The S&W Equivolent of the Ruger SP101
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WNC Seabee
Member
A K frame (Model 19, 64, 10, 66, etc) would be closest, but not really equivalent.
The SP is a bit larger than the J frame and a bit smaller than the K. K's have 6 shot cylinders, SP's have 5 shot for example.
I own plenty of S&Ws, inlcuding a 2.5" Model 66, but my EDC is a 3" SP101.
The SP is a bit larger than the J frame and a bit smaller than the K. K's have 6 shot cylinders, SP's have 5 shot for example.
I own plenty of S&Ws, inlcuding a 2.5" Model 66, but my EDC is a 3" SP101.
Like he said, J is to small and K is to big. I think the model 60 would come closest for me, if I had to have something to fill the same roll. It is however several ounces lighter, so it doesn't contain as much metal. Good for carrying, but worse for recoil absorbtion.
http://www.smith-wesson.com/webapp/...57768_757767_757751_ProductDisplayErrorView_Y
http://www.smith-wesson.com/webapp/...57768_757767_757751_ProductDisplayErrorView_Y
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ScottJ
Member
SP101 is closer to the J than the K. Uses the same speedloader and fits most of the same holsters. But is several ounces heavier.
I agree that the 60 in .357 is probably the closest.
I agree that the 60 in .357 is probably the closest.
Faulkner
Member
The SP101 is kind of like a beefed up J Frame.
Stainz
Member
Here is reality. A 3" SP101, KSP-331X, weighs 27 oz and has fixed sights. A 3" 60, SKU #162430, weighs 24.5 oz. Keep in mind that they both have the same cylinder hole spacing. The Ruger has a more masive barrel shroud; the S&W, a lugged barrel. The coil spring lockwork of the S&W J-frame is smoother than the Ruger's (I am biased here - my worst-ever QC revolver was a 4" .32 H&RM SP101. It took a lot of work to clean up it's horrid trigger!).The J-frame S&W has a multitude of grip options - the grip stud of the Ruger options are much more limited in number and style. Finally - the S&W is hammer forged and heat-treated, while the Ruger is investment cast SS. Put bluntly, it takes more cast steel to equal the strength of hammer forged steel. Both revolvers are designed for SAAMI spec-ed .357M's.
For a few $ more than the above mentioned 60, I got a 60 Pro, SKU #178013:
The fixed sights of all of the .38/.357M SP101's are also irritating. A 3" barrel .357M should be available with a fully adjustable rear sight. The only SP101 to ever be released with a fully adjustable rear sight is the new - just out - 4" .22.
Stainz
For a few $ more than the above mentioned 60, I got a 60 Pro, SKU #178013:
The fixed sights of all of the .38/.357M SP101's are also irritating. A 3" barrel .357M should be available with a fully adjustable rear sight. The only SP101 to ever be released with a fully adjustable rear sight is the new - just out - 4" .22.
Stainz
HAWKEYE10
Member
Based on some of the opinions I have read over the years...
The N-Frame.... After being welded to a boat anchor.
Giz
I hear you Giz.
gjgalligan
Member
Here is reality. A 3" SP101, KSP-331X, weighs 27 oz and has fixed sights. A 3" 60, SKU #162430, weighs 24.5 oz. Keep in mind that they both have the same cylinder hole spacing. The Ruger has a more masive barrel shroud; the S&W, a lugged barrel. The coil spring lockwork of the S&W J-frame is smoother than the Ruger's (I am biased here - my worst-ever QC revolver was a 4" .32 H&RM SP101. It took a lot of work to clean up it's horrid trigger!).The J-frame S&W has a multitude of grip options - the grip stud of the Ruger options are much more limited in number and style. Finally - the S&W is hammer forged and heat-treated, while the Ruger is investment cast SS. Put bluntly, it takes more cast steel to equal the strength of hammer forged steel. Both revolvers are designed for SAAMI spec-ed .357M's.
For a few $ more than the above mentioned 60, I got a 60 Pro, SKU #178013:
The fixed sights of all of the .38/.357M SP101's are also irritating. A 3" barrel .357M should be available with a fully adjustable rear sight. The only SP101 to ever be released with a fully adjustable rear sight is the new - just out - 4" .22.
Stainz
Only problem is the lock........
Texas Star
US Veteran
The 640 is hammerless. The 649 has the hammer shrouded, with the hammer still cockable in a slot. The 60 has a normal hammer.
labworm
US Veteran
I really don't see a S&W equivalent to the SP101. A 2.6" 66 is close, but so is a 640-1, IMO.
I looked hard at the Ruger SP101 but then went with the pre lock MIM free 640-1. I've not regretted it.
I'll still probably pick up a 3" SP101 in 357 and will definitely be getting one in 22LR.
