Third model S&W 38 top break

[Seamore2001]

I just picked up a 3rd model S&W top break in 38. Factory renickeled, I believe (it has star on butt next to serial number) and has close to 100% remaining nickel except at base of butt where it's worn. The grip panels are in pretty good shape except that right panel shows more wear and has a small chip in the base.

A question - assuming its mechanically sound (I believe it is) - can this gun fire modern factory S&W 38 loads, or is this a candidate for reloading? If reloads, are there any recommended recipes? BTW, I typically reload with Bullseye or Win 231 for my handguns.

Thanks.

 

[DCWilson]

I have a couple of .38 safety hammerless models that are a little younger than that one would be, and I just shoot standard modern production .38 S&W ammo in them. I imagine soft reloads would be preferable, but I can't help you with that. There are threads on the forum that deal with handloading the .38 S&W; a search should turn them up.

The star was probably for a repair return rather than a refinish. I agree that the gun is refinished, but I doubt it was a factory job. The trigger guards on these guns were blued even when the frame finish was nickel. Also, S&W never nickeled hammers and triggers on guns that came back for refinishing.

The top break .38s can be enjoyable little range guns, or backyard guns if you live in the wide open spaces. There's lots of good shooting left in that one.

 

[Seamore2001]

David,

Thanks for the reply. I'm more of a Colt guy than an S&W one, but even I should have realized the all-over nickel wasn't factory. Even so, I bought it for a reasonable price and I wanted it for a backyard plinker, so I'm happy with what I've got.

I'll probably pick up some dies from Midway next time I put in an order and see what loads the books recommend. And I'll do a search on the forums of course, too.

Thanks again

 

[glowe]

Without the serial number, you may have a S&W that was manufactured either before or after smokeless powder. Post 1898 guns should have serial numbers above 370000.

If yours is before that date, I would use Black Powder and 145 grain bullets. If after, you can use 231 powder. According to Hodgdon's reloading data, the load you want is 145 gr Lead; Winchester 231; .358" bullets, OAL 1.18"; 2.6 grains of powder; 675fps; 11,500 CUP Pressure. I would load a little light and check velocity. Lighter is better on these old guns. I typically use 125 grain bullet and 2.2 grains of 700X. Problem is that there is too much space left in the brass, so I also use Puflon filler to get consistent ignition. Without the filler, I get mis-fires and lead stuck in the barrel. Check your 231 - it may fill more of the case.

Buy 38 S&W dies, and brass specifically designed for this caliber. Easy shooting pistols and can be suprisingly accurate.

 

[Seamore2001]

Thanks glowe - I forgot to add the serial number - it's 140xxx. I thought it was post 1895 guns should have a serial above 322,700. If you can narrow down the year this gun was made, I'd appreciate it. Given its vintage, I suppose I'll need to pick up some BP. Kind of a pity, as I'd hoped to simply use the same rounds as for my Victory. But, new adventures in reloading!

Edit - reread glowe's serial # dates - my mistake - there's no contradiction between what he wrote and what I had read elsewhere.

 

[Bearcat]

If only those old revolvers could talk......

 

[glowe]

sn in the 185000 range was shipped in 1887. 80000 range was shipped in 1883. Smokeless powder guns are considered post-1898, but I am not sure what changes, if any, were made to the .38 DAs around that date.

 

[glowe]

To add some information on BP loads. Simple process that requires filling the case to 1/16" to 1/8" above where the bullet seats. You then lightly compress the powder when seating the bullet to eliminate any air in the case.

I have used lots of BP, but now prefer Triple7, since it is non-corrosive and easier to clean up. Use soap and water for the bore and to wipe down the revolver. You can then oil the surface, but do not use petroleum oil in the bore. Use Bore Butter or vegetable oil (crisco, etc.) to protect the bore until next time out.