I am thinking about this one, I have the parts, and I think I now have the skills to pull it off just not sure what it is worth as it sits. It is fully functional both in single action and double action. I know collector value is gone but even the sum of parts has value and I do love orphans and a challenge.
Thinking About This .22/.32
- Thread starter merl67
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WHO DOES THIS STUFF???? Hacking off the trigger guard? Good grief.
Look at it this way: You can't "fan" the hammer on one of theses things; but you can "fan" the trigger---if it wasn't for that pesky trigger guard.
Ralph Tremaine
Ralph Tremaine
Weimar
US Veteran
I remember this one. Certainly worth restoring, especially since it's so functional.
I figure with the problems and it's low level of original finish it might sell for $500. The labor to fix the trigger guard and hammer spur is about $200 worth of tig welding and finishing. So I think I might buy it if I could get it for $250-300.
When you say that you have the parts, do you mean a junk frame?
I figure with the problems and it's low level of original finish it might sell for $500. The labor to fix the trigger guard and hammer spur is about $200 worth of tig welding and finishing. So I think I might buy it if I could get it for $250-300.
When you say that you have the parts, do you mean a junk frame?
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Oh the humanity!
OP
Yes I have junk frame in my parts stashand a hammer that I think i could use.
Rare! How often do you see a Fitz .22/32HFT?
Bob
Bob
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I just cannot place a "Like" on this thread as it hurts my eyes . . . but buying it depends on the price. I would not think it should sell for anywhere near the $300 mark, maybe closer to $200.
SWSC4 says FAIR is worth $325, but there is not a condition grade for MUTILATED. Even if you do not buy it, let us know what is sells for. Regardless of its condition, I bet someone will pay an unreasonable price for it.
SWSC4 says FAIR is worth $325, but there is not a condition grade for MUTILATED. Even if you do not buy it, let us know what is sells for. Regardless of its condition, I bet someone will pay an unreasonable price for it.
Green Frog
Member
If I already had or knew I could find a frame (with side plate) and hammer and could get it cheap ($200 or less)I might consider it. A nice short barrel to build a kit gun could seal the deal.
Froggie
Froggie
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bulletslap
Member
Would I be a bad person if I said I would like to massage the head of the cretin that did that with a sock full of quarters ?
Forum member tennexplorer restored a revolver that had had the trigger guard cut. I believe he posted pictures. You might want to do a search through the older posts.
OP
I didn't buy it and, no one else did either, by the time I paid shipping, my FFL to do the transfer I would have almost $300 in it.
I commented about that gun in another thread. Since I own probably more of these than most, I can tell you that it was painful to look at. The problem here is that the sum of the parts may be worth more than the gun. I have purchased whole guns for $450 but the stocks and rear sight are probably worth (to some) $200 to $250 alone.
I am looking at buying a rear sight for one of mine that is broken but since the sights are numbered, I am having reservations. Do I want an all original example with a broke rear sight or do I want an unbroken example with a non matching/original rear sight.
Decisions, decisions.......
I am looking at buying a rear sight for one of mine that is broken but since the sights are numbered, I am having reservations. Do I want an all original example with a broke rear sight or do I want an unbroken example with a non matching/original rear sight.
Decisions, decisions.......
Bob, not sure what you are asking?
Are the grips number matching to the gun? They can only be correct if the gun shipped between ~ 1918 - 1920. Which I think they are because it has no logo on left side of frame. And that's the only period the Reg Police grips had the gold medallions. After 1920 to 1924 the RP grips had no medallions.
Before that and after 1923 it came with two screw target grips.
So if he parts it out, the pair of grips is worth ~$150 by itself.
Now that it didn't sell, the seller might be more negotiable to an offer.
• "No-Logo" guns from 1917 and following WW I until gradual re-use on all model, I, K, & N frames by 1920/21.
• Prior to WW I, .22/32 Heavy Frame Target models were supplied with two screw extended target stocks as standard. After WW I the Reg Police stocks with notched back strap became standard. By ~1920 all stocks including on 22/32 HFTs, changed to rounded, convex stock circle stocks w/o medallions and rounded, convex stock circle target stocks w/o medallions as optional until 1923. Above serial number ~258000 (right after WW I), the standard HFT's stocks became Regulation Police stocks on a rebated grip frame, at first with deep dish gold plated brass medallions in the late 'teens. Checkered two-screw extension target stocks with gold plated brass medallions in 'dished' stock circle tops were optional until 1920, w/o medallions after that. (see "August 29, 1923 change" below).
