Trigger/cylinder lock up problem.

[flagaman1950]

Hello gentlemen, I have a 625-6 that is about to make me pull my hair out. Everything works fine when dry firing. The problem occurs when I start firing rounds down range. Don't know if it's the recoil or what, but the gun binds up. Cylinder will still advance okay far as I can tell. No binding at the barrel gap and the ejector rod is snug and straight. The trigger just loads up and is almost impossible to pull. I can reach up and push the cylinder a bit and it will rotate on around. Cocked the hammer back single action style would bind it up the same way. Close as I can tell it seems to be in the trigger/hammer contact area. There seemed to be some side play in the trigger so I shimmed it and that seemed to help a bit. But it would still bind.

Dry firing with the side plate off, all clearances appear okay. They look to contact as they should and in the correct sequence. Hand is okay with no binding. Maybe it is recoil related somehow and I just can't see it. I have gave it a good cleaning and short of buying and fitting a new hammer and trigger I am out of ideas.

I have a second 625 just like it hate to, but I may try changing out parts and see if I can find the answer. The other one is one I had worked over for competition a few years back. If someone has any ideas I sure could use them. If not, I'm no worse off than I am now.
Regards,
Flagaman

 

[john traveler]

Time to remove the sideplate and examine the action as you cycle it.
1. Look for metal chips, filings, or burrs developed from impact damage to parts. Inside of rebound slide, tip & tail of cylinder stop, cylinder locking notches, kinked spring on cylinder bolt/thumblatch.
2. A useful trick is to use Magic Marker to color parts and cylcle the action a few times, and look at the contact & friction points.
3. Remove cylinder from crane. Hold thumblatch rearward and manually thumbcock action. Trigger cock action. If it binds when doing this, you have confirmed that the problem is in the lockwork.
4. Partially squeeze and hold trigger just enough to lower cylinder stop to allow cylinder to turn. Manually spin cylinder through a few revolutions. If it binds here, you have confirmed that the problem is in the cylinder, crane, extractor rod, center pin, or or locking bolt.
5. Make up a checklist of things to look for and inspect. When list and results are completed, report back here for next steps.

 

[john traveler]

Since you report action binding only when fired with live ammunition, the following should receive immediate attention:

1. Using feeler gages, check for barrel-to-cylinder gap clearance at all six position of the cylinder. Nominal 0.006" to 0.010" is normal.

2. Using feeler gages, check casehead-to-recoil shield gap clearance. Nominal 0.006" and larger is normal.

3. Examine recoil shield for burr or chipped edges in firing pin hole. This will cause fired primer to extrude into hole and lock up action.

4. If frame mounted firing pin, check fp for mushroomed tip. If hammer mounted striker, check for burred or deformed tip.

5. Examine fired cases and primers for unusual looking fp dent.

 

[HEADKNOCKER]

Check the Endshake also to see If when the gun is actualy fired the cylinder is setting back slightly..
For & Apt movement of the cylinder..
Normal endshake is close to .001"-.002"..

 

[Skip357]

CHECK THE BOTTOM OF THE CYLINDER FOR MARKS ON IT.IF SO CHECK YOUR ENDSHAKE ON CYLINDER.THE CASES ARE PUSHING THE CYLINDER ON TO BARREL

 

[500 Magnum Nut]

Moon clips bent or twisted? Are the cartridges snagging at the recoil shield?

 

[tomcatt51]

Usual problems:
High primers (reloads)
Bent moonclips
Undersize chambers (need to be reamed) not allowing reloaded brass to fully chamber.

 

[valkyriekl]

There might be a little play between the new-style extractor and cylinder that occurs when the hand engages the ratchet and turns the cylinder. This play may allow enough tolerance with an empty cylinder to allow the cylinder to turn, but there may not be enough tolerance when the chambers are loaded to allow the hand to push the ratchet up and then slip past the tooth to achieve full lockup. If this is the case, then you might be able to stone the hand down a bit (to make it slightly narrower) to open up the tolerances.

Also, check under the extractor star for any dirt or fouling as this can cause binding, too (although it doesn't sound like the case, because you report that you can cycle the action fine without live ammo).

 

[Charles]

How does it do with just the fired cases?

 

[epj]

My 25-2 will do the same thing on occassion. The problem lies in the ammo/moonclips.