6 hours is ridiculous and he was no leathersmith. Leaving the pistol out is correct for drying, but hot air drying vs ambient temp is best because it's not only faster, but hardens the leather for ideal holstering and drawing.
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