Thinking about sending my 686 to the mothership

[Shoebox1.1]

So I've recently acquired a 4 inch 686 no dash. Took it to the range for the first time today and it shot good. I want to say I measured the barrel gap as best as I could at .004. After 100 rounds of lax 158 gr FMJ 38 specials the cylinder was a "tiny" bit sticky closing. Gun ran 150-160 rounds, every one went bang, they all ejected fine. Just that sticky issue closing on the carbon buildup. Could this just be ammo? Could be.. I'd think it would go through more than that before carbon issue. I'd also like to get an action job on this machine. It shoots good but not as good as my Ruger match champion that has 9lb hammer spring in it. The MC is magic compared to this gun. I think an action job would elevate this gun to true BBQ status in the safe ( that's what I want it to be anyway lol). Your thoughts?

 

[Shoebox1.1]

The target was 7 yards. All shots DA.

 

[jkmo]

Just needs a cleaning. 004 is pretty close, just build up. Bring brush to range if shooting that many rounds

 

[jeffrefrig]

I don't know if I would spend the money on an action job on a revolver relegated to safe duty. When you do get it out to show off, what holster are you planning on using? I have a Model 27-9 I bought new. They did a real nice job on the dark black/blue finish but the stocks were garbage so I got new ones and have a Barranti Leather Co. holster and belt ordered so it will at least look good! Actually it's pretty accurate in my hands from the 25 yard line with 357 magnums in it. Not quite as good with 38 spls in it.
Have fun with that 686!

 

[Shoebox1.1]

This is my weekend carry gun. I have a Kramer Thomas perfectionist IWB for it. It carry's well. It's no safe queen for sure

 

[Marcus Registradus]

You have a nice early 686 with the S&W stamp on the right side. For an action job, you might look into Glenn Custom in Phoenix, Az. His website has the full list of revolver work he does with a couple options for action jobs. He is very good and might get it back to you faster the factory. Not sure about sending an older revolver like that back to the factory for anything other than the 'M' warranty work if it hasn't already been done.

 

[Protocall_Design]

I'd check for endshake. A .002 shim might fix it, if that's the problem.

 

[Shoebox1.1]

I know of Mr glenn. He's my ticket! Thank you! What's the endshake specs? It doesn't feel like it moves for and aft much. Maybe a thou or two

 

[SweetMK]

I do not think the "Mother Ship" is the answer to the action job question,,

In todays system of legal questions,,
the gun might come back with what you would consider a
WORSE trigger.

I did two 629 triggers, it was a fun experience,,
I did have a VERY good gunsmith looking over my shoulder,,
It was an evening Vo-Tech class,,

My neighbor did his Smith 41 Magnum,, he is now 89 years old,,
his two sons CONSTANTLY bicker over who is gonna get the sweet Smith 41 Magnum,,
(I told him to do a second one,, he did not listen!! LOL)

Those two 629's are two of the best centerfire handguns I have owned,,

 

[scooter123]

I have a Dan Wesson 15-2, a revolver which allows the user to "tune" the B/C gap. I have mine set to 0.0025 inch, light drag on the shim. I've shot more than 100 rounds thru it on many occasions and never had any issues with "carbon buildup". Yeah, there might have been a tiny increase in drag when closing the cylinder but it was never enough that I ever noticed it. BTW, the 15-2 is a fun gun to shoot in single action but in double action trying to tune the mainspring any lighter than 12 lbs. just results in misfires. So you do have to get used to a heavy DA trigger.

I'll also note that I've been tuning the triggers on my Smiths for years and it's not really that difficult. Shorten the Strain Screw until the DA pull is at 9 lbs. and call it good. Yeah you can go lighter but that means you'll be limited to those ammunition's that work with that lightened trigger. Second replace the 16 lbs. rebound spring with a 14 lbs rebound spring. Doing that will take the Single Action break to 3 lbs. or a hint more and maintain a nice positive reset on the trigger. Finally use a bit of Dykem Machinists blue on the hammer and shoot a box or two of ammo with the hammer blued up. When you pull the hammer you'll find any spots where it's rubbing and address those spots with some 400 grit wet or dry. Once that's done you'll find you have an extremely smooth trigger in double action that doesn't stack and seems much lighter than what it measures at.

 

[Shoebox1.1]

Awesome scooter thanks for the info! The action is pretty smooth, pull "feels" like about 12 lbs. I'm going to check the endshake and maybe take it out couple more times and see what happens. It seemed to really like the plated wadcutters. Maybe try some more of those

 

[pantannojack]

looks like you got a better one than I. Within the last year, I got a NOS unfired 586 4". First shot it broke the stud holding the thumb button. Took a while to find a new cylinder bolt and nut. at .008 in end shake, iT never has shot spectacular at 15 yards using home cast 158 lead either gas check or with out. In magnum cases,I do best with 6g Unique of 6.5g 4756, std primers rendering about 950 fps. At that energy level, I like better 41 mag/spcl, or 44 mag/spcl, 45 ACP home made loads.

I would not trust S&W to do tune up work. I would go to Glen Custom or some of these other recommendations. I don't have the cupons so i won't do either.

 

[Shoebox1.1]

It's funny you think as a new 686 owner.. "they've made this gun forever!" 1980 to now it outta be basically the same! Why wouldn't they still make all the parts and service for the old guns? Crazy. It's like the car buisness I'm in, they don't want you driving a 2007 Toyota with 310k on the clock.. they want you in a new car EVERY 3-4 years and keep making "new" money on you.

 

[stansdds]

0.004" barrel-cylinder gap is adequate, but not all powders burn cleanly. Some powders leave a lot of fouling that can cause binding with a tight barrel-cylinder gap. I'd be inclined to leave it alone and try different ammo.

I would check end shake. If end shake is greater than 0.002", then a cylinder shim will move the cylinder back 0.002" and open the barrel-cylinder gap. A small amount of end shake is necessary for smooth functioning of the cylinder, 0.001" to 0.002" is ideal, I think S&W considers up to 0.008" as acceptable, the rest of us tend to think that is way too much.

Unless you plan on a lot of double action shooting, I would not bother with an action job. Double action revolvers often smooth themselves with double action shooting and double action dry fire. In addition to that, a good cleaning and proper lubrication of the lock work can sometimes work wonders with smoothness.

 

[Shoebox1.1]

I pretty much only shoot DA

 

[Gunaholic]

I once had a 24-3 which would start binding with ash under the star. Usually with 2400; but your trouble sounds like it could be the same.

 

[Tom Kent]

I would try some different ammunition, including some .357 before I had any work done on it. If you send it back to the mothership for an action job they will do the modification without being asked. I found that out with a combat revolver package they did on a 686 of mine.

 

[Shoebox1.1]

Tom were you happy with it when it came back?

 

[H Richard]

I have found the flake type powders usually tend to cause that kind of problem, and the ball type powders don't. You also need a load that burns the powder completely, not leaving non burned residue. Light target type loads are more likely to cause this problem.

 

[Shoebox1.1]

These I believe are LAX rounds. Not sure if reloads or new
Typically i haven't had any issues in other firearms but it certainly could be my problem.