Not having the proper tool what would be the next best method to use to tighten an extractor rod that would prevent marring the rod? 
Jim
Jim
Tightening an extractor rod.
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SW CQB 45
Member
empty 38 special cases (at least 3)
small piece of thick leather to be bent over the ejector rod
standard pair of pliers
worked for me for years then finally broke down and bought the tool.
I never crushed an ejector rod, but its possible.
I prefer to grab the ejector rod near the bottom to get closer to the threads.
just slightly bump tight and then check to see if you can loosen by hand.
if it comes loose during shooting, go a little tighter next time.
small piece of thick leather to be bent over the ejector rod
standard pair of pliers
worked for me for years then finally broke down and bought the tool.
I never crushed an ejector rod, but its possible.
I prefer to grab the ejector rod near the bottom to get closer to the threads.
just slightly bump tight and then check to see if you can loosen by hand.
if it comes loose during shooting, go a little tighter next time.
500 Magnum Nut
Member
Strip of leather in a vise.
1/2 in drill chuck or lathe chuck
1/2 in drill chuck or lathe chuck
OP
Thank you for your replies, your suggestions worked well. Was having trouble opening the cylinder and noticed the extractor rod was lose. Now that the rod is tight I am still having difficulties opening the cylinder.
Any suggestions on where to look next?
Jim
Any suggestions on where to look next?
Jim
Tightning An Extractor Rod
Slightly bent extractor rod?
Slightly bent extractor rod?
Grime or debris under the ejector star can be a problem. Also, grime on the center pin inside the ejector rod can make the pin drag or bind up. In the worst cases, the front tip of the center pin can get mushroomed a little bit and drag inside the ejector rod. If you can stone off the flange, the pin will slide smoothly again. I have done this to a couple of guns.
OP
Thanks for the heads up on areas to look at that may need attention. Tomorrow night I will take the cylinder off do a complete dismantle for a good cleaning and inspection.
If needed I have a new extractor rod and center pin.
Thanks again.
Jim
If needed I have a new extractor rod and center pin.
Thanks again.
Jim
500 Magnum Nut
Member
If it still hangs up once tight and clean, use a flat file and stroke the end of the rod 2-3 strokes. This should remove any burrs and also shorten it slightly.
Remember to put fired cases inside the bores of the cylinder before tightening it up, or you risk breaking the pins or twisting the extractor spline.
Remember to put fired cases inside the bores of the cylinder before tightening it up, or you risk breaking the pins or twisting the extractor spline.
Last edited:
SW CQB 45
Member
sometimes the depressor in the frame is too short causing the center pin to dish out the frame at the 3 o'clock position in the following pic.
sometime if you take off the thumb piece, the bolt (or whatever you call it) will move fwd and removal of meat off the thumb piece is the fix.
as you can see on my piece, the depressor of the bolt is too short. this is my competition M65.
sometime if you take off the thumb piece, the bolt (or whatever you call it) will move fwd and removal of meat off the thumb piece is the fix.
as you can see on my piece, the depressor of the bolt is too short. this is my competition M65.
OP
Successful operation, thanks for all the good information on areas to look at.
It turned out to be a combination of things that needed to be addressed. After dismantling and detail cleaning the problem was still there. I stoned and re-profiled the center pin head, it had some irregularities on it. I also de-burred the cylinder bolt hole in the frame it had some metal rolled over in the hole at the 3 o'clock position. The opposite end of the center pin was not flush with the end of the extractor when the thumb piece was pressed to open the cylinder causing the extractor rod to also hang up there. I stoned the end of the extractor rod to address that problem. I also installed a .002" shim on the yoke shaft to frame to move the cylinder forward. While I was inspecting I noticed the front lock would not lock up at every chamber, the extractor rod was bent so I straightened that also.
The cylinder now opens very smoothly and both ends lock up no matter the position of the cylinder.
Thanks again
Jim
It turned out to be a combination of things that needed to be addressed. After dismantling and detail cleaning the problem was still there. I stoned and re-profiled the center pin head, it had some irregularities on it. I also de-burred the cylinder bolt hole in the frame it had some metal rolled over in the hole at the 3 o'clock position. The opposite end of the center pin was not flush with the end of the extractor when the thumb piece was pressed to open the cylinder causing the extractor rod to also hang up there. I stoned the end of the extractor rod to address that problem. I also installed a .002" shim on the yoke shaft to frame to move the cylinder forward. While I was inspecting I noticed the front lock would not lock up at every chamber, the extractor rod was bent so I straightened that also.
The cylinder now opens very smoothly and both ends lock up no matter the position of the cylinder.
Thanks again
Jim
