Third Model DA in .32

[CaptainMorgan]

I picked up what I think is, and have been told is, a Third Model double action in .32 S&W.

I have a couple of questions as this is my first S&W revolver.
Is it a Third model?
Any rough guess on worth?
Would refinishing it hurt the value?
It only works as a double action right now. If I pull the hammer back it may catch slightly on the sear but any little movement causes it to fall.
Also, when the hammer is down it tends to rest back too far letting the cylinder spin freely.

When I took the side plate off the cause of the last problem is obvious; the part that the spring hooks onto and forces the hammer forward is broken. What is this piece called and can I get a new one?

As for not staying cocked I think where the hammer engages the sear(?) is worn on the sear(?). Again can I get a replacement?

Thanks for any help!

 

[opoefc]

Welcome to the Forum. Yes, it's a 3rd model .32 Double Action. It's current value is about $75 to $100 maximum for parts. The cost of the broken parts, a labor to repair, you need will nearly exceed the value of the repaired gun. A refinish will cost 2 or 3 times the gun's value, and refinishing would come after you have spent the money to find the parts needed and repaired the gun, so you would be throwing good money after the bad, so to speak. Having said all that, you can still have fun looking at gun shows and pawn shops for another similar model with problems, and maybe come up with a complete gun between them. A very good cleaning, after complete disassembly will probably help the light trigger and worn sear a little. Good luck, Ed.

 

[mmaher94087]

The broken part is called the stirrup. Often a modern stirrup can be modified slightly to work. Check with a gunsmith as he may have one that's close enough to use. The sear problem probably will require welding, recutting and heat treating. Mike #283

 

[CaptainMorgan]

Thanks for the replies guys.

I'll look around for an original or a replacement stirrup that could work. Any ideas on models that may be interchangeable (even with some filing)?

I'd try and make one but I'd need dimensions, which I can't seem to find.

If a good cleaning up doesn't help the hammer/sear engagement I'll try and repair it. I can do the cutting and heat treating (have a small forge I use to heat up metal to bang on) but I can't really weld very well. I'll either try and find someone around here who can or practice some more.

 

[DWalt]

You may or may not have to weld and heat treat the hammer sear engagement surface. Assuming it will not get much use, there is not much point in heat treating. Also, you may be able to deepen the sear engagement with a file, stone, Dremel tool, etc., enough to work OK. The stirrup replacement is probably a more important consideration.

 

[mmaher94087]

I understand that the S&W "K" frame stirrup might be used as a replacement part. To me this is a rumor, as I've never tried it nor am I aware of anyone who has; but I have heard it repeated from various sources. Mike #283

 

[Wiregrassguy]

David Chicoine's site lists the stirrup as available. But, I don't know how frequently he updates it. You might give him a call. Also, JackFirstgun.com might also have them.

 

[CaptainMorgan]

So, I got a stirrup but the pin that held the old one to the hammer is stuck fast. Any specific direction I should be trying to punch it out from?

I've already tried soaking oil (Ed's Red) for a couple of days. No rusting is evident.

 

[mmaher94087]

Either side is fine as the pin is not tapered. The pin is held by friction in the hammer and the stirrup moves on the pin. I use a "starter" punch which is a short (1/2") punch made to start pins moving. I support the hammer on a 10 lb shot bag (#8s) and try to just move the pin far enough for removal of the stirrup but not far enough to drive the pin completely from the hammer. The pin is a bugger to replace if driftrd free of the hammer. An afterthought: drill a 1/4" hole in a board and place the hammer over the hole so that the board supports the hammer but the pin will go into the clearance hole. Mike #283

 

[Dosgatos]

Mike's advice is excellent. In addition: I use a hair drier to heat the part. You'll be surprised how hot a drier will make it.

 

[stu1ritter]

I don't know if this will help but Ed's Red is not a penetrating oil/solvent mix. Much to much solvent. The mix should be 50/50 acetone/ATF.
Stu

 

[mmaher94087]

stu1ritter is right on! Mike #283

 

[CaptainMorgan]

Thanks guys. I'll try some actual penetrating oil and maybe a hair dryer.