I have a friend that has a problem I have never encountered before. He has a 1950 Target in 44 Special. The problem he has is, 5 of the 6 cylinders are so tight that only factory round nose with chamber. He brought it to me to check my ammo for trial. All but the round nose factory stuff and Winchester Silver tips chambered. No Keith style SWC's, Speer God Dot, Federal 180 and 225 grain, Grizzly, or Corbon would chamber. However one chamber with chamber about anything. He does not have a closet queen and is not adverse to having it worked on but he is retired and living frugally. Has anyone heard of excessively undersized chambers? Any is there a cost effective cure?
Tight chamber help
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cgt4570
Member
Sounds like he'll have to invest in a chamber reamer, use lots of oil, and give it a few very gentle turns in the tight chambers.
It's easy DIY.
After a minor cutting like this, I use 0000 steel wool to burnish and remove tool marks.
Reamers can be rented from 4drentals.com, or it might actually be cheaper to buy it, use it, then resell on eBay for very little loss.
Brownell's shows .44 Mag cylinder reamers in stock, which will work perfectly for this application. He doesn't need to lengthen the chamber (maybe a few thou clearance?) so this would work.
This problem is more common in S&W .22s but it happened in larger calibers, too.
The factory reamer must have been worn down to just undersized.
If he absolutely strikes out, I probably have a reamer I'd loan.
It's easy DIY.
After a minor cutting like this, I use 0000 steel wool to burnish and remove tool marks.
Reamers can be rented from 4drentals.com, or it might actually be cheaper to buy it, use it, then resell on eBay for very little loss.
Brownell's shows .44 Mag cylinder reamers in stock, which will work perfectly for this application. He doesn't need to lengthen the chamber (maybe a few thou clearance?) so this would work.
This problem is more common in S&W .22s but it happened in larger calibers, too.
The factory reamer must have been worn down to just undersized.
If he absolutely strikes out, I probably have a reamer I'd loan.
Enigma
US Veteran
Not having seen the gun, I think it more likely that he may need to have the chamber throats reamed or honed to a larger diameter. This is not uncommon - bullets on the longer side experience interference where they contact the chamber throat. Enlarging the actual chamber body diameter won't help; enlarging the exit holes will.
I agree with both posters but would not forge ahead w/o some hard evidence collection first!
Take to a local gunsmith or machinist and get those chambers and throats miced. I don't think either would charge you or that. Then you'll have some stats to compare the one 'good' chamber to the other 5 chambers. Maybe the 5 chambers missed the finishing reamer step that Monday or friday at the factory.
Take to a local gunsmith or machinist and get those chambers and throats miced. I don't think either would charge you or that. Then you'll have some stats to compare the one 'good' chamber to the other 5 chambers. Maybe the 5 chambers missed the finishing reamer step that Monday or friday at the factory.
I HAVE A SUGGESTION. GO TO BROWNELLS ON THE NET. ORDER A PACK 0F .44 CALIBER CHAMBER BRUSHES. SOUNDS LIKE IT COULD BE BUILD UP IN THE CHARGING HOLES IN THE CYLINDER. THESE CHAMBER BRUSHES ARE DESIGNED FOR THIS TYPE OF CLEANING. A BORE BRUSH MANY TIMES ARE INADEQUATE. JP
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#1) Check for lead deposits inside chambers. If there is Lead in them, get yourself (or borrow) a Lewis Lead Remover since that is the best method to clean them without damaging them.
#2) If they are clean, before buying Reamers I'd check with S&W and see if the Revolver is under warranty.
#3) If they will not warranty the repair work, then yes - go to Brownell's and get the proper Reamer. Before using the Reamer (if that is what you need to do) watch some video's, read instructions a few times, do not be stingy with the lubricating oil and use the proper kind and last but not least clean out chips and debris often.
#2) If they are clean, before buying Reamers I'd check with S&W and see if the Revolver is under warranty.
#3) If they will not warranty the repair work, then yes - go to Brownell's and get the proper Reamer. Before using the Reamer (if that is what you need to do) watch some video's, read instructions a few times, do not be stingy with the lubricating oil and use the proper kind and last but not least clean out chips and debris often.
Let someone who knows what're they doing handle it. No sense investing in reamers, pin gauges, etc. for a one time use. That's why gunsmiths invest in tools. Should be able to get chambers/throats checked and/or reamed at a "frugal" rate.
elpac3
Member
I was going to have my k22 and pre18 chamber reamed due to difficult extraction. Local gunsmith was $200 per gun and 4 month back log.
As previously noted, be sure chamber fouling is not the issue. If you decide to ream, read the thread here on how to ream, watch the videos, use lots of lube and clean the reamer every three or four turns. Pretty simple once you get past the fear factor
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Actually this is the best advise! It's more than likely going to be a 1 shot deal and quality Reamers are not cheap! Let a Pro do it and be done with it.
ggibson511960
Member
Look at the charge holes from the front at an angle with a really strong light. I find my charge holes leaded all the time this way when they look fine from the rear. Even the mildest of loads leave behind a lead mist that falls out somewhere, and it plates very thin on chamber and barrel walls. It can be tough to get out, but hand tools will do it. Chuck up a brass/bronze brush brush in a drill and spin. You can't hurt the charge hole bore with brass/bronze brushes.
flintsghost
Member
I had a S&W 650 that had short throats in the 22 magnum cylinder. They caused excessive pressures when fired. The throats had to be reamed slightly to cure the problem. At that time the revolver was brand new and unfired. The 22 RF cylinder that came with the gun was fine. This kind of factory mistake is not terribly uncommon.
Push some bullets..
Push different plain bullets through the chambers and see where the hang up is. Sounds like the chamber throats might be too tight.
Push different plain bullets through the chambers and see where the hang up is. Sounds like the chamber throats might be too tight.
"5 of the 6 cylinders are so tight that only factory round nose with chamber"
If those 5 questionable chambers accept factory round nose then the problem definitely lies in the throats and not the chamber mouth.
As Hondo44 recommended, start at the simple and cheap way, mic or pin gauge those 5 known tight throats against the 6th good one.
The throat diameter would seem to be the prime suspect if the problem is specific to bullet configuration or length.
If those 5 questionable chambers accept factory round nose then the problem definitely lies in the throats and not the chamber mouth.
As Hondo44 recommended, start at the simple and cheap way, mic or pin gauge those 5 known tight throats against the 6th good one.
The throat diameter would seem to be the prime suspect if the problem is specific to bullet configuration or length.
Oracle
US Veteran
A friend bought a used Ruger Blackhawk doing the same thing. He bought a pack of chamber brushes and a container of J-B bore cleaning compound, less than $20, the problem was resolved.
There are no "charge holes" involved in this issue since the cyl has chamber throats; only chambers have chamber throats.
Charge holes are bored the same diameter straight thru from back to front of the cyl, therefore no chamber throats. The only modern gun cyls with charge holes are .22s, not including .22 magnums.
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