Trade a 66 for a 686?

[jeffrey]

In my hands, I find that the model 66 points better. I find that I shoot one of my two model 66s every week and have the 686 for home defense. This is entirely subjective, but for my money, the model 66 is a more elegant gun and, for me, that makes it more fun to shoot.

 

[andyo5]

I have owned a 6" M686 for the past 14 years. It is a fine revolver. Its full under lug and weight make it much easier to shoot with full power loads than something like a 66. The 4" 686 would be easier to shoot than the 66 for the same reason.
The models 27 and 627 are available in 4". They have half underlugs but are N frames so their weight would also be around 44 ounces. But the full underlug out at the end of the barrel really helps control muzzle flip. Don't be concerned about getting a M686 so long as you find a good example.

 

[Frizzman]

It depends on what it's for if you are concerned with utility. As was the original idea, the K frame magnum is a .38 that can handle a limited amount of magnums. The 686 is a heavy duty revolver that is lighter than a N frame such as the M27/28 and it can take lots of .357 without a problem. If you are going to carry it all day, I would stick with the M66. If it's mainly going to be a range gun or house gun, then the weight doesn't really matter and the heavier gun would be easier to handle with magnum ammo.

The origina reason for the K frame magnum was to lighten the load on a cop's belt and it is a good compromise between power and portablilty for that purpose. I have all three sized S&W .357's, and one in J frame too(640-1), and find that since I do most of my range work with my .38 reloads, the K frame is fine and the others about the same. For carry, I pick the M19/66 most often though. In my case, I have wound up regretting that I traded/sold the guns I have.

 

[armybass]

Originally posted by kbm6893:
Can't keep both. Wife would kill me and I don't blame her. There are better things I could be spending $500 on right now than another revolver. if I'm gonna get the 686, the 66 has to go.

What!? I don't get that logic at all.

 

[cowboy117]

Keep the 66.It's a classic.

 

[18DAI]

Keep the 66, you will be glad you did. Regards 18DAI.

 

[flop-shank]

I'm an L frame guy, but I'll tell you, "better a bird in the hand than two in the bush". Keep the gun with nothing wrong with it. Dream and buy an L frame later. If the 686 doesn't pan out, your model 66 won't be "the one that got away", and you simply sell the 686 and keep the K frame gun.

 

[pascalp]

If I'm not wrong 357mag was introduced due to car shield. A good 38 or a mild 357 is enough for lighter armored target, more if it's for home defense.
Personnaly I also favor 66 balance, a late discover, they replaced a previously owned 686 6".

66-3 2.5"
66 nodash 4"
(625)

Both are good, valuable and reliable guns, try to keep the 66. If not possible go with 686, you may change your mind later.

 

[gunlovingirl]

Originally posted by kbm6893:
Can't keep both. Wife would kill me and I don't blame her. There are better things I could be spending $500 on right now than another revolver. if I'm gonna get the 686, the 66 has to go.

An obedient and reasonable hubby! Wifey has a keeper!

For what it's worth, I would keep the 66.

 

[jimmyj]

Hi:
If you decide to sell the Model 66, consider listing it on this Forum.
You might find a member that will trade you a Model 686 for your Model 66.
Jimmy

 

[20nickels]

The thing that glared at me in the OP's post was that he was shooting .38's followed by magnum's in the K frame. This is potentially very detrimental to your gun. If you leave the dirty ring of crud from the shorter .38's and now chamber a magnum you are raising chamber pressures.
I'm sure this is one of the reasons you want to trade it, don't do it. You will regret it. Save the $$ for the 686. Additionally I would get a long barrel 6" to 8" and use it for a range toy while the 66 gets carried.

 

[kbm6893]

Originally posted by 20nickels:
The thing that glared at me in the OP's post was that he was shooting .38's followed by magnum's in the K frame. This is potentially very detrimental to your gun. If you leave the dirty ring of crud from the shorter .38's and now chamber a magnum you are raising chamber pressures.
I'm sure this is one of the reasons you want to trade it, don't do it. You will regret it. Save the $$ for the 686. Additionally I would get a long barrel 6" to 8" and use it for a range toy while the 66 gets carried.