• Aug. 29, 1923 change order, replaced .22/32 HFT's sq butt RP convex top stocks, returning to 2 screw target stocks as standard but with convex tops, and w/o medallions. And from the original Paine bead front sight w/U-Notch to a Patridge w/square notch rear. The next day, the same was ordered for the 32 & 38 Target Models and the Single Shot Model as well, S&W 1857-1945 N&J pg. 235.
Before that and after 1923 it came with two screw target grips.
So if he parts it out, the pair of grips is worth ~$150 by itself.
Now that it didn't sell, the seller might be more negotiable to an offer.
• "No-Logo" guns from 1917 and following WW I until gradual re-use on all model, I, K, & N frames by 1920/21.
• Prior to WW I, .22/32 Heavy Frame Target models were supplied with two screw extended target stocks as standard. After WW I the Reg Police stocks with notched back strap became standard. By ~1920 all stocks including on 22/32 HFTs, changed to rounded, convex stock circle stocks w/o medallions and rounded, convex stock circle target stocks w/o medallions as optional until 1923. Above serial number ~258000 (right after WW I), the standard HFT's stocks became Regulation Police stocks on a rebated grip frame, at first with deep dish gold plated brass medallions in the late 'teens. Checkered two-screw extension target stocks with gold plated brass medallions in 'dished' stock circle tops were optional until 1920, w/o medallions after that. (see "August 29, 1923 change" below).
• Aug. 29, 1923 change order, replaced .22/32 HFT's sq butt RP convex top stocks, returning to 2 screw target stocks as standard but with convex tops, and w/o medallions. And from the original Paine bead front sight w/U-Notch to a Patridge w/square notch rear. The next day, the same was ordered for the 32 & 38 Target Models and the Single Shot Model as well, S&W 1857-1945 N&J pg. 235.
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FWIW, from my database, 270836 shipped 5-1-1919 had reg police stocks with gold medallions and no S&W logo.
I have NO entries during 1920.
The next entry is 341632 that shipped in February of 1921 with reg police stocks without medallions and a small S&W logo on the left.
I also have 390981 that shipped 1924/25??? with 2 screw extension stocks with no medallion.
This continues until 1930 when I begin to see the 2 screw extension stocks showing up with silver medallions in the low 500000 serial ranges.
I have NO entries during 1920.
The next entry is 341632 that shipped in February of 1921 with reg police stocks without medallions and a small S&W logo on the left.
I also have 390981 that shipped 1924/25??? with 2 screw extension stocks with no medallion.
This continues until 1930 when I begin to see the 2 screw extension stocks showing up with silver medallions in the low 500000 serial ranges.
OP
I have messaged him to see if he will come down, if I can have it in my hands for around $230 I might just take a chance the rear sight blade looks like it was dropped on it.
Check with "club gun fan" (Don Mundell) as he has both rear and Paine front sight blades for sale. He also has the front sight pins but will need to now the exact length as he has several sizes.
I commented about that gun in another thread. Since I own probably more of these than most, I can tell you that it was painful to look at. The problem here is that the sum of the parts may be worth more than the gun. I have purchased whole guns for $450 but the stocks and rear sight are probably worth (to some) $200 to $250 alone.
I am looking at buying a rear sight for one of mine that is broken but since the sights are numbered, I am having reservations. Do I want an all original example with a broke rear sight or do I want an unbroken example with a non matching/original rear sight.
Decisions, decisions.......
That's a common dilemma when restoring old guns. The answer sometimes, if possible, is to use the new part (rear sight in this case) to fix the original with matching serial # to the gun.
Easier said then done, but sometimes there's potential to do it. Tig welding can come in handy for this. I hope so.
Another source for original rear sight blade:
Linde post #25: http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-ha...-identify-pistol-new-forum.html#post136689970
Linde post #25: http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-ha...-identify-pistol-new-forum.html#post136689970
Jim, perhaps I did not elaborate in my comment enough to be clear. One of the common problems that I have seen during my study of these I frame .22/32 HFT's is that (I think) during efforts to elevate the rear sight, folks crank down on the rear screw without loosening the front screw. What happens is that the base of the sight cracks and you end up with two pieces. It is not a broken sight blade that I am having the dilemma with. I believe that Dumpster Don has replacement blades in his stash of NOS S&W parts.
