Remember to also order the windage screw and nut. When replacing the blade, you'll have to snap the windage screw to remove it. There's a good video on midwayusa.com that shows start to finish.
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The ultimate Highway Patrolman thread.including N frame ser# ranges
- Thread starter Allen-frame
- Start date
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Really? Man I wish I had known that before I ordered JUST the blade from Numrich.
I could have got the whole kit (blade, screw & nut) for just $5 more off eBay!
You're sure about that? It can't be taken apart without breaking the screw? That seems like a pretty poor design...
Well, the screw is staked in... Sometimes you can get the nut off without it breaking, but usually not. And even if you do, getting the once staked screw back into the nut is problematic, so usiually the whole set are replaced at the same time.
I think there is a thread on here somewhere in the gunsmithing section that will give more comprehensive instructions. I'm on the run right now, but if I can find it after while, I'll post the link.
Best Regards, Les
I think there is a thread on here somewhere in the gunsmithing section that will give more comprehensive instructions. I'm on the run right now, but if I can find it after while, I'll post the link.
Best Regards, Les
YouTube "replace rear sight blade on Smith & Wesson revolver" the first video should be the Midway USA video.
The windage screw is staked because if not, you cannot actually adjust windage as the screw will just thread in or out of the nut.
Sorry I didn't respond in time, or alert you sooner so you could order the kit. I don't know why they offer just the blade anyway. Makes no sense.
Do watch the video though, as it explains a lot.
Good luck! Not that you need it.
Hugh
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No need to apologize - not your fault or responsibility. I think I was able to catch it in time and cancel the Numrich order.
Thanks for the heads up. I watched the video and have a much better understanding of how it goes together now. I think I'll at least try taking it apart without breaking the screw - what have I got to lose? We'll see what happens. Worst case it breaks and I order the kit off eBay.
I still have to wonder why they stake the nut instead of using a little red locktite...
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pittpa
Member
Did somebody say they were heavy? This 28-2 comes in just an ounce under 4 lb unloaded. I saw it around the mid-90's in a LGS maybe 60 miles away and passed on it. Unbeknownst to me, a friend bought it and maybe 15 or more years later offered it for sale. I recognized it right away. 4-position rear sight.Don't know who built it. No box. Wichita rib, IIRC.
EDIT-Serial #N580xxx, so around 1978
EDIT-Serial #N580xxx, so around 1978
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Also after 2000 posts, if I have counted right, only nine 4 screw Non Model Marked Highway Patrolman revolvers have surfaced, which includes both barrel lengths. That seems to make this variation also quite scarce.
I also want to thank Allen for launching this thread as it has been very enlightening to learn so much about the Model 28.
SLT223
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There has been one on this site. I think it surfaced two or three years ago. The owner also made a youtube video of it. He has since sold it I think. It was initially offered at $3k, didn't move and then pulled about $1800 on GB. It was in about 90% condition if I remember correctly.
28-1 video:
[ame]https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=8dW0UV-rZpc[/ame]
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Just a quick update. I bought it so now I'm an official a member of the HP owner's club!
At my first opportunity to shoot it I may also become a card-carrying member of the fan club!
At my first opportunity to shoot it I may also become a card-carrying member of the fan club!
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Thanks!
The sight blade replacement is coming along very nicely as well...
http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-smithing/500311-adjustable-sight-blade-replacement.html
Texasgordo
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Congrats bud! You won't regret it.
kmesr9
Member
Hi I have a couple questions for the pro's here:
1. What should the clearance be between the cylinder and barrel 6" 28-2?
2. I have target grips on my 28-2 but they don't work well with a speed loader. Is there a template to cut this relief or a mfg that does it or do I have to buy new grips?
Thanks in advance you guys are awesome!
1. What should the clearance be between the cylinder and barrel 6" 28-2?
2. I have target grips on my 28-2 but they don't work well with a speed loader. Is there a template to cut this relief or a mfg that does it or do I have to buy new grips?
Thanks in advance you guys are awesome!
Please post pictures of your target grips. If they're the non-relieved factory type you won't want to cut on them as they are worth quite a bit if in good condition.
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samandglove1
Member
samandglove1
Member
Targets Guy
US Veteran
I better get my 28-2 in this thread since it is the ultimate thread.
THAT is what I was looking for! Thank you sir for the link.
Gonna keep my eye out for one, but not holding out much hope for it.
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MikeLeitner
Member
Hello - brand new to forum.
I just bought a 28-2 from my LGS. The first thing that I asked was "is this refinished?' and he said "nope". It looks Parkerized instead of any kind of blue. Held next to my 1911, the finish looks identical. It also appears to be unfired outside of the factory. Chamber faces are pristine as is the forcing cone. When cleaning it, one chamber had residue and the other five were spotless. It is early, yet it has a red insert in the front sight and has Hogue monogrips on it instead of wood.
Now the good part. My researching brought me to this thread and the OP post mentioned that the earliest 28-2 he had seen was serial number S222652. So imagine my surprise when I realized that that was my gun's exact number.
I hope that Allen is still around to shed some light on this or if anyone can educate me on this conundrum.
Do I really have a near-mint 1961 model 28 or has it been refinished? Did they put red inserts in back then? And what is the ty-in with Allen? (hope it wasn't stolen from him!!!!!)
I just bought a 28-2 from my LGS. The first thing that I asked was "is this refinished?' and he said "nope". It looks Parkerized instead of any kind of blue. Held next to my 1911, the finish looks identical. It also appears to be unfired outside of the factory. Chamber faces are pristine as is the forcing cone. When cleaning it, one chamber had residue and the other five were spotless. It is early, yet it has a red insert in the front sight and has Hogue monogrips on it instead of wood.
Now the good part. My researching brought me to this thread and the OP post mentioned that the earliest 28-2 he had seen was serial number S222652. So imagine my surprise when I realized that that was my gun's exact number.
I hope that Allen is still around to shed some light on this or if anyone can educate me on this conundrum.
Do I really have a near-mint 1961 model 28 or has it been refinished? Did they put red inserts in back then? And what is the ty-in with Allen? (hope it wasn't stolen from him!!!!!)
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