To Re-Load or Not???

Hi guys,
I am back down south to the wonderfully heat and rain lol. So far I have decapped the brass and tomorrow I am going to go to step 2 and tumble it clean again. what do you think of my setup so far?

It looks nice and roomy, but I still want to move into Bill's garage. He says there's no room, but I spy a little nook between the washing machine and the shoe shelf.
 
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I may start loading 9mm Soon

any good Suggestions on Powders Guys


:D

I'm newer to reloading, so I've been trying out different powders. I've used W231, Bullseye, Unique, and TiteGroup in 9mm.

I get good results with W231 and Unique. Of the two, Unique is preferred because I can use for all the different calibers for which I reload.

Except .357 Mag...I don't want to tick off the reloading gods again...I use 2400 for .357 Mag...
 
Thanks guys

Ill check on what Cabela's has in stock.... and start Pricing my equipment....

Think by the time it starts cooling down Ill be ready to make the Jump to 9mm Loading

Just need it too COOL OFF!!!!!!

:D
 
I understand the "cool off" we have been out shooting the last 2 afternoons. 101 and 102 degrees respectively, hot Kansas sun beating down on you. I thought we would shoot a lot more than we did, I expected to have more brass to reload than I do but thats ok.
I have some brass to sell or trade and am trying to figure out where would be the best place plus some Nato 7.62 x51 loaded ammo if anyone has any ideas please let me know, S&W doesnt make a lot of rifles in 270, 8x57 and 7.62x51.
 
Working up some prarie dog slayers for the .260rem.
Shot these today, 95gr V-max over 38gr Varget.
100yds 3 shots.

photo-5.jpg
 
I finished prepping and priming 600 cases today and set the dies for seating and crimping and heres what i have.

55 grain FMJ BT, case trimmed to 1.750 CCI primer 41 used with 25 grains of CFE223 and a total length of 2.229.

Is this ok?

I did check the digital to the lee manual scale and the digital is on the money.
 
I finished prepping and priming 600 cases today and set the dies for seating and crimping and heres what i have.

55 grain FMJ BT, case trimmed to 1.750 CCI primer 41 used with 25 grains of CFE223 and a total length of 2.229.

Is this ok?

I did check the digital to the lee manual scale and the digital is on the money.

Looks like you're GTG for a trip to the range. :D
 
I believe I would get very bored very quickly if all I did was go to the range and shoot factory loads. I reload because to me it is a hobby in itself and I enjoy it very much. It is much more fun and rewarding to load different loads and go to the range and see how they perform. You get to find the most accurate load and bullet combination for your particular gun, may it be hand gun or rifle.
 
I havent measured the chamber but the case is to spec and I have the Cannelure a little bit into the case but not by much for the crimp. the Winchester bullets may be a tad short I didnt measure them.
 
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I havent measured the chamber but the case is to spec and I have the Cannelure a little bit into the case but not by much for the crimp. the Winchester bullets may be a tad short I didnt measure them.

Same here. My OAL is 2.220" with a Hornady 55gr FMJ-BT seated to the middle of the cannelure.


-Bill
 
I had a original 55 grain LC new brass case that was damaged and not safe so I saved the bullet. here are the specs.
total length------------ 0.735
length from tip to cannelure -- 0.490
width------------------ 0.222

winchester bullet spec.
total length----------- 0.749
length from tip to cannelure-- 0.481
width------------------ 0.221
 
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My Lyman book says the OAL on a 55gr fmjbt is 2.260, My Hornady book says 2.200, My Hodgdon says 2.200 and my Lee says anywhere from 2.162 to 2.260 depending upon the powder. I find this variation in OAL to be a bit disconcerting.
My Hornady V-Max 55gr OAL is 2.211 My Dogtown 55 gr Hp are 2.230 and my Armscor 55gr fmj are 2.234. I tend to use the cannalure as a guide. dont know what is right or wrong but I need to buy a chamber length gauge if I get anymore serious about accuracy. the Books are all over the place!!
 
hornaday, vol 1, 2000, for 5.56x45mm uses 2.250 as oal.
hornaday, vol 1, 2000, for .223 Remington uses 2.260 as oal.

complete reloading manual for 223(ar-15) says oal is 2.260.

extra bullet jump may not be good for accuracy, only experimenting will tell for your unique chamber/powder load/bullet weight-length.

presently, i'm comfortable with ~.005 jump for 55-69grs using 25gr CFE or Varget. with the sport, so far, my best 5 shot group is .668moa(60 gr A-max, 24.0 Varget, 2.255 oal) - continuing to experiment.
 
I went out to the garage and loaded a few rounds at 2.250" OAL. I have to seat the bullet just below the cannelure. Unfortunately I don't know when my next range trip will be so I just hope I remember to test these rounds when I do get to shoot again. haha


-Bill
 
Phil my Hornady Book 8th Edition 2010 doesnt list 5.56x45, it lists .223 rem. and .223 rem (service rifle)
.223 rem. 2.260
.223 rem. service rifle 2.250
What do you do when the cannalure wont let you seat out that far or do you not even worry about the cannalure?

Bill so you werent in the cannalure ring? Did you do a crimp or just the roll crimp done by the bullet seating die?

I think I am getting more confused. I had assumed that the cannalure was there for the brass to crimp into. This means I have to study some more. Guess I could take my reloading manuals with me while I am out deer hunting. I saw quite a few deer today and yesterday but where we take them to get processed wasnt open so I was very hesitant on pulling the trigger.
 
Grover, if I seat the bullet to the middle of the cannelure I get an OAL of 2.220". This is the length of the1100 rounds I already have loaded.

I only loaded 30 round this afternoon. Twenty are right at 2.25". The other ten are 2.246 - 2.248".


-Bill
 
Phil my Hornady Book 8th Edition 2010 doesnt list 5.56x45, it lists .223 rem. and .223 rem (service rifle)
.223 rem. 2.260
.223 rem. service rifle 2.250
What do you do when the cannalure wont let you seat out that far or do you not even worry about the cannalure?

Bill so you werent in the cannalure ring? Did you do a crimp or just the roll crimp done by the bullet seating die?

I think I am getting more confused. I had assumed that the cannalure was there for the brass to crimp into. This means I have to study some more. Guess I could take my reloading manuals with me while I am out deer hunting. I saw quite a few deer today and yesterday but where we take them to get processed wasnt open so I was very hesitant on pulling the trigger.

oneyeopn:
i've not loaded many bullets with a cannalure(both pistol and rifle).
i've depended upon the full length resizing stricture to hold the bullet correctly. if auto, then i'd look into crimp.
when i have made a mistake and use inertia puller to dislodge a bullet, it takes more than several hard bangs on an oak stump.
 
So the longer ones are below the cannalure ring. I was reading in my Modern Reloading by Richard Lee and he says that the Lee FCD makes its own cannalure in Jacketed and Lead bullets. I was just thinking that maybe trying to find bullets that have a cannalure on them was sacrificing accuracy for the ease of not using the FCD. It makes you go hmmmm! That Lee book has a lot of great information in it, this subject is the basis for Speer not recommending using Lee dies with their bullets. It all has to do with bullet pull, the amount of force required to pull a bullet from the brass. If there is not enough bullet pull the powder doesnt build all the pressure that it can and if there is too much it makes too much pressure both affecting accuracy. I am still studying it and there seems to be so much more to learn, I feel like I have just barely scratched the surface.
 
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