My issue is that the base is broken in two and the base has a serial number. Now the only way someone will know in the future is by removing the sight and looking to see if the number matches.
Unfortunately, someone like myself with advanced stage 5 OCD, I'm not sure that I can live with that because I would know.
Green Frog
Member
Looks like if anybody actually tries to do something with this orphan (other than cannibalize it for parts) they will either end up with a Franken-Gun version of the original or a highly customized version that makes no attempt at originality. I think I would go with the latter. 
How about adding a new thumb pad to that abbreviated hammer spur to make a "cockeyed" style for single action work?
I'm still looking at that missing trigger guard and wondering whether I could get anything done about it. If I didn't have another donor frame to substitute in there, it would be a deal breaker for me. If you had to pay for that repair to the original frame (rather than being able to do it yourself) the resultant cost would make the project's cost to finished value ratio go waaaay out of whack!
I guessing that in the end I'm going to have to look at it like the cannibal and see how much "meat is on the bones." That is, how many good parts I could salvage to use on another gun. IMHO, it's not a sufficiently rare item to take extraordinary measures to save that specific gun. YMMV, of course.
Froggie
How about adding a new thumb pad to that abbreviated hammer spur to make a "cockeyed" style for single action work?
I'm still looking at that missing trigger guard and wondering whether I could get anything done about it. If I didn't have another donor frame to substitute in there, it would be a deal breaker for me. If you had to pay for that repair to the original frame (rather than being able to do it yourself) the resultant cost would make the project's cost to finished value ratio go waaaay out of whack!
I guessing that in the end I'm going to have to look at it like the cannibal and see how much "meat is on the bones." That is, how many good parts I could salvage to use on another gun. IMHO, it's not a sufficiently rare item to take extraordinary measures to save that specific gun. YMMV, of course.
Froggie
OP
Froggie you are spot on. I have a donor frame and a hammer that should work. The thing is I can get one of these for not a whole lot more than initial investment plus my time there will be several hours involved to make it look right.
Jim, perhaps I did not elaborate in my comment enough to be clear. One of the common problems that I have seen during my study of these I frame .22/32 HFT's is that (I think) during efforts to elevate the rear sight, folks crank down on the rear screw without loosening the front screw. What happens is that the base of the sight cracks and you end up with two pieces. It is not a broken sight blade that I am having the dilemma with. I believe that Dumpster Don has replacement blades in his stash of NOS S&W parts.
My issue is that the base is broken in two and the base has a serial number. Now the only way someone will know in the future is by removing the sight and looking to see if the number matches.
Unfortunately, someone like myself with advanced stage 5 OCD, I'm not sure that I can live with that because I would know.
Yes, I understood. In the case you describe a spare part wouldn't be needed. Just tig weld the two pieces back together, cleanup/finish and polish. Then reblue. Hopefully the break is not thru the serial #!
Looks like if anybody actually tries to do something with this orphan (other than cannibalize it for parts) they will either end up with a Franken-Gun version of the original or a highly customized version that makes no attempt at originality. I think I would go with the latter.
How about adding a new thumb pad to that abbreviated hammer spur to make a "cockeyed" style for single action work?
I'm still looking at that missing trigger guard and wondering whether I could get anything done about it. If I didn't have another donor frame to substitute in there, it would be a deal breaker for me. If you had to pay for that repair to the original frame (rather than being able to do it yourself) the resultant cost would make the project's cost to finished value ratio go waaaay out of whack!
I guessing that in the end I'm going to have to look at it like the cannibal and see how much "meat is on the bones." That is, how many good parts I could salvage to use on another gun. IMHO, it's not a sufficiently rare item to take extraordinary measures to save that specific gun. YMMV, of course.
Froggie
Froggie,
Changing the frame is not the way I'd go; then it would be a franken gun. The spare frame would just supply a trigger guard that would be cut off and tig welded to the original frame.
Even if the welding were farmed out, it would be minimal expense. And anyone with reasonable skill could complete the cleanup/finishing and polish. Same with the hammer spur.
Then the gun would retain originality with all matching numbers.
OP
Looking like I may have a project on my hands...
OP
Made a deal, I will have it in my hands for $235.00 which is close enough that if I absolutely have to sell it for parts I could, and not be out much. Not the plan obviously going to see if I can turn a sows ear into a silk purse.