Regards 18DAI.
I looked hard at the Ruger SP101 but then went with the pre lock MIM free 640-1. I've not regretted it.
I'll still probably pick up a 3" SP101 in 357 and will definitely be getting one in 22LR.
Regards 18DAI.
Maximumbob54
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I would think a three inch Model 65 would be about as close as you could get in a K frame while the three inch Model 60 would be the closest in the J frame. I think the Hogue Monogrip may be the best thing that ever happened to the SP101, while there is an endless ongoing search for what makes the best J frame grip. I won't/can't rip on S&W for this, but it seems to be a right of passage for most S&W owners to have a shoe box or two or three of grips to dig through. Meanwhile Ruger may not have the mass of them to choose from, but what they do have works pretty well for most. I also think the original Lett insert grips are pretty darn good.
Last, and this may be more of a bust on owners/users, I have seen many wore out Smiths in need of repair or retirement, I have yet to see a wore out Ruger. The investment cast vs. forged wars will likely never end. I play both sides and feel like I'm the real winner.
So, if you can afford both, I would say buy both. If you can only afford one, I would think you will afford a SP101 faster than you will a Model 60. But truth be told either one will serve you well.
Last, and this may be more of a bust on owners/users, I have seen many wore out Smiths in need of repair or retirement, I have yet to see a wore out Ruger. The investment cast vs. forged wars will likely never end. I play both sides and feel like I'm the real winner.
So, if you can afford both, I would say buy both. If you can only afford one, I would think you will afford a SP101 faster than you will a Model 60. But truth be told either one will serve you well.
tom turner
US Veteran
IMHO, the closest Smith would be a 3" barreled J-frame with a 3" barrel. This is because both guns share a coil spring mainspring within their trigger mechanism. They are both 5 shot .357s too, but the 101 is beefier.
I consider the best 3" S&W .357 to be based on the K-frame . . . specifically either the blued or nickle plated Model 13 or the stainless version . . . the Model 65. The leaf spring mainspring affords a better trigger job than the 101 AND the S&W J-frames have . . . and, again IMHO, a great trigger is everything. It is sleek, perfectly balanced . . . comes out of the holster fast . . . points naturally . . . and drops back on target naturally too during fast, double action competition . . . or when using for self defense. There's a huge reason why many in the know crave a 3" K frame!!!
Yep . . . you'll see a few worn out K frames from 30-40 years back that were owned by very active shooters who actually practice a lot. Like any well-used tool . . . they can wear out. Big deal . . . if I ever wear out my FIRST one I'll just buy another. A revolver is much cheaper than the ammo one puts through the gun if you shoot a lot!
HOWEVER . . . most of 'em out there today of that age were, and ARE, in great shape, including my 1984-made 3" M65-3. I've won a lot of matches with this trusty and accurate revolver, and have put many thousand rounds through it too. Like most serious handgunners, I load my own ammo of course . . . can't afford to shoot a lot otherwise. She's no "safe queen," nor is it owned by a casual plinker that will never shoot much ammo through it. AND . . . it's still as tight as new!
Nothing wrong with Ruger's strong SP-101 . . . but what gun would you choose to have in your hand if trouble suddenly appeared between the 5-shot 101 and a 3" barreled, 6-shot K-frame that points, responds and shoots like a Model 65?
I consider the best 3" S&W .357 to be based on the K-frame . . . specifically either the blued or nickle plated Model 13 or the stainless version . . . the Model 65. The leaf spring mainspring affords a better trigger job than the 101 AND the S&W J-frames have . . . and, again IMHO, a great trigger is everything. It is sleek, perfectly balanced . . . comes out of the holster fast . . . points naturally . . . and drops back on target naturally too during fast, double action competition . . . or when using for self defense. There's a huge reason why many in the know crave a 3" K frame!!!
Yep . . . you'll see a few worn out K frames from 30-40 years back that were owned by very active shooters who actually practice a lot. Like any well-used tool . . . they can wear out. Big deal . . . if I ever wear out my FIRST one I'll just buy another. A revolver is much cheaper than the ammo one puts through the gun if you shoot a lot!
HOWEVER . . . most of 'em out there today of that age were, and ARE, in great shape, including my 1984-made 3" M65-3. I've won a lot of matches with this trusty and accurate revolver, and have put many thousand rounds through it too. Like most serious handgunners, I load my own ammo of course . . . can't afford to shoot a lot otherwise. She's no "safe queen," nor is it owned by a casual plinker that will never shoot much ammo through it. AND . . . it's still as tight as new!
Nothing wrong with Ruger's strong SP-101 . . . but what gun would you choose to have in your hand if trouble suddenly appeared between the 5-shot 101 and a 3" barreled, 6-shot K-frame that points, responds and shoots like a Model 65?
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