Thinking of One of These 64-2's - Questions

[alienbogey]

I'm a S&W newbie so I hope these questions aren't too basic....

I've been developing an itch to get a snub and I've never owned a Smith and I came across these former California Dept of Corrections 64-2's:

Smith & Wesson .38 Special model 64-2 Stainless Snub 2 inch Pinned Barrel Round Butt California Dept of Corrections Nixon Vietnam Era 1973 Smith & Wesson Revolvers > Pocket Pistols for sale, gun classifieds or gun auction from Robertson Trading Post.

I'm thinking of getting one to scratch the itch and I'm also thinking of using it for a project gun. I'm thinking of taking a buffing wheel to the SS to make it shine, and then maybe some fluff & buff of the internals, perhaps grips, etc. Questions:

1. Is a 64-2 suitable for that type of work, meaning they lend themselves to trigger smoothing and such? Parts and grips generally available, etc?

2. I assume that as these are stamped CDC I wouldn't be wrecking any future collectible or rarity? Are 64-2's common so my grandkids won't curse the day I took polishing compound to it?

3. Does the price ($389-$399) look fair? I'd rather pay $249, of course, but those are getting hard to come by and a fair amount of my attraction to this is the SS so I can polish it up.

4. If I use it as a carry piece is the Model 64 good to go with +P?

5. Any other thoughts or suggestions?

Thanks.

 

[BobR1]

I would want a look at a picture of the sides. Some are marked with an engraver and look a little rough.

They are a good basic K frame round butt.
It should be rated +P
All round butt K frame grips should work.
The Wolf or Wilson spring kits will work on it.
It should make a pretty fair carry gun. K frames are a hair on the large size for ccw, but should work fine carried in a holster on the belt. A bit heavy for a coat pocket.
The price is reasonable if it is clean.
I would not consider it a collectors piece myself.
It should be easier to shoot accurately than a J frame 2".

Bob

 

[KEN L]

Yes! to all your questions. That's what I would do if I had found it. It'll make a great project and reward you well once it is done. I can't wait to see final pics!

 

[alienbogey]

Okay, I'm real close to succumbing to the urge to get one of these for a project, and have some follow up anal-retentive questions. Keep in mind that I'm a Smith newbie; I've never owned one before.

The choices come down to picking one from the earlier, 1973 production pile or the later, circa 1988 group. Here are the differences:

• 1973's are listed with a .265 serrated 'service' trigger and the 1988's as a .312 smooth 'combat' trigger. I'd prefer wider & serrated but it's an either/or choice.

• 1973's have a pinned barrel and the 1988's do not. I have no idea which is better or more desirable.

• On another forum a poster states that the 1988 '-4' has a "New Yoke Retention". I don't know what that is, which is preferable and, besides, the listing for the circa 1988 group states that they are 64-2's.

• On another forum folks have stated that early Smith stainless revolvers were known for metallurgy problems, but they got fixed over the years. I have no idea if that's just an internet rumor but, if not, would a 1973 production 64-2 be past those alleged problems?

Thoughts?

 

[BobR1]

I bought a 64-3 as a project gun. Mine is the 4" version with a Square Butt. Mine is pinned, so it should be around a 1980 I believe.
Mine has good cylinder lock up on all 6 holes. I did a little polishing on it, and installed a Wolf spring kit. I painted the upper half of the front sight with "Green" Bright Sight Paint just to see what it looked like. It looked very good. The Green is easy to pick up shooting our Defensive Pistol Match.
I have it in the shop getting a .330 X 65 deg dovetail cut for a Novak .170 high 1911 Fiber Optic front sight at the moment.
I will probably chamfer the chambers to finish it up.
So far the project has went well. I will still be under $400 with the Wolf spring kit, Dawson Fiber Optic front sight and new Hogue grips.
I hope to have it back for the 7 May Defensive Pistol Match.

As far as the dash numbers goes. I would probably go with the older gun if the condition of both guns were equal. Other wise go with the one in the best mechanical condition.

Bob

 

[alienbogey]

Thanks for the reply.

I went ahead and bought one, and I'm soliciting what-to-do and how-to suggestions on this thread:

http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-smithing/189892-school-me-my-project-64-please.html