I'm aware of the .38 crud build up in .357 revolvers. Honestly, I bought the 66 used 5 years ago. It looked brand new (and still does), even though it was 20 years old at the time. I fired exactly 12 rounds of 110 grain .357 through it before switching to .38, and haven't shot any .357 since then. This was before i read on here to stay away from the 110 and 125 grain .357 loads. I MIGHT have fired 200 rounds total through this gun since I got it. I want to change that soon, so the question was asked. The remaining 38 rounds of that 110 grain .357 are sitting in the safe, and I have bought 6 boxes of 158 grain .357, but still haven't fired them. I was thinking of getting the 686 so IF I decide to start giving the 66 a real workout, I won't have to worry about cracked forcing cones. Since S&W no longer makes K frame .357's, I wonder how they would honor their lifetime warranty? And i hate the look of 6 or 8 inch revolvers. Just don't look right to me.

The 66 is staying (for now). i really do like it. maybe i'll splurge for a nice set of wood grips for it. The rubber Hogues feel nice, but it just lacks the sexiness it had when I bought it with the wood target grips installed.

 

[remat457]

I wouldn't trade a 66 for a 686.

Are you planning on shooting a LOT of hot 125gr magnum loads?

 

[kbm6893]

Originally posted by remat457:
I wouldn't trade a 66 for a 686.

Are you planning on shooting a LOT of hot 125gr magnum loads?

No. I would like to finish off the remaining 38 rounds of the 110 grain I have. Any other .357 I buy will be 158 grain, but even then, I don't imagine shooting more than a box a year of that through the gun.

 

[g17]

This is a no brainer, I'll take the 686. All of my 66's have long been sold. When it comes to .357, what's the point if you are going to shoot "light loads"? That's what a .38 special was made for.

 

[swman]

If your gonna shoot it, especially 357s a lot, get the 686. Otherwise keep the 66 as a collectible. The 686 also has the same size grip as the 686. I prefer the 686, then again I'm a shooter more than collector.

 

[20nickels]

Originally posted by g17:
This is a no brainer, I'll take the 686. All of my 66's have long been sold. When it comes to .357, what's the point if you are going to shoot "light loads"? That's what a .38 special was made for.

I don't believe it's that black & white. The 66 has investment value, carries easier and can utilize .357 Is it a pickier eater than the 686, yes, of course.
Regarding barrel length, I know it's a personal choice, but the longer sight radius is much nicer on a non-carry gun.

 

[g17]

I'm not trying to stir the pot but I just haven't seen any model 66's selling for more money than 686's that are in comparable condition. If you look at the auction sites the opposite is true and I know that whenever I tried to move out a 66 no dash last year, the best I could get was in the low-mid 400 range compared to one of my 686's which brought nearly $600. Around here, I often see nice model 66's in the high 300 to low 400 range. Am I missing something?

 

[fyimo]

Originally posted by g17:
I'm not trying to stir the pot but I just haven't seen any model 66's selling for more money than 686's that are in comparable condition. If you look at the auction sites the opposite is true and I know that whenever I tried to move out a 66 no dash last year, the best I could get was in the low-mid 400 range compared to one of my 686's which brought nearly $600. Around here, I often see nice model 66's in the high 300 to low 400 range. Am I missing something?

I paid $550 for a no dash 66 with 4 inch barrel 3 months ago and that was a good deal. A model 67 in mint condition goes for around $450. These prices are what I see both on this forum classified section and Gunbroker. The mint 686 no dash with 6 inch barrel I bought in February cost me $500.

 

[milk23]

Keep your 66's

There the best! I've owned them all. The K-frame is the easiest to shoot. Low bore axis compared to the deeper L & N frame. Just shoot .38's like I do. When you needed .357 load up. Just make sure the forcing cone has all the lead out of it before you put those high velocity mag's down the tube. You'll be good to go.